Test results are in with my TF 100, experts?
- Thread starter AdrenalinPlease
- Start date
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
AdrenalinPlease said:My cya is about 140
Does your test have the long skinny tube with the black dot in it?
Are you testing with the sun to your back? ( or are you using another light source?)
Are you testing with the tube held at waist height and looking down on it?
If the answer to questions above is YES for all three then you should not have much liquid in the tube when you stop - is that accurate? The CYA test is easy to overestimate from what I understand - the faintest blackness in the circle is too much - you need to be sure you can't see the black before you stop.
Also the test only goes up to 100ppm which anything above 100 would register in that area.
You can use a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water to start the test and then double the result to maybe get a better idea (if you did not do that already).
IF the CYA is indeed that high, the best course of action is a lot of water replacement (or in some ares you can get Reverse Osmosis done for $300+)
You can use a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water to start the test and then double the result to maybe get a better idea (if you did not do that already).
IF the CYA is indeed that high, the best course of action is a lot of water replacement (or in some ares you can get Reverse Osmosis done for $300+)
So I how much water should I drain given that my CYA is between 100 and 140?
After I fix my chemistry I need info on other stuff also please;
I just learned that my filter has been running from 12:00am to 6:00am and 7:00am to 7:00pm, for three weeks straight since my pool guy opened the pool and programmed the daytime in addition to the night time. That's going to be a hefty bill!!! I just erased the night time program and left daytime only. Is that sufficient? Too much? I'm assuming that my pool is 24k gallons from the pool papers, the pool guy said it was 30k gallons though.
Lastly, how often should I run the Polaris and for how long?
After I fix my chemistry I need info on other stuff also please;
I just learned that my filter has been running from 12:00am to 6:00am and 7:00am to 7:00pm, for three weeks straight since my pool guy opened the pool and programmed the daytime in addition to the night time. That's going to be a hefty bill!!! I just erased the night time program and left daytime only. Is that sufficient? Too much? I'm assuming that my pool is 24k gallons from the pool papers, the pool guy said it was 30k gallons though.
Lastly, how often should I run the Polaris and for how long?
The pool calculator is telling me that my pool is 30k gallons, thats also what my pool guy said, should I just go with that? Some of the pool papers said 24k so Im assuming
When you say concrete pool, do you mean plaster/gunite? Does it have a liner? If it is a plaster/gunite style pool you need to keep in mind that if the local water table is too high, then you might float your pool if you drain it down too far.AdrenalinPlease said:
If you know the water table is high or if you don't know how high it is, then doing a 1/3 drain, then retesting again cya again is one method. Another method would be to drain from the floor drain while filling from a hose trying to minimize the mixing between the old water and new water.
If you know your water table is low, then you could drain 60% of you pool and refill. Then retest cya.
First do you have a dry well that removes ground water from around the pool and moves it away?
When you dig in your yard, do you hit water fairly soon?
Have you had a lot of rain?
The basic problem is your pool is like a boat, if the ground is saturated with water around the pool, when you drain it, the buoyant forces start increasing and there is a potential to "pop" the pool up and "float" it.
When you dig in your yard, do you hit water fairly soon?
Have you had a lot of rain?
The basic problem is your pool is like a boat, if the ground is saturated with water around the pool, when you drain it, the buoyant forces start increasing and there is a potential to "pop" the pool up and "float" it.
I dont know much about it, I just bought the house and the pool was built in 2006, thats all I know. Currently I am very busy with the house itself and dont have much time with the pool so I am squeezing in some time here and there.
Does the pool have a floor drain?
With a floor drain you can be pretty efficient at adding water at the other end while draining at the floor drain, and not circulating the pool water resulting in less mixing of old and new.
With a floor drain you can be pretty efficient at adding water at the other end while draining at the floor drain, and not circulating the pool water resulting in less mixing of old and new.
It has a main drain and two skimmers and I can select them all independently. I can turn off the skimmers so it will just use the main drain, I have a spa too but I think the spa drain is shut off generally.
Just tested and I have
Ta 120
Ph 7.5
Ch 340
Fc 0
Cc 0
Water is still crystal clear and I wanna swim lol can I?
Ta 120
Ph 7.5
Ch 340
Fc 0
Cc 0
Water is still crystal clear and I wanna swim lol can I?
So what exactly are you currently doing? Are you replacing water?
You did not post your CYA level this time.
Technically it is not safe to swim if your FC is lower than the minimum for your CYA level.
And you should not be letting your FC drop to zero anyway unless you want to deal with a green pool AND high CYA.
You did not post your CYA level this time.
Technically it is not safe to swim if your FC is lower than the minimum for your CYA level.
And you should not be letting your FC drop to zero anyway unless you want to deal with a green pool AND high CYA.
I am replacing some water tomorrow, I poured about a third of a gallon of 12.5cl into the pool tonight.
Today's test results after a minor drain and fill hehe
Fc 1.0
Cc 1.0
Ta 120
Ch 330
Cya 100
Ph 7.5
What should I do?
Fc 1.0
Cc 1.0
Ta 120
Ch 330
Cya 100
Ph 7.5
What should I do?