low ph high alk no chlorine and 2nd yr of having to drain

[JasonLion]

You should bring the PH up to about 7.2, really anywhere from 7.0 to 7.4. Borax is good for that, though soda ash/PH Up will work.

Once you have adjusted the PH you need to bring the FC level back up to shock level, around 18, and hold it there by frequently testing and adding chlorine as needed. It is very important to maintain the FC level, if you keep letting FC go back down to one, or anywhere near there, the algae gets a chance to start growing again and you lose ground.

 

[duraleigh]

K,

I'm not quite sure about your CC test results. After you turn the water back pink with the R-0003, are you saying it takes 14 drops to get it clear again?

Also, could you run an Alkalinity test and CYA test and post those results?

 

[kkuster]

Yes- it took the 14 drops to clear again.

I will add the borax per the pool calculator to get my PH up.

I guess being new to the bleach method I'm not to good at keeping the chlorine level up. Once my PH is up can I do my routine "shock txment" which is 5 bags of burn out from the pool store to bring my FC up? or should I stick with using bleach? My chlorinator has been turned up all the way during all of this.

My TA was 150 and CYA was 60.

 

[Guest]

Shock is a verb, not a noun. (In other words, it's something you do to a pool. not a product that you add.) It does not matter what kind of chlorine you use for shocking, only that you add enough to bring the FC up to the desired level. The only caution I will give is to make sure you only use UNSTABILZED chlorine for shocking (Liquid, cal hypo, or lithium) and not stabilzied chlorine (dichlor or granular trichlor) since they will cause your CYA levels to rise quickly.

Have you computed what 5 bags of "burn out" will bring your FC to? If not how do you know that it is the correct shock level? BTW, Burn Out 35 is 35% lithium and Burn Out Extreme is 47% cal hypo so either can be used instead of bleach for normal chlorination AND shocking. The problems with them is that cal hypo will cause your calcium levels to rise, which may or may not be a problem and lithium is the MOST EXPENSIVE form of chlorine you can buy. If THAT is not a problem for you then PLEASE ADOPT ME!!!!! :-D

 

[JasonLion]

A chlorinator (SWG, Liquidator, or puck feeder) is only good at maintaining a steady FC level. It is not suitable for dealing with problems like the one you have now. It doesn't hurt, might even help a little, but it can't clean things up on it's own. To clean things up you need to be consistently adding chlorine. When the chlorine level is high algae is getting killed and when it is low the algae is growing back. If you don't keep it high till all the algae is killed everything will take much longer and use more chlorine.

Once your current issue is resolved you can go back to the chlorine feeder and it should be fine.

The only issue is that if it is a puck feeder you need to keep in mind that it will be constantly raising the CYA level, and that can cause serious problems in the long run if you don't have enough water replacement. You need to keep an eye on the CYA level and adjust your FC level up to compensate for any increases in the CYA level.

 

[kkuster]

Thanks !! I'm sticking to the bleach- It has taken me this far

 

[Guest]

Thanks !! I'm sticking to the bleach- It has taken me this far

Shucks! Guess I'n not getting adopted!

 

[kkuster]

No -- I've spent to much on pool chemicals in the past to afford to adopt

I just read the May Newsletter BBB for beginners and I give it TEN STARS!!! I've owned my pool 4 years now and this is the 1st time I feel like I even have some idea of what I'm doing and putting in the pool and why I'm putting it in there !!

I also read the Bio on waterbear and what a great thing you do for those kids !! Just wondering when do you sleep? You are a busy man !!

 

[Guest]

Just wondering when do you sleep? You are a busy man !!

I sleep while floating in the pool, where else!? :-D

 

[kkuster]

OK yesterday afternoon I added Borax to raise the PH and then at dusk I added the bleach to get my FC to 18 (got the numbers from pool calc. )

This morning the water looks great and the taylor test shows PH at 7.2 range and chlorine at the 5-10 range. So I thought I was doing good but when I do the TFP drop tests my FC is 1.5 (3 drops to clear) my CC is 8 (16 drops to clear) so my TC would be 9.5.

so, I need to add bleach to bring the 1.5 or the 9.5 to around 18?

Once it stay consistent at 18 and the algae is dead, is that the goal # for the whole season to keep the water clear?

Also, should I be concerned with my CC? I know that usually means to drain the pool some and I did that ALOT last season.

Once again. Thanks for all the help

 

[duraleigh]

K,

Get some more Chlorine back in there....lots of it. You need your FC (1.5) up around 20. That will start to eliminate the CC's ffrom your pool. (you don't need to drain to get rid of them....in fact, draining doesn't help...more FC does)

Keep your FC up around that 20ppm level, brush and vaccum, and let the chlorine do it's work. Your pool will be clear when:

1. Your water looks good

2. CC's are less than 1ppm

3. Your FC will not drop more than about 1ppm overnite.

Then you'll be done and you can lower your FC but get those three goals accomplished first.

 

[kkuster]

OK testing the water every 1/2 hour to keep it at 20. but may have really screwed up... bought my last batch of bleach and didn't realize until I added 5 gallons that it was scented.... Please please please tell me this is not a major deal.

 

[duraleigh]

No big deal.. Can't change it, anyway so don't dwell on it.

You certainly would not want that to be a habit but I doubt you'll even notice it's in there.

Does the pool smell nice?? :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[kkuster]

Yep smells good... I have like 10+ more gallons and my last 1/2 hour test showed 11 chlorine. Is it terrible to use the rest of the scented bleach?

 

[duraleigh]

I personally wouldn't use the next 10 gallons in the pool. I have no idea what compounds they use to create that scent but I think you're pushing your luck. I'd find another use or get the store to trade it out.

Probably the most important principle of BBB is to keep things out of your pool that do you no good but could possibly cause some harm. :lol:

 

[kkuster]

I was able to keep the chlorine at 20 all day yesterday but overnite it feel to 16. I've bumped back to 20 and brushed the pool again, but running out of the R0871 drops. Can I pick up something equivalent somewhere until I can get some more?

 

[duraleigh]

K,

It's not uncommon to be able to find it at a pool store. It's made by Taylor chemistry and the number is identical...R-0871.

 

[kkuster]

At Leslie's would that be DPD Reagent? thanks

 

[Guest]

At Leslie's would that be DPD Reagent? thanks

NO it would be the FAS titrant (not sure what they call it but make sure it's the titrant for the FAS-DPD test. They also sell DPD 1, DPD 2 and DPD 3 reagents for the DPD test, which is a different test. The ONLY one of these that is the same for the FAS-DPD test is DPD 3, which is what you add when testing for CC to see if the water turns pink again.

 

[kkuster]

Hi Guys!! I've had clear water almost all summer with your help and the BBB method. But have been fighting cloudy hazy water the past 2 weeks.

FC 13
CC .5
TC 13.5
PH 7.4
TA 160
CH 170
CYA 151

I've kept my chlorine level at 10 for the past few days. Do I need to bump it up to the 18 range or so to clear the water?

27,000 gallon in ground pool 36X18 8'deep Modular Media Cartridge filter (Nature 2) heater raypak 265

Installed 2003 Indianapolis IN.