- May 30, 2012
- 1,972
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Hi all
This new house came with a new pool and I just want to make sure I am on the right path
27' round above ground pool 47" deep - about 17,000 gal
Hayward DE fileter - model EC-40 with a 1 HP pump (supposedly 40 GPM)
I opened the pool and the water was not too bad. Hazy, some leaves, but no green
I set up the filter, skimmed the leaves out, dumped in the shock that came with the house, and let the filter run
When it got to the point where the filter had to be bumped after an hour, I changed the DE
I had Tri-chlor tabs in a floater for 3 days, and vaccumed daily
I tested and mY TC was 2.0, read this site and learned better, removed the tabs, and added bleach (144 oz 2 days ago and 48 oz last night) asd recommended by tests and the calculator
The water is now clear and I have the following readings
CL: 2.5
Ph: 7.2
AK: 100
Hardness: 280
CYK: 50
The water is clear, but I keep getting dirt in indentations in the bottom (it is not DE, it looks browner)
So, just to make sure I am on the right page here, I should do the following:
1) Add 60 oz of Boarx to bring up the Ph (as per the calculator)
2) Monitor Cl ever day, and add bleach in the evening as required to keep the CL at 2.5 (it appears to be all free CL, as there is no color change when measuring)
3) Vaccuming or running the automatic cleaner will eventualy remove all of the dirt
4) Run the filter for 7 hours per day, in order to turn to pool over once per day (is there a better time to do this - I have a timer)
So my take is, the pool is now safe for swimming, it just needs some minor Ph tweeking and then upkeep.
I guess if the TC drops a lot, or I see evidence of a difference in FC and TC, then it's time to shock
Thanks for all your help
-dave
This new house came with a new pool and I just want to make sure I am on the right path
27' round above ground pool 47" deep - about 17,000 gal
Hayward DE fileter - model EC-40 with a 1 HP pump (supposedly 40 GPM)
I opened the pool and the water was not too bad. Hazy, some leaves, but no green
I set up the filter, skimmed the leaves out, dumped in the shock that came with the house, and let the filter run
When it got to the point where the filter had to be bumped after an hour, I changed the DE
I had Tri-chlor tabs in a floater for 3 days, and vaccumed daily
I tested and mY TC was 2.0, read this site and learned better, removed the tabs, and added bleach (144 oz 2 days ago and 48 oz last night) asd recommended by tests and the calculator
The water is now clear and I have the following readings
CL: 2.5
Ph: 7.2
AK: 100
Hardness: 280
CYK: 50
The water is clear, but I keep getting dirt in indentations in the bottom (it is not DE, it looks browner)
So, just to make sure I am on the right page here, I should do the following:
1) Add 60 oz of Boarx to bring up the Ph (as per the calculator)
2) Monitor Cl ever day, and add bleach in the evening as required to keep the CL at 2.5 (it appears to be all free CL, as there is no color change when measuring)
3) Vaccuming or running the automatic cleaner will eventualy remove all of the dirt
4) Run the filter for 7 hours per day, in order to turn to pool over once per day (is there a better time to do this - I have a timer)
So my take is, the pool is now safe for swimming, it just needs some minor Ph tweeking and then upkeep.
I guess if the TC drops a lot, or I see evidence of a difference in FC and TC, then it's time to shock
Thanks for all your help
-dave