Greetings...
Site has been immense help thus far. Just bought K-2006 test kit and salt test strips from TFTestKits. Yes, was thinking of going with the TF-100 but I have had a K-2005 for years and am used to the testing methods, even though the FC is new with the DPD-FAS. Very good to have that, because my current FC level would have bleached the old K-2005 FC test out. Hooray for good advice!
I had posted previously about switching to SWG but when I read all about the salt deterioration of natural stone around pool, I held off on making the switch until I had the time to use a high quality sealer on my stone coping. So went ahead and purchased additional cal hypo and still have trichlor tabs that I have been using--that should last me half the summer and I will do something by July/August. A little more time to price shop and watch for sales on the SWG--leaning towards CompuPool 36 for my 22.5K gallon pool.
Anyway, so I tested everything and here are my numbers:
FC=18 (just shocked last night after heavy use over weekend and finding dead frog in skimmer last night--used a bit extra just to be on safe side)
CC=0
PH=7.7 (adding gallon MA tonight and then aerating to assist in bring down TA)
TA=150
CH=280
CYA=not exactly sure
OK, I am seriously colorblind, to the point of getting my neighbor to confirm my PH. Usually I guess correct on things but you also start second guessing self too.
So when I test for CYA, my eyes start to play tricks on me a bit. My question is whether you should add until black disappears into faint gray or until you see no semblance of a black or gray dot any longer. I know this is not because of colorblindness, but it is part of me always second guessing and wondering if my eyes are playing tricks on me. If I go to where I do not see black dot (but light shade of gray), my CYA does not even register, meaning more than 100 and just a guess where it is. If I go to where I think I cannot see black or gray or any shade thereof, it hits right at 100. Both are too high I know and as soon as I am back from vacation, I will cease using trichlor tabs until I get that number where it should be. But while on vacation for week, I would rather keep using the trichlor just to be on safe side--a few extra points will not be that big of deal IMHO vs. algae bloom if we get rain or nutty weather while gone--need pool to be swimmable for pet-sitter. Now hopefully I will be working to bring down off of the 100 and not something like 200 or unknown. As we get to July and August, we get enough evaporation here in North Texas that I will get those numbers down quicker than my water bill will like!!! Plus, when I go to SWG hopefully by the end of summer, I will be glad to have some of the CYA in the pool.
So, can anyone shed any light on how I should be accurately reading the CYA test.
Thanks.
Paul
Site has been immense help thus far. Just bought K-2006 test kit and salt test strips from TFTestKits. Yes, was thinking of going with the TF-100 but I have had a K-2005 for years and am used to the testing methods, even though the FC is new with the DPD-FAS. Very good to have that, because my current FC level would have bleached the old K-2005 FC test out. Hooray for good advice!
I had posted previously about switching to SWG but when I read all about the salt deterioration of natural stone around pool, I held off on making the switch until I had the time to use a high quality sealer on my stone coping. So went ahead and purchased additional cal hypo and still have trichlor tabs that I have been using--that should last me half the summer and I will do something by July/August. A little more time to price shop and watch for sales on the SWG--leaning towards CompuPool 36 for my 22.5K gallon pool.
Anyway, so I tested everything and here are my numbers:
FC=18 (just shocked last night after heavy use over weekend and finding dead frog in skimmer last night--used a bit extra just to be on safe side)
CC=0
PH=7.7 (adding gallon MA tonight and then aerating to assist in bring down TA)
TA=150
CH=280
CYA=not exactly sure
OK, I am seriously colorblind, to the point of getting my neighbor to confirm my PH. Usually I guess correct on things but you also start second guessing self too.
So when I test for CYA, my eyes start to play tricks on me a bit. My question is whether you should add until black disappears into faint gray or until you see no semblance of a black or gray dot any longer. I know this is not because of colorblindness, but it is part of me always second guessing and wondering if my eyes are playing tricks on me. If I go to where I do not see black dot (but light shade of gray), my CYA does not even register, meaning more than 100 and just a guess where it is. If I go to where I think I cannot see black or gray or any shade thereof, it hits right at 100. Both are too high I know and as soon as I am back from vacation, I will cease using trichlor tabs until I get that number where it should be. But while on vacation for week, I would rather keep using the trichlor just to be on safe side--a few extra points will not be that big of deal IMHO vs. algae bloom if we get rain or nutty weather while gone--need pool to be swimmable for pet-sitter. Now hopefully I will be working to bring down off of the 100 and not something like 200 or unknown. As we get to July and August, we get enough evaporation here in North Texas that I will get those numbers down quicker than my water bill will like!!! Plus, when I go to SWG hopefully by the end of summer, I will be glad to have some of the CYA in the pool.
So, can anyone shed any light on how I should be accurately reading the CYA test.
Thanks.
Paul