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Thread: How to introduce the BBB chemicals into a Pool

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    How to introduce the BBB chemicals into a Pool

    Good afternoon,

    How do you introduce the various BBB chemicals into your pool? I am a complete newbie to pools, especially to the BBB concept. Do you place the chemicals directly in the pool? How long do you wait before taking another reading?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    20k Gunite/Prism Blue-Pebblesheen, Pentair Tagelus TA-100D Sand Filter, Heliocol Solar Water Heater, 2 bubblers and 2 waterfalls installed 2007, 3hp IntelliFlo VS Pump 011018 installed 2013, Aquabot Turbo T4 RC and Stenner 45MHP10 w/The Liquidator container installed 2012.
    Antigua Spa by Artesian Spas: 325 gl, 52 jets, 6 hp 2 sp & 6 hp 1 sp, Circulation System 24 Hour Whisper Pure, Ozonator, LED digital lighting, The Artesian Pillowfall installed 2007.
    Retired: 2hp Pentair Whisperflow, Legend Platinum w/booster pump, PH Adjuster

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    tagprod's Avatar
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    I just slowly pour bleach around the deeper edges of the pool. For Muriatic Acid I go to the deep end and slowly pour it in front of a return jet - while I'm croutched down just above the water to eliminate it splashing onto the coping or deck. For CYA I just put it in the skimmer, but many here advocate putting it in a skimmer sock. That's really about the only things I have to add - almost forgot - and the Jack's purple stuff which I pour slowly around the deep end of the pool.
    Brian
    20K IG Gunite w/ raised 7ft spillover spa. 1.5 HP Hayward Northstar pump 425 sq ft Hayward cartridge filter, Colorlogic lights AquaRite SWG AquaLogic PS-8 control
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    Over the years, I have had good success with all additives into the skimmer....pump running. The exception is muriatic and I do exactly as tagprod.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    tagprod's Avatar
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    Always add chemicals to water - Never water to chemicals. that's pretty basic, but I hear stories on the news every so often of someone doing it the other way. Also Do not mix or store Chlorine and Acid together.
    Brian
    20K IG Gunite w/ raised 7ft spillover spa. 1.5 HP Hayward Northstar pump 425 sq ft Hayward cartridge filter, Colorlogic lights AquaRite SWG AquaLogic PS-8 control
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    Being a newbie and trying to stay on the SAFE side of chems, I always use EYE PROTECTION when adding Muratic ACID! I believe I have read that here and on PF many times. Safety first.

    Joyce
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  6. Back To Top    #6

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    would there be a problem if you poured diliuted muriatic acid into your skimmer? You think it would even more diluted by the time it reached your pump/filter etc etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by crazycanuck
    would there be a problem if you poured diliuted muriatic acid into your skimmer? You think it would even more diluted by the time it reached your pump/filter etc etc.
    That would surely work but involves more handling of the acid than simply letting it dilute in the return stream.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    When I did the calculations using reasonable flow rates, I found that even slowly pouring acid into the skimmer still overwhelmed the pH buffer and resulted in very low pH (I think it was between 1 and 2 if not mistaken) so I would not add acid to the skimmer and would only add it slowly over a return flow.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    Silly question... how do you get rid of all the containers which the chem's come in?
    20k Gunite/Prism Blue-Pebblesheen, Pentair Tagelus TA-100D Sand Filter, Heliocol Solar Water Heater, 2 bubblers and 2 waterfalls installed 2007, 3hp IntelliFlo VS Pump 011018 installed 2013, Aquabot Turbo T4 RC and Stenner 45MHP10 w/The Liquidator container installed 2012.
    Antigua Spa by Artesian Spas: 325 gl, 52 jets, 6 hp 2 sp & 6 hp 1 sp, Circulation System 24 Hour Whisper Pure, Ozonator, LED digital lighting, The Artesian Pillowfall installed 2007.
    Retired: 2hp Pentair Whisperflow, Legend Platinum w/booster pump, PH Adjuster

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    I may be committing some act of environmental cruelty, but I just throw them in the trash once they are empty.
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    Quote Originally Posted by chem geek
    When I did the calculations using reasonable flow rates, I found that even slowly pouring acid into the skimmer still overwhelmed the pH buffer and resulted in very low pH (I think it was between 1 and 2 if not mistaken) so I would not add acid to the skimmer and would only add it slowly over a return flow.
    sorry chemgeek, can you explain what you mean by this?

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Muriatic Acid is normally 31.45% Hydrochloric Acid and has a pH of -1 (yes, the pH scale can go negative since it's the negative logarithm of hydrogen ion concentration -- so that means a hydrogen ion concentration of 10 moles per liter since -log(10) = -1). A dilution of 10 to 1 with unbuffered water would raise the pH by 1 unit. If I assume a very slow pouring of one cup every 30 seconds (2 cups per minute) and a decent flow rate through the skimmer of 25 gallons per minute (GPM), then that is a dilution ratio of 200 to 1. If the water were unbuffered, it would dilute the acid to a pH of 1.3 (each factor of 10 adds 1 to the pH and the factor of 2 adds 0.3 to the pH). Remember that log(200) = 2.3 where "log" is to the base 10. So, -1 + 2.3 = 1.3 for the resulting pH. Or another way to look at it is that the concentration of hydrogen ion goes from 10 to 10/200 = 0.05 and the pH becomes -log(0.05) = 1.3

    Pool water is buffered so will resist changes in pH, but the strong Muriatic Acid overwhelms this buffer essentially eliminating it in small volumes of water. When I run the calculations assuming a TA of 100 and a CYA of 30, it only helped by 0.2 in pH (at the most) so the resulting pH in buffered pool water is around 1.5 for the slow pouring assumptions above. That's VERY acidic (similar to strong gastric acid). So the pump, filter, gas heater, and any other inline equipment will be exposed to very acidic conditions while you are pouring the acid in the skimmer. There isn't much problem in the general body of pool water as the acid will get significantly diluted rather quickly after it comes out of the returns.

    So I would never pour strong acid into the skimmer. It is true that the exposure would be relatively brief -- just a few minutes -- but the pH is very, very low. I just wouldn't risk it. It's far more harmful than anything else in the skimmer -- chlorine or even Trichlor tabs (the latter with the pump off). Pouring over a return flow in the deep end of the pool will offer the greatest dilution possible in the fastest amount of time. That minimizes exposure to low pH. Pouring it around the pool would probably also be OK except that near the edge of the pool it will be exposed to lower pH -- at least with a return flow it tends to push the acid away from the edge of the pool somewhat. Muriatic Acid, just like chlorinating liquid and bleach, is denser than water so you want to get it diluted quickly so that it doesn't settle at the bottom of the pool (I suspect that acid may mix more readily than chlorinating liquid, even though they both are about equally as dense, but I do not know that for certain).

    Richard
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  13. Back To Top    #13

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    Thanks for the explanation. I thought that the speed the acid was going through the pumps/filter etc would be fast enough but I guess you have a point that it is very acidic. Does it help that i have a main drain when the acid settles to the bottom? My only concern pouring it next to the return jet in the deep end is that my stainless steel pool ladder is right next to the return and that it will increase the corrosion rate.

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    Yes, having the main drain at the bottom of the deep end helps circulation a lot. The main issue with chlorine and possibly acid settling is with pools that don't have a main/floor drain where the circulation at the bottom is very poor (typically above-ground vinyl pools).

    As for the stainless steel, you are right that this is of some concern. If the return flow is away from the ladder, you might be OK. If you want to pour over a different return then that should be good. If it's in the shallow end, you can always brush the bottom after adding the acid, just to be sure it gets mixed well.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    thanks for the advice. I will probably turn the return away and pour slowly. Its interesting you can actually see the acid settle down to the bottom as one big blob when you pour it in.

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    just an interesting observation on how corrosive muriatic acid is. At the hardware store where they sell it, the plastic jug is sealed again with plastic to prevent accidental spillage, but still, the metal shelf where all the acid is kept is all rusted out. I guess that is why home depot doesnt carry it any more.

  17. Back To Top    #17
    I keep a 5 gal bucket near my equip pad used only for pool chemicals. I fill bucket about 85% of pool water and add .5 of chemicals to that bucket and walk around pouring into pool. Repeat with remaining chemicals. I do this for acid, baking soda, clarifier, Borax etc except chlorine, just walk around and pour that around perimeter of pool. I usually brush when I add acid so it will mix quicker and kill two birds with one stone.
    20x40 24,000 gal IG plaster/CircuPool RJ45 SWG/2 skimmer/2sp 2.5hp Jandy Stealth/340sq ft cart filter/600sqftHeliocol Solar Panels/6ft semi circlr tanning ledge/25ft deep end bench/5ft sheer descent/2 lion head water features/1300sqft travertine paver/2 Colorlogic lights/Hayward Navigator/3step 2ft raised bond beam

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    Calcium chloride (calcium increaser) should be added directly to the pool. Distribute it across the surface of the pool.
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  19. Back To Top    #19

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    Could I add BBB chemicals via my Pentair automatic inline chlorinator? (I am thinking mainly of chlorine but what about the others?) Pros/Cons?
    20k Gunite/Prism Blue-Pebblesheen, Pentair Tagelus TA-100D Sand Filter, Heliocol Solar Water Heater, 2 bubblers and 2 waterfalls installed 2007, 3hp IntelliFlo VS Pump 011018 installed 2013, Aquabot Turbo T4 RC and Stenner 45MHP10 w/The Liquidator container installed 2012.
    Antigua Spa by Artesian Spas: 325 gl, 52 jets, 6 hp 2 sp & 6 hp 1 sp, Circulation System 24 Hour Whisper Pure, Ozonator, LED digital lighting, The Artesian Pillowfall installed 2007.
    Retired: 2hp Pentair Whisperflow, Legend Platinum w/booster pump, PH Adjuster

  20. Back To Top    #20
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    The normal inline chlorinator is designed to do one thing, feed trichlor tablets, and shouldn't be used with any other chemical. That can be handy when you are starting up a new plaster pool or when you are going on vacation. Other than that you shouldn't use the inline chlorinator.

    There is a rather rare alternate design that is intended for cal-hypo tablets. That model can only be used with cal-hypo and isn't any use with anything else.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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