Shoot! I had a really interesting image of the "china syndrome" idea in my mind and now, you've messed it up. :lol: :lol:
Scale Problem
- Thread starter texasbrew
- Start date
Shoot! I had a really interesting image of the "china syndrome" idea in my mind and now, you've messed it up. :lol: :lol:
OK, since it might take weeks at a PH of 6.8, I might look for another method to remove the scale. I believe that Jack's makes a product as does Bio Guard for scale removal. I would prefer to be able to add a dose or 2 and then scrub it up. If that is not possible, I may consider just getting all other numbers back in line with a normal salt water pool (including some draining to reduce overall hardness). By doing this it would seem that I could hope to contain scale and live with a few spots (30 or so).
Thanks-
Don
Thanks-
Don
Dave -
One other thing regarding my tests with the TF100. I checked my CYA again and it appears to be 80. However, I turned off my SWG this morning and the chlorine value dropped from 6.5 to 6 at 4:30pm (PH is now 7.0). The pool has been in full sun since 7:30am. There have been no swimmers so far today. Can you tell me if my CYA reading might be low (at 80 black dot completely disappears) or does the CYA just let the chlorine very slowly melt off due to the sun?
Thanks-
Don
One other thing regarding my tests with the TF100. I checked my CYA again and it appears to be 80. However, I turned off my SWG this morning and the chlorine value dropped from 6.5 to 6 at 4:30pm (PH is now 7.0). The pool has been in full sun since 7:30am. There have been no swimmers so far today. Can you tell me if my CYA reading might be low (at 80 black dot completely disappears) or does the CYA just let the chlorine very slowly melt off due to the sun?
Thanks-
Don
Hi, Don,
Your question is not completely clear to me but I think what you're asking is will the FC bleed off despite adequate levels of CYA. The answer is absolutely.
You will lose FC in sunlight regardless of your CYA reading. Chemgeek's got a good handle on the particulars, but CYA only reduces chlorine loss....it doesn't eliminate it ot reduce it to almost nothing.
Your question is not completely clear to me but I think what you're asking is will the FC bleed off despite adequate levels of CYA. The answer is absolutely.
You will lose FC in sunlight regardless of your CYA reading. Chemgeek's got a good handle on the particulars, but CYA only reduces chlorine loss....it doesn't eliminate it ot reduce it to almost nothing.
With CYA of 80 I would expect you to lose something like 1/5 or 1/6 of your FC, so just about 1. The FAS-DPD test is +- one drop or 0.5, so it could have been as much as 7 to 5.5 (though it seems unlikely the two tests would be off in oposite directions). Given the variability in the testing process I don't think you can draw any conclusions from this.
OK, I did some research and found the following from the Jack's Magic website for using their scale removal.
=======================================================================
FAQ’s - Stain Solution #2 (the copper & scale stuff™)
Heaters
Question: The directions on the Stain Solution #2 (the copper & scale stuffâ„¢) say to call if you cannot
isolate the heater. What do I do?
Answer: If the heater cannot be isolated, you cannot use the Stain Solution #2. It will leave you with a
pH in the mid-6's and an alkalinity that will be 20-30; this is what cannot run through the heater. The
alternative is to adjust the pH to 7.2 and the alkalinity to 80 ppm and then add 1 quart of the blue stuff®
(or the purple stuff® if a salt pool) per 10,000 gallons of water. Maintain this chemistry and sequestrant
level for several weeks. This will give you similar results to the Stain Solution #2 treatment; without
bypassing the heater.
=======================================================================
It looks like my choices are to either maintain ph at 6.8 or use Jack's and maintain at 7.2 for several weeks. I suspect that I will be waiting until after October to try one of these as I still have several weeks of swimming left.
Thanks-
Don
=======================================================================
FAQ’s - Stain Solution #2 (the copper & scale stuff™)
Heaters
Question: The directions on the Stain Solution #2 (the copper & scale stuffâ„¢) say to call if you cannot
isolate the heater. What do I do?
Answer: If the heater cannot be isolated, you cannot use the Stain Solution #2. It will leave you with a
pH in the mid-6's and an alkalinity that will be 20-30; this is what cannot run through the heater. The
alternative is to adjust the pH to 7.2 and the alkalinity to 80 ppm and then add 1 quart of the blue stuff®
(or the purple stuff® if a salt pool) per 10,000 gallons of water. Maintain this chemistry and sequestrant
level for several weeks. This will give you similar results to the Stain Solution #2 treatment; without
bypassing the heater.
=======================================================================
It looks like my choices are to either maintain ph at 6.8 or use Jack's and maintain at 7.2 for several weeks. I suspect that I will be waiting until after October to try one of these as I still have several weeks of swimming left.
Thanks-
Don
I had similar issues and posted my problem in this thread some of the responses may be of use.
I lowered my pH under 6.2 for 5 days and scrubbed twice daily for about 45 mins each time until I bent my pole.....
... I still ended up draining and acid washing the pool.
Interestingly my local pool shop was telling me that my CH was in the 240-280 range for months, only when I got my own kit did I find out it was over 650
Good Luck
I lowered my pH under 6.2 for 5 days and scrubbed twice daily for about 45 mins each time until I bent my pole.....
... I still ended up draining and acid washing the pool.
Interestingly my local pool shop was telling me that my CH was in the 240-280 range for months, only when I got my own kit did I find out it was over 650
Good Luck