- Jul 4, 2009
- 21
Okay, I went through stain removal twice before. The second time, Leslie's guided me to attempt it in July, it was a disaster and I ended up finding this forum.
My pool has iron stains. They are worse in the winter, but as the water heats up many of them disappear. It is iron, we have done the vitaminc tests and if we were to add AA as we did in the past, it looks white and new in just a few hours.
So, as I was planning to order my arsenal of AA, PQ60, Purple Stuff (all totaled about $200) and working on my calculated plan of attack, I had a change of heart.
My pool looks 80% good right now. The water and chemistry is 100%. You can see a small leaf on the bottom of the deep end from up on my second story deck and tell if it is a leaf, a bug, or a rock. So we are very happy in the water department. The walls and steps just have the "tea"stains.
Here was my alternate plan based on reading here.
1. Keep the chemistry spot on, but at lower recc' end of ph and FC.
2. Add the sequestrate, Purple Stuff
3. At night when the pump and water motion stop, use the sock method to treat one area of walls at a time with AA. This works, I have tried it long in the past.
4. Use this methodical method over time to pull as much metal off the walls as I can.
5. If it doesn't work or last, the money wasted is half of the other route, and the time wasted is nothing compared to the other route.
My question for the TFP members is:
Is my placing so much importance on the water quality, the algae free state, the finely balanced chemistry , and pool "open for swimming" status that is preventing me from wanting to attempt the normal "full on frontal" metal stain attack, a HEALTHY symptom of someone who has converted to the BBB method(plus SWG) on this forum. Does the thought of messing up your stabilized pool make you think twice before messing with it?
My pool has iron stains. They are worse in the winter, but as the water heats up many of them disappear. It is iron, we have done the vitaminc tests and if we were to add AA as we did in the past, it looks white and new in just a few hours.
So, as I was planning to order my arsenal of AA, PQ60, Purple Stuff (all totaled about $200) and working on my calculated plan of attack, I had a change of heart.
My pool looks 80% good right now. The water and chemistry is 100%. You can see a small leaf on the bottom of the deep end from up on my second story deck and tell if it is a leaf, a bug, or a rock. So we are very happy in the water department. The walls and steps just have the "tea"stains.
Here was my alternate plan based on reading here.
1. Keep the chemistry spot on, but at lower recc' end of ph and FC.
2. Add the sequestrate, Purple Stuff
3. At night when the pump and water motion stop, use the sock method to treat one area of walls at a time with AA. This works, I have tried it long in the past.
4. Use this methodical method over time to pull as much metal off the walls as I can.
5. If it doesn't work or last, the money wasted is half of the other route, and the time wasted is nothing compared to the other route.
My question for the TFP members is:
Is my placing so much importance on the water quality, the algae free state, the finely balanced chemistry , and pool "open for swimming" status that is preventing me from wanting to attempt the normal "full on frontal" metal stain attack, a HEALTHY symptom of someone who has converted to the BBB method(plus SWG) on this forum. Does the thought of messing up your stabilized pool make you think twice before messing with it?