Are you allowing the sample solution to warm up to room temp before doing the test? Cold water can affect the results of the CYA test.
Help on Shock SWG as trying to balance
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Okay, I got the stain off with AA and it came back almost immediately. I'm using Jack's Purple. The PH crept to about 7.3. I push the PH down to 7.0, added more purple, waited but the stain wouldn't lift after 3 days. So I bought a sequest test kit, hit it with AA again, added more purple and the stains have lifted.
So now I have PH at 7.0. Poly 60 warding off algae and the sequest test kit showed 7ppm. So I added 36 more oz of Purple, waited 3 hours and retested but it's still reading at 7ppm. I have 3 qts of purple in for all total for the week (24,100 gal). I am seeing some particles in the water (with the light on) but not too bad. I've got a filter cartridge setup.
Should I put more in more purple or wait to test in the morning? And should the level be the maintenance level at 10-12 or the stain level of 18-20?
Also, how can I tell when I need more poly60? Can I overdo it?
Thanks.
So now I have PH at 7.0. Poly 60 warding off algae and the sequest test kit showed 7ppm. So I added 36 more oz of Purple, waited 3 hours and retested but it's still reading at 7ppm. I have 3 qts of purple in for all total for the week (24,100 gal). I am seeing some particles in the water (with the light on) but not too bad. I've got a filter cartridge setup.
Should I put more in more purple or wait to test in the morning? And should the level be the maintenance level at 10-12 or the stain level of 18-20?
Also, how can I tell when I need more poly60? Can I overdo it?
Thanks.
You can't really over do it on poly 60, though it is expensive so best not to go wild.
You can over do it on sequestrant. The typical way to tell if you need more is to raise the PH and FC levels really slowly and watch for the first sign of stains reappearing. If you catch the stains the instant they start reappearing and lower the PH and add more sequestrant the should lift, but you have to get it right at the start. I've never done it with the test kit.
You can over do it on sequestrant. The typical way to tell if you need more is to raise the PH and FC levels really slowly and watch for the first sign of stains reappearing. If you catch the stains the instant they start reappearing and lower the PH and add more sequestrant the should lift, but you have to get it right at the start. I've never done it with the test kit.
well, the darn stain is back. 8 hours later. it's enough to try your patience. I should have pushed the purple stuff when the sequest kit showed 7ppm. I dumped in another 40oz now, which should bring it to 20ppm. The PH is still around 7.0 or slightly less. I guess we'll see if it lifts.
I put in more squestrant - according to my sequest kit, it was shy 40oz of purple to get it to 18-20 ppm - which is what the kit suggests for stain removal and the stain lifted after about 4 hours.
I rechecked the sequest level and now it shows 11ppm. The test kit (from Jack's) says thta 10-12ppm is the range for maintenance so I would normally think I don't need anymore purple, but since I know that problems are not far away as I try to balance I wonder if I should raise this level higher.
Anyone have any ideas?
I rechecked the sequest level and now it shows 11ppm. The test kit (from Jack's) says thta 10-12ppm is the range for maintenance so I would normally think I don't need anymore purple, but since I know that problems are not far away as I try to balance I wonder if I should raise this level higher.
Anyone have any ideas?
24000 gal, plaster, SWG
With my SWG (aquarite) recommendations taken into account, here are goals. Because I have dissolved iron (stain removed with AA and jack's purple), I have sequest concentration of 12ppm. I must keep PH down below 7.2
FC 4; PH 7.1, TA 110 (aquarite says 80-120), CH 300, CYA 80 (aquarite recommends as best).
Now this gives me a SI of -6.9, which is "suggestive of a problem with plaster pools." So how do I deal with this? What do I change? If I push CH to 350 and TA to 120, I could get to -.58, but that's just barely okay. The PH is the problem. If I raise the PH to 7.2 in additional to CH to 350 and TA to 120, I can get it down to -49, but that's still not great.
Perhaps I misunderstand the metal treatment. It says keep the PH under 7.2 for a week, perhaps it increase it then? If so, to what? 7.5? And what do you think on TA and CH? Go with TA 120 and CH 350 (the maximum)?
With my SWG (aquarite) recommendations taken into account, here are goals. Because I have dissolved iron (stain removed with AA and jack's purple), I have sequest concentration of 12ppm. I must keep PH down below 7.2
FC 4; PH 7.1, TA 110 (aquarite says 80-120), CH 300, CYA 80 (aquarite recommends as best).
Now this gives me a SI of -6.9, which is "suggestive of a problem with plaster pools." So how do I deal with this? What do I change? If I push CH to 350 and TA to 120, I could get to -.58, but that's just barely okay. The PH is the problem. If I raise the PH to 7.2 in additional to CH to 350 and TA to 120, I can get it down to -49, but that's still not great.
Perhaps I misunderstand the metal treatment. It says keep the PH under 7.2 for a week, perhaps it increase it then? If so, to what? 7.5? And what do you think on TA and CH? Go with TA 120 and CH 350 (the maximum)?
You are surely going to want to keep your TA lower than that. Our recommended range with a SWG is 60-80. If your PH is stable, then it doesn't matter. But if your PH is constantly rising, you will want to lower your TA (which is what I expect will happen).
Assuming a water temperature of 70 degrees, I get an SI of -0.44, which is low but not a real problem. Raising CH to 350 is probably a good idea, but not a priority. If you let TA go down naturally, which means slowly, you will be able to raise the PH significantly before TA comes down any significant amount and that will get you closer to in balance.
After a week you should be able to raise the PH slowly into the normal range (7.5 to 7.8). Actually, you probably won't need to raise it, it will most likely go up on it's own. While raising your PH, you need to keep an eye out for stains starting, a sign that you need to raise the sequestrant level. It may take a little while to figure everything out, but eventually you will find a sequestrant level that allows use of the normal PH range without any staining.
Assuming a water temperature of 70 degrees, I get an SI of -0.44, which is low but not a real problem. Raising CH to 350 is probably a good idea, but not a priority. If you let TA go down naturally, which means slowly, you will be able to raise the PH significantly before TA comes down any significant amount and that will get you closer to in balance.
After a week you should be able to raise the PH slowly into the normal range (7.5 to 7.8). Actually, you probably won't need to raise it, it will most likely go up on it's own. While raising your PH, you need to keep an eye out for stains starting, a sign that you need to raise the sequestrant level. It may take a little while to figure everything out, but eventually you will find a sequestrant level that allows use of the normal PH range without any staining.
Thanks. Actually I just checked the TA and it shows 80, so I'll just try to leave it there. So should I just maintain what I have for a week except to let the PH creep slowly up (and keep algae out with Poly 60) - then after the week start pulling up the FC?
And CYA is measuring at about 40 but the water is cloudy so it could be affecting the results. Should adjust CYA only after PH and FC are stablized? Ditto with CH?
And CYA is measuring at about 40 but the water is cloudy so it could be affecting the results. Should adjust CYA only after PH and FC are stablized? Ditto with CH?
You can add CH now if you want. I'd wait on the CYA till things are back to normal.
The pool remains cloudy and its been over 2 weeks. The FC is just registering at about 1.2 and I'm continuing to add chlorine very slowly with the SWG. I just cleaned the cartridge filter - it had some mudlike stuff but not too bad. What can I do about the cloudiness?
Also, although the stain seems to be staying off, there seems to be a little stain in spots that is charcoal/silver colored. Maybe lead pencil colored - like someone rubbed it on certain high spots of the plaster surface.
Also, although the stain seems to be staying off, there seems to be a little stain in spots that is charcoal/silver colored. Maybe lead pencil colored - like someone rubbed it on certain high spots of the plaster surface.
Shurflo Waterguardâ„¢ Garden Hose In-Line Water Filter #RV-210GH-KDF
Also FYI - I bought this Shurflo garden hose filter to prevent any more iron from going in and a few days ago decided to circulate the pool water through it (using the automatic pool cleaner outlet, through the filter and then back in the pool. It's supposed to treat 15,000 gallons so I thought for $20 it was worth going through a couple.
The Waterguardâ„¢ Super Premium Two-Stage Garden Hose In-Line Water Filter uses only the highest quality KDF media and water washed coconut shell carbon to significantly reduce bacteria, chlorine, hydrogen sulfide, water-soluble heavy metals and microorganisms, providing you crisp, clean and safe drinking water. Connects directly to any garden hose for city water filtration.
Also FYI - I bought this Shurflo garden hose filter to prevent any more iron from going in and a few days ago decided to circulate the pool water through it (using the automatic pool cleaner outlet, through the filter and then back in the pool. It's supposed to treat 15,000 gallons so I thought for $20 it was worth going through a couple.
The Waterguardâ„¢ Super Premium Two-Stage Garden Hose In-Line Water Filter uses only the highest quality KDF media and water washed coconut shell carbon to significantly reduce bacteria, chlorine, hydrogen sulfide, water-soluble heavy metals and microorganisms, providing you crisp, clean and safe drinking water. Connects directly to any garden hose for city water filtration.
Try lowering the PH to between 7.0 and 7.2. Your TA is way too high. Lowering the PH will start lowering the TA and it will get the CSI negative, which will clear up any calcium clouding.
I'm skeptical of the filter. By hey, give it a try and tell us if it works.
I'm skeptical of the filter. By hey, give it a try and tell us if it works.
Sorry, I screwed up my numbers. I had CH down twice. TA is 70-80 CH is 210. PH7.6. Thoughts?
And by the way, just for anyone else's info. I spoke to Jack's on sequest level (using the kit) and they said that since the iron will drop out of solution as FC increases (and PH), then I should push the ppm to 18-20 (stain level recommended concentration) so that as the iron drops out, there will be excess sequest to capture that, with the goal to hit 10-12ppm sequest after everything stablizes.
And by the way, just for anyone else's info. I spoke to Jack's on sequest level (using the kit) and they said that since the iron will drop out of solution as FC increases (and PH), then I should push the ppm to 18-20 (stain level recommended concentration) so that as the iron drops out, there will be excess sequest to capture that, with the goal to hit 10-12ppm sequest after everything stablizes.
Alright, your CSI is already negative, which rules out calcium clouding.
The next thing to do is to check up on the filter and make sure it is working correctly. Has the filter pressure been rising? Have you needed to clean/backwash the filter? When you cleaned the filter, was it dirty (did the backwash water come out dirty)?
The next thing to do is to check up on the filter and make sure it is working correctly. Has the filter pressure been rising? Have you needed to clean/backwash the filter? When you cleaned the filter, was it dirty (did the backwash water come out dirty)?
It's a sta-rite cartridge filter. I cleaned it after the AA treatment (first time this year) and it was covered with a brown mucky stuff. It cleaned up well though and the pressure was at normal (clean) pressure. The pressure has risen 10lbs since then (2 weeks ago) and so I cleaned it again yesterday. There was some mud like stuff, but overall I wouldn't have thought it was enough to account for the 10 lb increase, but nevertheless, the pressure is now back at normal (clean pressure). While cleaning, I examined it for any holes and such but didn't see anything.
You don't think it's the purple stuff locked with the iron? And what the heck is floccing agents?