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Thread: Anyone care to tackle the "basics"

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    SeanB's Avatar
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    Anyone care to tackle the "basics"

    I know we have some true chemistry professionals here and it is great to be able to get in depth answers when needed. However, I thought it might also be nice to have a very basic rundown on what parameters should be tested, and why, along with the "normal" ranges for each.

    That way, someone who is either brand new, or just wants the essential information will have a quick place to look.

    If someone wants to put this together, I'll happily post it as a sticky reference for the rest of us. Please check your facts and your spelling.

    TIA.

    SeanB
    TFP Founder

    My Pool: 13K gal IG gunite with 7' spa, Pentair Cartridge Filter, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Polaris 280 Cleaner, TF-100 Test Kit w/ salt test.

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    gonefishin's Avatar
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    High Sean,

    Along with what to check and why...it would also be nice to have an order of what you treat first (and why). Will a low ph effect your other readings? will a high ph? do I treat my TA before ph...etc.

    dan
    33' Aqua-Leader AGP
    Hayward cartridge filter and IntelliFlo VS pump.
    Solar Heat coming ; used to own Aqua-Cal HeatWave 100k (HeatPump)
    Aqua-Rite t-15 SWG

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    I am working on a article for dilutions and test pointers and should have it completed by end of this week start of next.
    Steve
    Echo Canyon II by Artesian Pools, 13.5 KGal AG Round, 22" Artesian Sand Filter 2 hp Artesian pump
    Med Lab Tech for 12 years in E.TN
    Chem testing by Trouble Free Test Kits

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    Here is some general information from the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals regarding pool/spa chemistry parameters.

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    Here is a chart from the Taylor Pool & Spa water testing and treatment guide for raising Alkalinity using baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)

    It refers to the amount of baking soda to add to increase your PPM of TA.

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    Amount of Muriatic Acid to add to lower your PPM of TA.

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    SeanB's Avatar
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    Those are great. Thanks!
    TFP Founder

    My Pool: 13K gal IG gunite with 7' spa, Pentair Cartridge Filter, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Polaris 280 Cleaner, TF-100 Test Kit w/ salt test.

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    To increase Calcium Hardness using Calcium Chloride (77%)..

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    This info is also from the Taylor book..

    If your store bought acid or calcium is a different strength (percentage content) you can adjust the treatment amount as follows:

    For example, by using the calcium chloride table above you determine that you need 24.0 lb of calcium chloride (at 77%) to increase your CH by 100ppm. Your bag of store bought calcium shows 95% not 77%. To determine how much calcium chloride you need follow the following formula.

    Treatment table strength / Store bought label strenth x Table treatment value = Adjusted treatment value

    or

    77 / 95 x 24.0 = 19.5 lb of calcium chloride at 95% strength needed to raise CH by 100ppm

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    Also you can download mwsmith2's BleachCalc and use the More Calcs menu.

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    the BleachCalc download is not working since the server move... hopefully Michael will fix it shortly!

    8200 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, manually chlorinated with 10% liquid, salt added to ~2000, 12" sand filter, 1600gph pump, TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, Chlorine/CYA Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    In my experience, there is no formula as to what should be adjusted first - it's case dependant upon how far out of whack the levels are. However, speaking in general, cl and pH are where I would start - if you have no cl, get some in there ASAP!!!!! and if the pH is <7.0, bring it up STAT (no cl can lead to 'nasties' in the water and is unsanitary - low pH can harm liners and corrode metals in the pool). Usually, the other perameters can be dealt with in a more leisurly fashon, high cya, salt or calcium will require some draining to lower, TA can be lowered using airation, but isn't a quick process

    ****NOTE**** TheOne's post on Taylor's acid chart for lowering TA is not accurate (the chart is fine but the 'slug' method it refers to basicly sucks!) Ask Chemgeek or check it out on PF, the way to lower alkalinity is to reduce the pH to ~ 7.0 and airate the water, so you do use acid, but not the way they recommend *********

    [edit] I forgot to mention that, for me, the most important level to check is the BIR, if that level gets too low the day is shot {BIR = Beer In Refridgerator } [/edit]
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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