Looking for opinions on whether to close or not to close my inground fiberglass pool in Charleston, SC. The primary reason I'm considering closing is to save money on electricity. My pumps cost me $100 a month to run 8 hours a day (need to buy a VS pump). Although hard freezes are rare, we can get spells of a few days below freezing. Also wondering if I should buy a cover and what kind to buy. I'm not worried about safety as my pool has a fence around it, so I just need to keep the leaves and pine needles out. One of my concerns with closing is the possibility that water could get above 60 degrees and with the equipment shut down, there would be no way to raise FC. From what I have read, closing is not even an option until water temp gets below and stays below 60 degrees, so it may come down to if and when that happens.
To close or not to close?
- Thread starter Ericwood73
- Start date
Do you have a cover and water bags or aqua blocks for the pool? That is just a regular tarp? If so, then quite honestly, you can bring the pool to SLAM level, and you will only have to run the pump maybe 2 hours a day at most. You can even get away with about 1 hour a day. If your water is 70 degrees or lower, then this will work out fine and you do not need to worry about closing the pool and clearing the lines. If weather becomes real cold for a few days, then you can have the pump kick on.
You can close your pool with water above 60 degrees, but then it is highly recommended that you use an algaecide (Poly-Quat 60), and the cover is a major part. Solid tarps work at the best as they do not allow any sunlight in. I have closed my pool as early as September 15th all the way until October 15th without any glitches. However, I have a solid tarp.
I would not even clear the lines, just turn on the pump if necessary. There is latent heat in the ground, pool walls, etc. It takes a few days of 32 degrees and lower for water to start freezing where any damage can occur.
You can close your pool with water above 60 degrees, but then it is highly recommended that you use an algaecide (Poly-Quat 60), and the cover is a major part. Solid tarps work at the best as they do not allow any sunlight in. I have closed my pool as early as September 15th all the way until October 15th without any glitches. However, I have a solid tarp.
I would not even clear the lines, just turn on the pump if necessary. There is latent heat in the ground, pool walls, etc. It takes a few days of 32 degrees and lower for water to start freezing where any damage can occur.
I don't have a cover. I'd have to buy one if I close, which is a factor in the decision. Does it basically come down to:
1. If you have a cover, you can cut stop the pump and only run it if needed for freezing because less debris in the pool and no sunlight to allow algae growth if the water warms up.
2. If you don't have a cover, you can cut back the pumps run times, but then you'll need to skim leaves on a regular basis and if the water warms up you need to raise FC to SLAM and run pumps.
So then it is a decision as to whether the cost of a cover offsets the added electricity cost and effort required by 2?
1. If you have a cover, you can cut stop the pump and only run it if needed for freezing because less debris in the pool and no sunlight to allow algae growth if the water warms up.
2. If you don't have a cover, you can cut back the pumps run times, but then you'll need to skim leaves on a regular basis and if the water warms up you need to raise FC to SLAM and run pumps.
So then it is a decision as to whether the cost of a cover offsets the added electricity cost and effort required by 2?
I really think you can get away with leaving everything open (if you close the pool) - remove the return eyeballs, and leave everything open besides the skimmers. You can close the skimmers with Gizzmo's and possibly use some antifreeze (and never turn the pump back on), or you can cover the pool and run pump only as needed and keep pool at SLAM level until it drops down to normal, then bring back up to SLAM. Chlorine will last quite a while.
You have to determine what your time is worth.You will break even on the cover in one year vs. savings on electricity, but you will need to purchase a pump for the water. If you spend hours each week, is it really worth the $150 in cost? If you are extremely careful with the cover, then it will last you a while. Remember that you will also have to pump water off the cover, which takes time if builds up.
You have to determine what your time is worth.You will break even on the cover in one year vs. savings on electricity, but you will need to purchase a pump for the water. If you spend hours each week, is it really worth the $150 in cost? If you are extremely careful with the cover, then it will last you a while. Remember that you will also have to pump water off the cover, which takes time if builds up.
Sounds like maybe rather than spending the money on a cover and closing, put it toward a new VS pump to lower your electric costs year round.
Yes, that is the ultimate game plan. The issue with our friend here is the leaves and keeping the pool clean. Also, pump run time and turnover rate has been debunked. This year, I had my pump running for 4 hours daily. Only turned on longer if the pool need to heat up due to the heat pump. Even for me, it will be a difficult decision as my pump does not run all the time, but next go around there will be an energy efficient VS pump.
A friend of mine in the business stated that by 2022, all pumps will need to be manufactured with savings in mind, which means single speed pumps may go out of existence. Only hearsay at this point, but I believe him.
goody222
Silver Supporter
- Feb 6, 2018
- 184
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Buy a leaf net off Amazon. We use it from late Oct through early Dec here in Virginia. Super easy (and lightweight) to put on and take off