Losing my mind here

touchy

0
Oct 15, 2018
2
Nampa
Switched my jacuzzi with a C5 board from 110v to 220v. The transformer smoked so I changed it out to a 220v transformer. My control panel kept cycling and showing a FLO error. Checked pipes and can not find any air in them. Tested by jumpering pressure switch and pump will turn on for a few seconds and blow the jets, then stops and I can hear pressure build up in heater as water is heating. Then after a couple minutes it repeats. After 24 hours temp was only at 85 degrees. Ideas?
 

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Did you switch the wire locations for the motor/motors when you went to 220v? When I replaced our spa pack and top side control, it came wired as a 120V setup and when I first turned it on with 220V, it would run but everything was running at half power/rpm for the motors. The supplier was useless and I had to follow the instructions on the spa setup guide to change jumper wires/dip switches to match my top side control, voltage and pump/blower hookup.

Here is an example of a Balboa setup sheet so you can see what I mean. I am sure yours is different, but I bet you need to make the same similar changes. If you look at the model number on the top of your spa pack you may be able to find the correct setup sheet for your tub.

https://www.spadepot.com/docs/balboa-VS501Z-configuration-information.pdf

Hope this helps
 
You are 100% correct. I went to buy a whole new controller and as I asked the sales guy if it was setup for 220v he went to change the pump connector and it finally dawned on me that when it was running off 110v that it hadn't mattered where the pump was set because there was only 1 option. When it was wired to 220v now the pump was at that and it was causing it to constantly shut down. Luckily with being incorrectly to 220v for a two and a half days it didn't fry.
Long story short I switched the pump to the 110v connector and all is great now.
 
Glad my description helped and you were able to get your hot tub working. I too was very frustrated when our brand new spa pack was not working properly. I was doubly glad when I realized it was setup for 120V and hooking it to 240V did not fry it. I believe the way they are wired is the circuitry for the controls runs relays for all the motors, pumps, uv etc. so the wrong input voltage does not fry anything, but instead runs it on half power/half sine wave. I didn't care to look into it much more once it was working properly.
 
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