Cloudy and green

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K

Kimvu

0
Oct 9, 2018
16
Magnolia, TX
Hi everyone,

We would appreciate your expert advice. We’ve moved to the Houston area 2 years ago and have had algae problems off and on but now we can’t get rid of it.

What we’ve done:
  1. Corrected low water flow in the pool
  2. replaced pool pump (it died)
  3. replaced DE filter with cartridge (easier to clean and we had to clean it so often)
  4. added another chlorine dispenser
  5. drained the pool 18 inches twice to bring down CYA

Readings from this morning:
Free chlorine: 5.02
Total chlorine: 5.02
pH: 7.8
Alkalinity: 146
Calcium hardness: 57
CYA: 49
Copper: 0.9
Iron: 0.2

Although we have 2 chlorine dispensers, both are dialed off and the last action taken was to add liquid chlorine 3 days ago.

Thanks!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Well, to get rid of algae, you simply need to follow the SLAM Process process.
To do that, you need to invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits because that ColorQ will not cut it (does not read high enough FC and is unreliable).

If by chlorine dispensers you mean tablet feeders, then you are likely to continue to have issues due to the climbing CYA and not maintaining a high enough FC for it according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
 
Thanks for the quick response, Jason.

We had suspected the kit results may not be accurate so had taken it to a pool supply store to test. Anyway, we just purchased the TF-100 kit but it won’t get to us for another 5-7 days.
 
Can I start SLAM effectively with the Taylor K-1515-A test kit?
Click to expand...
The K-1515 will provide the accurate FC/CC readings you need. The only questionable item still pending would be the CYA test as often times the indoor pool store tests are off the mark on that one as well. But if we assume a CYA of 50 is close, then your SLAM FC level would be 20 as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. You can start there for now and re-test the CYA once your TF-100 arrives. Don't forget to lower the pH to about 7.2 before increasing the FC for the SLAM. :wink: Remove any pucks/tabs and stick to just regular bleach for the chlorine. If you have an HEB nearby, they have their own regular Bravo brand that works well at 8.25% strength.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.
Click to expand...
 
Got our TF-100 test kit way earlier than expected.

FC: 6.5
CC: 0.5
Alk: 250
CYA: 80
pH: <7.5

I’m thinking you’ll say drain the pool to lower CYA.

When testing chlorine, the tube went back to pink quickly after it transitioned to clear. I counted the drops when it transitioned to clear. Is that right? Why did the solution go back to pink?
 
When testing chlorine, the tube went back to pink quickly after it transitioned to clear. I counted the drops when it transitioned to clear. Is that right? Why did the solution go back to pink?
Click to expand...

It does that- going from clear back to pink when done.

As to the drops... if you used a 10 mL water sample and you counted the drops, you divided by two, right? 10 drops = 5ppm.

Maddie :flower:
 
I’m thinking you’ll say drain the pool to lower CYA.
Click to expand...
Totally up to you. A lower CYA will require a lower SLAM FC level, but you can SLAM with a CYA of 80 by referencing the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. I noticed you didn't post your CH test from the TF-100. The first (store) post seemed to indicate a very low CH level. You should check that with the TF-100. With a plaster pool, you don't want the CH too low or the plaster could begin to etch away. The CH will probably drop if you do a water exchange as well unless your water supply has very hard water. Something to watch. Before increasing the FC to SLAM level, don't forget to lower the pH to about 7.2. :wink:
 
The pH was at 7.3 before I got the TF-100 test kit. &#55357;&#56873;. How can the very expensive ColorQ be so far off?! CYA was almost half.

Today, we drained the 2 feet. Tomorrow may be the 1st SLAM day.

Should I worry about alkalinity being so high?
 

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How can the very expensive ColorQ be so far off?!
Click to expand...
Because it's sexy and digital. Unsuspecting consumers think it LOOKS like a great product and have no way of knowing it's not really......at least not for the kind of precision testing TFP practices.

Disregard your TA until the SLAM is complete. Easy to adjust later.

Do you have any dark staining on your pool surface? That copper test is extraordinarily high but may just be bad testing.
 
Last night FC was 22. Early this morning, it was 20 but now it’s 23. I haven’t added any chlorine this morning but have scrubbed the walls. I did the measurement twice. The sun is not beating down today but I do not expect FC to go up.
 
I tested 5 times yesterday and each time FC was just above 20, except the last time before I went to sleep. It was 19.5 and I added 1/4 to 1/3 gallon liquid chlorine (more than was called).

This morning FC is 22.5 Unfortunately, I cannot discern any difference in the water cloudiness now as compared to before SLAMing. I am brushing the walls each morning. I can definitely smell the chlorine in the pool. We cleaned the filter cartridges right before we started.

Maybe I’m doing it wrong. When I count the R-0871 drops, I don’t do it one at a time and swirl because I have no patience for that. I do it 5 or 10 at a time and then slow it to 2 when I get to 30 drops. Does that really matter as long as I can count to 50? :)

I expected to need to add more chlorine yesterday and then again overnight. The sun is already out but not hitting the pool yet. The chlorine should be burning off at a higher rate today.
 
Sounds like you're in the portion of a SLAM that we refer to as "POP" - Pool Owner Patience. It can be difficult as the chlorine consumption drops but you want that water clear "now". Stick with it though. The cloudiness is an indication something is still being killed and transitioning in the water. I suspect that chlorine smell confirms that as well. As for your R-0871 drop question, while it is best to be steady and consistent with the drops, for those who are testing a high FC level, I can understand why the first few drops may go a bit quicker until you get towards them final count. But I wouldn't try to rush it too fast as the reagents do need a bit of time to mix and react for best results. Once in a while you can also try using half the water sample (only 5ml). Then each drop = 1. So 20 drops to clear equals an FC of 20. It's not as accurate as the 10ML, but in your case it may give you a bit of a reprieve as the SLAM goes on. Maybe alternate between 10 and 5ML sample sizes. It will save a few drops and give your eyes a break. :crazy:

As for the SLAM itself, since the FC seems to be holding, now you can continue to focus on the smaller details:
- Hiding places for algae; leave no stone unturned.
- Monitoring filter pressure (clean when it increases by 25%)
- Daily brushing, sweeping, vacuuming as needed
 

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