- Aug 11, 2009
- 4
This is my first post. I have maintained my pool myself for over 20 years, but it is defeating me now and I have not received the help I need from the local pool supply store. I hope you can help.
1) The size of your pool in gallons - 28,000
2) The type filter you have - DE
3) If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground) - IG
4) If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass - plaster
5) If you know, tell us the size pump and the size (flow rate) of your filter -
Pump: Hayward Super II 3015EEAZ 1 ½ HP rated 90 gpm @ 60 ft. TDH
Filter: American Products Titan S.S. 60 sq. ft., normal flow 90 gpm, max flow 120 gpm
6) Other: Kreepy Krauly pool sweep, Pool Devil surface cleaner
Pool Location – Concord, CA
The problem:
I am having a devil of a time keeping the chlorine level up in the pool. I have been using four 3†tablets per week; two in a floater in the pool, one in a floater in the spa, and one in an inline leaf trap in the Kreepy Krauly hose. That used to be sufficient. However, now, without extra treatment, the chlorine level goes to zero. To try to combat that I have been socking the pool twice a week with a gallon of liquid swimming pool chlorine (12.5%). A couple of years ago, I used to do that every 10 days. Now the effect lasts for only about two days. Since the chlorine level goes back to zero, I have been trying to prevent algae growth by adding 8 ounces of Leslies Algae Control and 16 ounces of hth AlgaeGuard per week. Two years ago I was using only the Leslie’s Algae Control and that worked well that first year that I used it. But last year it seemed to be less effective and this year I was getting some algae growth even with this treatment, so I added the hth Algae Guard hoping that using a different chemical would add to the effectiveness.
I have a test kit, including a TF CYA test, but I have also taken samples to be tested at Leslie’s Pool Supply. Here is what they found the first time:
pH - 7.3
TA - Total Alkalinity - 110
FC - Free Chlorine - 0
TC - Total Chlorine – 0.5
CH - Calcium Hardness - 450
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) – 60
TDS – 2100
They said that my problem was the free chlorine/total chlorine ratio and that I should shock the pool with 3 lbs of Leslie’s Power Powder Plus, which I did. Of course that shot the chlorine level way up, but the effect only lasted about 4 days. Two weeks later, since I was going on vacation for 6 days and was not going to be there to put the liquid chlorine in the pool, I took another sample to Leslies to see if the problem had been corrected. Here is what they found:
pH - 7.2
TA - Total Alkalinity – 100
FC - Free Chlorine - 0
TC - Total Chlorine – 0.5
CH - Calcium Hardness - 450
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) – 60
TDS – 2200
Phosphates - 500
I should mention that when I tested for CYA with the TF test kit I got a higher value (more like 100) but the test is a judgement call and I assume the people at Leslies are more skilled at doing this test than I am so I imagine their results should be believed. However if having a much higher CYA level than Leslies measured could be the problem, I wanted you to know that I obtained a higher value than they did.
This time they told me to put in 4 lbs of Chlor Brite granular chlorine and fill up my floaters prior to leaving on vacation, which I did, so there were 3 tablets in each floater when I left. I broadcast the Chlor Brite over the pool surface. I also dosed the pool with the Algae Control and AlgaeGuard. When I returned 6 days later, the chlorine level in the pool was zero again, even though there was still the equivalent of about 3 tablets left in the floaters (so about 3 had been consumed). So I socked the pool with a gallon of liquid and am back to the routine of doing that twice a week again. By the time I put the next gallon in, the chlorine level has gone to zero. It looks like a gallon every other day would keep the level up throughout the entire week, but since I am holding the algae at bay with the current routine, I have contined with the 2 gallons per week treatment.
.
How the water looks:
It is generfally crystal clear, but when the chloring level goes to zero I can get green algae starting to show up in a few isolated places, e.g. in the grout in the tile at the water line, on the hose connection for the Pool Devil surface cleaner, and in a couple of places on the plaster where the Kreepy can’t go. I have also noticed what appear to be light pinkish patches on the plaster. These can be brushed off with some effort, and they disappear when the pool is shocked. I don’t know if there is such a thing as pink algae or what this is.
The water in the pool has been there since November 1999 when the pool was replastered. Of course some of it exchanges in the winter when the rains cause the pool to overflow into the runoff drain. The pool also gets 7 minutes of make-up water every day on a fill timer.
Even two gallons of liquid per week of liquid chlorine on top of the tablets does not keep the chlorine level up. The water has always looked good. I added clarifier at the beginning of the season but have not had to do so since. At night with the pool lights on, I don’t see any suspended solids in the water. The Kreepy and the DE filter keep it pretty clean. There is almost zero swimming load on the pool. My wife swims a couple times a week, if that, so I know that is not consuming the chlorine.
Now, if a high CYA level could be the problem, and the answer is to drain and refill the pool, I can’t do that. We live in a drought area and are under strict mandatory water rationing. The amount of water required to drain and refill the pool would incur a severe penalty right now. The rationing may be lifted during the winter, but for now I can’t even consider draining and refilling. So I need a different solution.
We have another longer vacation coming up. Because the chlorine level goes to zero if not attended to constantly (even with full floaters), I am worried that algae may bloom when we are gone. So I am looking for some help as to what to do about this problem. The solutions suggested by Leslies have not worked.
Thank You
1) The size of your pool in gallons - 28,000
2) The type filter you have - DE
3) If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground) - IG
4) If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass - plaster
5) If you know, tell us the size pump and the size (flow rate) of your filter -
Pump: Hayward Super II 3015EEAZ 1 ½ HP rated 90 gpm @ 60 ft. TDH
Filter: American Products Titan S.S. 60 sq. ft., normal flow 90 gpm, max flow 120 gpm
6) Other: Kreepy Krauly pool sweep, Pool Devil surface cleaner
Pool Location – Concord, CA
The problem:
I am having a devil of a time keeping the chlorine level up in the pool. I have been using four 3†tablets per week; two in a floater in the pool, one in a floater in the spa, and one in an inline leaf trap in the Kreepy Krauly hose. That used to be sufficient. However, now, without extra treatment, the chlorine level goes to zero. To try to combat that I have been socking the pool twice a week with a gallon of liquid swimming pool chlorine (12.5%). A couple of years ago, I used to do that every 10 days. Now the effect lasts for only about two days. Since the chlorine level goes back to zero, I have been trying to prevent algae growth by adding 8 ounces of Leslies Algae Control and 16 ounces of hth AlgaeGuard per week. Two years ago I was using only the Leslie’s Algae Control and that worked well that first year that I used it. But last year it seemed to be less effective and this year I was getting some algae growth even with this treatment, so I added the hth Algae Guard hoping that using a different chemical would add to the effectiveness.
I have a test kit, including a TF CYA test, but I have also taken samples to be tested at Leslie’s Pool Supply. Here is what they found the first time:
pH - 7.3
TA - Total Alkalinity - 110
FC - Free Chlorine - 0
TC - Total Chlorine – 0.5
CH - Calcium Hardness - 450
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) – 60
TDS – 2100
They said that my problem was the free chlorine/total chlorine ratio and that I should shock the pool with 3 lbs of Leslie’s Power Powder Plus, which I did. Of course that shot the chlorine level way up, but the effect only lasted about 4 days. Two weeks later, since I was going on vacation for 6 days and was not going to be there to put the liquid chlorine in the pool, I took another sample to Leslies to see if the problem had been corrected. Here is what they found:
pH - 7.2
TA - Total Alkalinity – 100
FC - Free Chlorine - 0
TC - Total Chlorine – 0.5
CH - Calcium Hardness - 450
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) – 60
TDS – 2200
Phosphates - 500
I should mention that when I tested for CYA with the TF test kit I got a higher value (more like 100) but the test is a judgement call and I assume the people at Leslies are more skilled at doing this test than I am so I imagine their results should be believed. However if having a much higher CYA level than Leslies measured could be the problem, I wanted you to know that I obtained a higher value than they did.
This time they told me to put in 4 lbs of Chlor Brite granular chlorine and fill up my floaters prior to leaving on vacation, which I did, so there were 3 tablets in each floater when I left. I broadcast the Chlor Brite over the pool surface. I also dosed the pool with the Algae Control and AlgaeGuard. When I returned 6 days later, the chlorine level in the pool was zero again, even though there was still the equivalent of about 3 tablets left in the floaters (so about 3 had been consumed). So I socked the pool with a gallon of liquid and am back to the routine of doing that twice a week again. By the time I put the next gallon in, the chlorine level has gone to zero. It looks like a gallon every other day would keep the level up throughout the entire week, but since I am holding the algae at bay with the current routine, I have contined with the 2 gallons per week treatment.
.
How the water looks:
It is generfally crystal clear, but when the chloring level goes to zero I can get green algae starting to show up in a few isolated places, e.g. in the grout in the tile at the water line, on the hose connection for the Pool Devil surface cleaner, and in a couple of places on the plaster where the Kreepy can’t go. I have also noticed what appear to be light pinkish patches on the plaster. These can be brushed off with some effort, and they disappear when the pool is shocked. I don’t know if there is such a thing as pink algae or what this is.
The water in the pool has been there since November 1999 when the pool was replastered. Of course some of it exchanges in the winter when the rains cause the pool to overflow into the runoff drain. The pool also gets 7 minutes of make-up water every day on a fill timer.
Even two gallons of liquid per week of liquid chlorine on top of the tablets does not keep the chlorine level up. The water has always looked good. I added clarifier at the beginning of the season but have not had to do so since. At night with the pool lights on, I don’t see any suspended solids in the water. The Kreepy and the DE filter keep it pretty clean. There is almost zero swimming load on the pool. My wife swims a couple times a week, if that, so I know that is not consuming the chlorine.
Now, if a high CYA level could be the problem, and the answer is to drain and refill the pool, I can’t do that. We live in a drought area and are under strict mandatory water rationing. The amount of water required to drain and refill the pool would incur a severe penalty right now. The rationing may be lifted during the winter, but for now I can’t even consider draining and refilling. So I need a different solution.
We have another longer vacation coming up. Because the chlorine level goes to zero if not attended to constantly (even with full floaters), I am worried that algae may bloom when we are gone. So I am looking for some help as to what to do about this problem. The solutions suggested by Leslies have not worked.
Thank You