First, I want to preface this by saying I'm very new to pool keeping and I just found this site today.
I will do my best to outline my steps that have led me where I am now. Also note, I've used the pool calculator for my additions so far. You will likely cringe at some of my decisions so far though - lol.
1st - I've been using test strips. Today, I ordered a Taylor K2006 kit. But, it won't be here for a couple days.
2nd - The pool turned cloudy and within 2 days it was a green above ground POND.
I'd been running at FC ~ 5ppm, i don't think it went down even close to 0 because I was staying on top of it. After I saw the pool start to turn from cloudy to slightly green, I added a bag of granular shock. It only got worse from there and continued getting rapidly darker green.
Based on previous reading, I assumed the problem was either pH or CYA. pH is hard to tell on these test strips, but it didn't seem too bad. So, based on the amount of stabalizer I added at the begining of the season, I assumed my CYA was too high. (I added more than necessary because my test strips because even after a week, my test strips don't seem to register much CYA...)
So, I did a 20-25% water change and added liquid chlorine to what I thought was the appropriate 'shock' level of around 10ppm.
Afterwards, a local pool store water sample resulted:
pH: 8.2, TA: 73, CH: 150, TDS: 400, FC: 9.4, TC: 9.4, CYA:78
Based on the store's result page - they flagged TA as my biggest issue. They wanted a range of 125-150!! Knowing that was higher than what I'd seen online or what my test strips ideal range is, I tried to add sodium bicarbonate of around 3lbs to raise it to 90ish. I also thought my pH was high so I was also trying to add enough Muriatic acid to reduce it to 7.4 (which I think was around 12 fl oz).
This morning, I saw a youtube video on the 'SLAM' technique. This pointed me to the CYA/FC chart and I realized my 'shock' level was WAY too low. So I ran home and added liquid chlorine to reach around 31ppm. I then took in another water sample. This time:
pH: 8.1 TA: 76, CH: 160, FC: 15 (maxed the scale), TC: 15, CYA: 74.
Confused that my levels didn't change much from the night before, I chased TA and pH numbers more by adding more baking soda and double the muriatic acid.
I now realize from reading on this site, that 1) the TA range the store gave me is rediculous!, and 2) pH is inacurate at higher FC levels.
Since this morning I've tried to vacuum and brush as best I could although I can't see the bottom. Assuming FC is being used, I've added 1/2 gallon 10% bleach a couple times today - since I have no test kit yet.
Realizing pH tested levels could be way out of wack now that I'm trying to adjust in high FC system, I went and got water conditioner (that you'd use in aquariums - not sure if this is proper procedure or not...) and dechlorinated a little tub of water and used a test strip. my pH MAY be a little low - like arond 6.8, maybe a tad higher. Again the test strips are hard to read.
A few questions:
What should I do? Stay the course for now?
The pool has gone from green to almost brown today. Does the brown coloring indicate better or worse conditions?
Also - curiosity - at what FC levels does pH testing become inaccurate?
I will do my best to outline my steps that have led me where I am now. Also note, I've used the pool calculator for my additions so far. You will likely cringe at some of my decisions so far though - lol.
1st - I've been using test strips. Today, I ordered a Taylor K2006 kit. But, it won't be here for a couple days.
2nd - The pool turned cloudy and within 2 days it was a green above ground POND.
I'd been running at FC ~ 5ppm, i don't think it went down even close to 0 because I was staying on top of it. After I saw the pool start to turn from cloudy to slightly green, I added a bag of granular shock. It only got worse from there and continued getting rapidly darker green.
Based on previous reading, I assumed the problem was either pH or CYA. pH is hard to tell on these test strips, but it didn't seem too bad. So, based on the amount of stabalizer I added at the begining of the season, I assumed my CYA was too high. (I added more than necessary because my test strips because even after a week, my test strips don't seem to register much CYA...)
So, I did a 20-25% water change and added liquid chlorine to what I thought was the appropriate 'shock' level of around 10ppm.
Afterwards, a local pool store water sample resulted:
pH: 8.2, TA: 73, CH: 150, TDS: 400, FC: 9.4, TC: 9.4, CYA:78
Based on the store's result page - they flagged TA as my biggest issue. They wanted a range of 125-150!! Knowing that was higher than what I'd seen online or what my test strips ideal range is, I tried to add sodium bicarbonate of around 3lbs to raise it to 90ish. I also thought my pH was high so I was also trying to add enough Muriatic acid to reduce it to 7.4 (which I think was around 12 fl oz).
This morning, I saw a youtube video on the 'SLAM' technique. This pointed me to the CYA/FC chart and I realized my 'shock' level was WAY too low. So I ran home and added liquid chlorine to reach around 31ppm. I then took in another water sample. This time:
pH: 8.1 TA: 76, CH: 160, FC: 15 (maxed the scale), TC: 15, CYA: 74.
Confused that my levels didn't change much from the night before, I chased TA and pH numbers more by adding more baking soda and double the muriatic acid.
I now realize from reading on this site, that 1) the TA range the store gave me is rediculous!, and 2) pH is inacurate at higher FC levels.
Since this morning I've tried to vacuum and brush as best I could although I can't see the bottom. Assuming FC is being used, I've added 1/2 gallon 10% bleach a couple times today - since I have no test kit yet.
Realizing pH tested levels could be way out of wack now that I'm trying to adjust in high FC system, I went and got water conditioner (that you'd use in aquariums - not sure if this is proper procedure or not...) and dechlorinated a little tub of water and used a test strip. my pH MAY be a little low - like arond 6.8, maybe a tad higher. Again the test strips are hard to read.
A few questions:
What should I do? Stay the course for now?
The pool has gone from green to almost brown today. Does the brown coloring indicate better or worse conditions?
Also - curiosity - at what FC levels does pH testing become inaccurate?
I'm glad to be here, where people actually know what they are talking about. I'll have to check out the mistakes thread - I'm sure I can contribute on a thread like that! haha.