Mike,
I wrote about my own experience with Orenda Technologies PR-10000 in
this post. I only used it because I had communicated with the current owner of the company, met him, and he gave me a sample to try -- that is, my pool was an experiment. Even though I had > 3000 ppb phosphates in my pool, I did not have algae problems nor anything unusual (except the pool would be very reactive IF the FC/CYA ratio got too low) because I maintained the proper Free Chlorine (FC) level relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level as do tens of thousands of pool owners on this and other related forums. After lowering phosphate levels, there was no apparent change in chlorine demand, which was already a low 1 ppm FC per day, after getting the phosphate level down. I'll continue to monitor next season as well just to be sure.
I suspect that the problems in the pools you have been seeing are related to the implied use of stabilized chlorine products you mentioned, including 3" chlorine tabs which are very likely to be Trichlor and chlorine shock which could be either Cal-Hypo or Dichlor. The following are chemical facts that are independent of concentration of product or of pool size:
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm.
So even with a very low 1 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, continued use of Trichlor as the sole source of chlorine would have the CYA increase by over 100 ppm in 6 months if there were no water dilution. The amount of active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) that kills pathogens and prevents algae growth is proportional to the FC/CYA ratio so as the CYA level climbs, the active chlorine level drops unless you proportionally raise the FC level to compensate. So you can very well have pools with seemingly high FC levels and still get algae because the CYA level is very high. This is all known science since at least 1974 as described in this paper that definitively determined the chlorine/CYA relationship.
If you want to blindly use stabilized chlorine products and not control the CYA level, then you can certainly spend more on algaecides or phosphate removers to try and prevent algae growth, but it is not necessary. (Yes, if you are going to use a phosphate remover, then PR-10000 at
$31/quart or $98/gallon is more cost effective than other brands as it is highly concentrated.) You can instead use unstabilized chlorine to maintain a consistent FC/CYA level or use a hybrid approach with some stabilized chlorine but again monitoring and adjusting the FC/CYA level according to the
Chlorine / CYA Chart.
I have a 16,000 gallon pool shown here and here where I only add 12.5% chlorinating liquid twice a week plus a small amount of acid once a month or so for a total cost of $15 per month. When I first got the pool 7-1/2 years ago, I started out using Trichlor, but in the middle of the second season the water started to turn dull, then cloudy and I couldn't keep up with chlorine demand -- it was a nascent algae bloom. This was in spite of using a PolyQuat/linear quat algaecide combo but only every other week. Even with my very low chlorine usage at the time (the pool wasn't used as frequently) my CYA level had climbed from 30 ppm to 150 ppm in 1-1/2 seasons. Had I not used an algaecide, I would have had problems even sooner, probably before the end of the first season, and had I used it weekly I may have gone another season before problems occurred. After these problems I decided to take matters into my own hands and learned pool water chemistry, ran into
The PoolForum and
PoolSolutions and learned from those sites (started by Ben Powell) about the need to have a certain FC level relative to the CYA level to prevent algae growth. The science confirmed this and now many pool owners benefit including over 17,000 registered users (plus many more unregistered lurkers) here at Trouble Free Pool (TFP).
Richard