I completely neglected our pool over the winter and now it’s a swamp. Dark brown, stuff floating, even calcium build up ring around the tile. Stupid I am! Anyway i have been reading for several days on this site, but had one question. Our pool is in ground gunite with a SWG, but also has a chlorine tab dispenser that we can use when it gets too cold for the SWG work. My vacuum and hose and backwash line should be here Thursday so i can get the major chunks of algae out, and I have already received my k-2006 test kit. That test shows obviously 0 FC. It also shows PH off the scale (it took 18 drops to get the ph color to the desired range). So it seems like i will need to put about 4 gallons of muratic acid in to get the ph down to the right mark. My question is this. My CYA shows 40, which is not on the table for a SWG pool. I have the SWG unhooked and had it unhooked all winter, so I’m really just unsure at this point what my shock level should be. Do I use the normal table since it has not been using the SWG or do I act as if the SWG is working since that will be turned back on once I have it cleared up? If it’s the latter, what should my shock level be to SLAM it since it’s not on the table provided? Thanks!
New member and I let my pool get away from me....
- Thread starter bigwillokc
- Start date
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Use the beach fc/cya for shock level untill after slam when you can dial in the swg.
It's a good idea to post a full set of test results so we can help you manage everything so you don't waste time and money.
Plan on mostly not useing the tab feeder, it will have it's uses for you, such as building your cya during the spring, but use bleach from now on to supplement fc when the water is cold or you need a boost if fc.
Did you test the cya outside on a sunny day with temperate water? We need a good cya test.
Did you get the regular 2006 or the 2006c test kit? If you got the little 2006 it's probably a good idea to get a fas-dpd reagent refill As a slam typically uses up the little bottles.
It's a good idea to post a full set of test results so we can help you manage everything so you don't waste time and money.
Plan on mostly not useing the tab feeder, it will have it's uses for you, such as building your cya during the spring, but use bleach from now on to supplement fc when the water is cold or you need a boost if fc.
Did you test the cya outside on a sunny day with temperate water? We need a good cya test.
Did you get the regular 2006 or the 2006c test kit? If you got the little 2006 it's probably a good idea to get a fas-dpd reagent refill As a slam typically uses up the little bottles.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
^^Correct. When looking at the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, simply treat your pool as a non-SWG pool for now and leave the SWG off. After the SLAM, and when your water temp stays above 60, you should be able to revert back to using the SWG like normal. Nice to have you with us.
^^Correct. When looking at the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, simply treat your pool as a non-SWG pool for now and leave the SWG off. After the SLAM, and when your water temp stays above 60, you should be able to revert back to using the SWG like normal. Nice to have you with us.Ok so ran the tests again with a new sample of water from this afternoon. It's not exactly super warm outside but it is sunny. Here are my results:
FC=0
pH= really high....took 18 drops to bring the color to the normal range
TA=200ppm
CH=400ppm
CYA=60
Now it also appears that my hot tub is not kicking on. Normally at night the anti freeze protection kicks in and it will run pool for 30 minutes then hot tub for 30 minutes as long as its below freezing. That is not happening. If i manually turn the hot tub on with the pentair app, it will move all the valves and shut them off, as well as kick on the heater, but does not appear to really kick much out of the valves. I can see some though. I also noticed that my bubblers are not nearly as tall as they were a couple of days ago, so wondering if maybe my filter has gotten clogged. Anyway, I am ready to start with the cleanup tomorrow, so any help is appreciated!
By the way, my pool is almost 35,000 gallons
FC=0
pH= really high....took 18 drops to bring the color to the normal range
TA=200ppm
CH=400ppm
CYA=60
Now it also appears that my hot tub is not kicking on. Normally at night the anti freeze protection kicks in and it will run pool for 30 minutes then hot tub for 30 minutes as long as its below freezing. That is not happening. If i manually turn the hot tub on with the pentair app, it will move all the valves and shut them off, as well as kick on the heater, but does not appear to really kick much out of the valves. I can see some though. I also noticed that my bubblers are not nearly as tall as they were a couple of days ago, so wondering if maybe my filter has gotten clogged. Anyway, I am ready to start with the cleanup tomorrow, so any help is appreciated!
By the way, my pool is almost 35,000 gallons
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We can come back to the mechanics of your valves, but for now definitely get some bleach in the water. The last thing you need is algae. Since you are at an FC of zero, I'd use bleach to increase to "10" for this evening and keep it elevated through tomorrow as well just to eliminate any possible growth if it's not too late. If your water temp is still chilly, that will help. Yes, use acid to lower that pH back into the mid 7 range. Do it in stages though so that you don't overshoot with acid and go too low. Make sure to use the Poolmath Calculator, and don't add acid and bleach at the exact same time. Give each about 10-15 minutes separation with good water flow.
Later we can help you lower the TA which should also help to stabilizer the pH rising. But one thing at a time.
Later we can help you lower the TA which should also help to stabilizer the pH rising. But one thing at a time.
Oh it’s too late to worry about algae, it’s covered in it. Based on my CYA of 60, it looks like I need to get the FC to 24 for slam. The pool math says 14 if the 121oz bottles of clorox bleach to hit that, but any estimate on how many extras i should buy to keep it there? Will 30 bottles total be enough?
I took my pump apart today and cleaned out the filter cartridges with a hose since i know it will soon be running 24 hours straight.
Since it has had algae for weeks anyway, do I still need to vacuum to waste as some sites suggest? If I do that it’s going to lose a lot of water and I’ll have to retest everything after I add more to replace what went away.
I took my pump apart today and cleaned out the filter cartridges with a hose since i know it will soon be running 24 hours straight.
Since it has had algae for weeks anyway, do I still need to vacuum to waste as some sites suggest? If I do that it’s going to lose a lot of water and I’ll have to retest everything after I add more to replace what went away.
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
There is no way to estimate how much bleach you will need.
You can replace some water before you start if you like but it isn't necessary. If you do that, yes, don't add anything before hand and retest after you refill.
You can replace some water before you start if you like but it isn't necessary. If you do that, yes, don't add anything before hand and retest after you refill.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Cartridges are great for clean pools but can be a pain when you have an algae outbreak. Vac to waste or clean the filters sooner? that decision is yours.
Ok so I added the two gallons of muratic acid (probably needed three but that’s all i had) and it lowered pH to 7.8. Then based on the pool math recommendation I added 14 near-gallon bottles of bleach to raise to shock level of 24. This was around 5pm. Immediately saw a change starting in the water to the milky blue gray color that I’m sure is dead algae. Went to softball practice and came home at 9 and retested. I was surprised that my FC level hasn’t really changed much. I was thinking I would have to be adding every couple of hours, but maybe I still need to add that other gallon or so of MA to lower the pH closer to 7.4?
here are test results as of midnight:
pH - 7.8
FC - 23
CC - 1
TA - 130
CH - 400
CYA - 50
here are test results as of midnight:
pH - 7.8
FC - 23
CC - 1
TA - 130
CH - 400
CYA - 50
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Fc test is inaccurate over 10 fc, hold it at shock level, brush the whole pool till clear
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Be careful. Remember that the pH will read high only because your FC is over 10 - in your case way over 10 for the SLAM. So unless you decide to let the FC fall below 10 on purpose, I would leave the pH alone and simply focus on the FC of 24. Make sure to follow all the other requirements outlined on the SLAM page and simply five it time. It will probably take a few days, but it will work.
I added the MA while it was still at FC 0, and it was still only down to 7.8. Does it change much after adding the bleach? Just figured it wouldn’t and I knew it could have used some more before I started. I will leave it alone and keep at shock level
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Bleach is essentially pH neutral, it does mess with the pH but it's settles out and I don't think you can measure it.
Question. Do i retest the CYA each time i retest the FC and adjust the shock level accordingly, or just keep the FC at the level it suggested from the initial CYA test?
- - - Updated - - -
Also, I am wondering if I can get some help identifying all of my lines. Here is pic and what I know. I know the left set is suction side and the right set is pressure side. I also know on the suction side that the first and third valves are my two skimmers. Not sure what the middle one is. I assume main drain but I have a drain in my spa and another in the pool. Would they be connected? I don’t feel like they are working as I have brushed a lot of debris to the bottom of the spa and it’s stilm there. On the pressure side I know the first one is my circulation jets and the other two are my bubblers. Not sure what the far right line is on each set that has the clear cover.
- - - Updated - - -
Also, I am wondering if I can get some help identifying all of my lines. Here is pic and what I know. I know the left set is suction side and the right set is pressure side. I also know on the suction side that the first and third valves are my two skimmers. Not sure what the middle one is. I assume main drain but I have a drain in my spa and another in the pool. Would they be connected? I don’t feel like they are working as I have brushed a lot of debris to the bottom of the spa and it’s stilm there. On the pressure side I know the first one is my circulation jets and the other two are my bubblers. Not sure what the far right line is on each set that has the clear cover.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just focus on the FC now. You can test the CYA again in a week or so if you find yourself doing a lot of backwashes that may eliminate water and stabilizer.
As for your valves, it may take some trial and error to move one partially and see what happens. Do you have a suction line cleaner? Maybe a dedicated port in the side of the pool somewhere with a flap for a vacuum hose? That could be one. The valves on top look to be your automated valves for the spa. The item to the right with the clear lid are check valves to prevent water flow backwards.
So then by focus on the FC does that mean keep it at 24 since my initial cya was 60?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Correct!
Maintaining that proper SLAM FC level is crucial, along with all the other to-do items on the SLAM page.
I'm guessing the check valves (the ones on the right with the clear covers) go to and from your spa. On the return (pressure) side, you have your main pool returns and bubblers. On the suction side, I'm guessing main drain and 2 skimmers. It would be a good idea to pick up a set of labels and identify everything after you figure out what's what. Good luck with getting the pool cleaned up! You'll be there in no time.
I did some more tinkering last night and you are correct. The check valves are for my spa. The reason I was tinkering with them is because my flow sucks for some reason. Going to start a new thread about that in the other area though. Pool water is looking awesome, just have all of the dead algae dust to clean up, which is a problem since I don’t seem to have good suction to vacuum. I seem to have some air in my pump (it’s got 3-4” of air under the lid), but i didn’t clean my cartridges day before yesterday