We have a store that sells Baquacil stuff but it is WAY expensive. Today is my day off anyway so I will just work on other stuff around the house while doing it. I know what you are saying though, thanks.
Chlorine neutralizer??
- Thread starter inultus
- Start date
We have a store that sells Baquacil stuff but it is WAY expensive. Today is my day off anyway so I will just work on other stuff around the house while doing it. I know what you are saying though, thanks.
Had to still take the pH down a little after the hydrogen peroxide but just re-tested and levels are now:
FC 2.8
CC 0.4
pH 7.6
TA 200
CH 340
I did not re-test CYA as that should not have changed and frankly being an indoor pool I was planning on keeping it at 0 unless I should change that. Also bought all parts to do redo the above grade suction side plumbing. Just waiting on the 3 way valve to come in then I will report back on results of redone plumbing and skimmer action.
I also noticed that there is a slow leak coming off the motor shaft, looks like time for a shaft seal. I think I never noticed it before because I have had the pump on way more than normal while adding chems. I think usually the small bit of water it drips is dried up before I see it. Never replaced a shaft seal but I just watched a video and it looks pretty straightforward. Advice appreciated though.
I'm putting a union between the pump and the rest of the suction side plumbing so if I already have the plumbing done before the shaft seal arrives it should still be easy to disassemble. I took a before picture of suction side, plan on taking an after, how do you put up pics here? Time to find a shaft seal online, thanks again for all the help guys. Happy Halloween.
FC 2.8
CC 0.4
pH 7.6
TA 200
CH 340
I did not re-test CYA as that should not have changed and frankly being an indoor pool I was planning on keeping it at 0 unless I should change that. Also bought all parts to do redo the above grade suction side plumbing. Just waiting on the 3 way valve to come in then I will report back on results of redone plumbing and skimmer action.
I also noticed that there is a slow leak coming off the motor shaft, looks like time for a shaft seal. I think I never noticed it before because I have had the pump on way more than normal while adding chems. I think usually the small bit of water it drips is dried up before I see it. Never replaced a shaft seal but I just watched a video and it looks pretty straightforward. Advice appreciated though.
I'm putting a union between the pump and the rest of the suction side plumbing so if I already have the plumbing done before the shaft seal arrives it should still be easy to disassemble. I took a before picture of suction side, plan on taking an after, how do you put up pics here? Time to find a shaft seal online, thanks again for all the help guys. Happy Halloween.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,487
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
CYA for an indoor pool should be between 20-30ppm. This is to act as a chlorine buffer and reduce harshness. Chlorine with no CYA will be very uncomfortable to swim in. That’s what public pools do and that’s why they smell bad and ruin swim suits.
I keep mine at 20-30. When I started doing that, it was just based on TFP guidance for having some buffer. I didn't realize early-on that CYA slowly dissipates even in an indoor pool. It does though, which works out great for travel. I can plan my CYA boosting for when I'll be away from the house and use pucks for a dual-purpose.
I haven't spent much time on the site lately because summer is my off season. Welcome to TFP - it's great to see another indoor pool owner, and in Michigan no less. Have you posted any pics?
I haven't spent much time on the site lately because summer is my off season. Welcome to TFP - it's great to see another indoor pool owner, and in Michigan no less. Have you posted any pics?
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
I agree, I will probably use the floater with pucks to bring CYA up when I am away as well. First I'm going to monitor chlorine for a while to see at what rate it goes down. Does yours get any sun? The sliding door you see in pic is all the sun this pool gets.
Pic of pool and pic of crappy pump install done by local company (Nosal Pools).
![KIMG0278[1].jpg](https://www.troublefreepool.com/data/attachments/57/57563-0dfbc0436a775a4e6284961a4fbceff5.jpg "KIMG0278[1].jpg")
Cool - thanks! I'm probably basing this just on the color scheme, but it has a 70's look...? My house is very 70's. I like to tell people that at one time Cheryl Tiegs parked her Mustang II in the driveway, walked in wearing platform shoes and did a line of coke on the groovy bathroom counter before taking a swim. Most people seem willing to believe it... 
My pool gets some sun. Not much and not for long though.
I don't use or heat the pool in the summer. FC doesn't change much without sun, bather load and at 68º. I tested with the OTO kit to save powder. I'd lose about 2-3 ppm a week.
That's ah, interesting plumbing for sure!
You mentioned that your equipment is in the basement? So is mine. My plumbing looks much better than that, but after getting a new pump professionally installed last Feb, I heard a high-pitched beep in the house.
A union on my new, nice-looking plumbing had split. Pool water was shooting across the room and fortunately in the direction of a $12, 9-volt water alarm that the previous owners had placed next to the water heaters.
I bought more of those alarms and fresh batteries for them, and also a WiFi-enabled water alarm that will send an alert to my phone if it detects water. Great peace of mind!
My pool gets some sun. Not much and not for long though.
I don't use or heat the pool in the summer. FC doesn't change much without sun, bather load and at 68º. I tested with the OTO kit to save powder. I'd lose about 2-3 ppm a week.
That's ah, interesting plumbing for sure!
You mentioned that your equipment is in the basement? So is mine. My plumbing looks much better than that, but after getting a new pump professionally installed last Feb, I heard a high-pitched beep in the house.
A union on my new, nice-looking plumbing had split. Pool water was shooting across the room and fortunately in the direction of a $12, 9-volt water alarm that the previous owners had placed next to the water heaters.
I bought more of those alarms and fresh batteries for them, and also a WiFi-enabled water alarm that will send an alert to my phone if it detects water. Great peace of mind!
House was built in 1970 although the pool was added later. House does have a working room to room intercom system with a cassette player! The pump and filter are next to the pool, but the pool heater is in the basement. Weird setup. I'm glad you mentioned water alarm because I had a nightmare about having the pool empty into the basement, I will get one of those alarms. Glad that you didn't have a disaster on your hands.
The basement plumbing looks a lot better, I think the pool heater is only 5 years old or so, although they botched the venting installation so the heater is out of operation until my buddy helps me redo the venting and replace the damaged heat exchanger (or depending on the price he can get, replacing the heater altogether).
I have to stop at the hardware store today anyway, how much did you pay for the wi-fi water alarm? Thanks.
The basement plumbing looks a lot better, I think the pool heater is only 5 years old or so, although they botched the venting installation so the heater is out of operation until my buddy helps me redo the venting and replace the damaged heat exchanger (or depending on the price he can get, replacing the heater altogether).
I have to stop at the hardware store today anyway, how much did you pay for the wi-fi water alarm? Thanks.
The D-Link water alarm is $60. I've tested it and it works well and seems to have no trouble staying online. The app is a different story. Several times I've opened the app on my phone to discover that my account isn't logged in, so no alerts will be received. The audible alarm on the sensor is lame, so I'm counting on the 9-volt units to tell me about water if I'm in the house. I make a point to regularly check the app to make sure I'm logged in and it's working.
There's a check valve between the returns and the heater, so I THINK worst-case for me if I suffered a plumbing failure would be the pool would lower to bottom of skimmer, but that's still much more water than I want to have on the floor of the pump room!
There's a check valve between the returns and the heater, so I THINK worst-case for me if I suffered a plumbing failure would be the pool would lower to bottom of skimmer, but that's still much more water than I want to have on the floor of the pump room!
Thanks that's another good idea, while we are working on the pool heater I should put a check valve on the return also. My pump room is also my utility room with my furnace and such so I agree I don't want any water in there, but it's definitely a better option that having a swimming pool for a basement. I just put one of the 9 volt units down there, money well spent.
Another question regarding indoor pools now that it's cold out here. The pool room is pretty much in the middle of the house so it stays fairly warm but not as warm as the rest of the house. I have a separate furnace for the pool room (furnace is really old). I'm wondering once I get the pool heater fixed if I should use the furnace to keep the room (and therefore the water by proxy) warm, or use the pool heater to keep the water warm and not worry about the air temp (when I had the pool heater running it increased the temp and humidity of the room quite a bit but that was when it was warmer outside). I've only lived here a month but I sincerely doubt that I will need to use both the furnace and the pool heater and I'm also hoping that is the case to keep costs down.
I will say there is a fan set on a timer to pull humidity out of the room so that will likely take warm air out of the room also when it runs (fan currently runs half an hour every 2.5 hours). Curious to your opinion.
I will say there is a fan set on a timer to pull humidity out of the room so that will likely take warm air out of the room also when it runs (fan currently runs half an hour every 2.5 hours). Curious to your opinion.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,487
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Indoor pool rooms really need, but are rarely built with, good air handling and humidity control. Ideally you want to recirculate the room air and dehumidify it rather than exhaust it and bring in cold make up air.
You should invest in a good pool bubble cover and reel system. Keeping the pool covered not only helps reduce humidity but it will also allow any pool heater you use to operate a lot more efficiently.
You should invest in a good pool bubble cover and reel system. Keeping the pool covered not only helps reduce humidity but it will also allow any pool heater you use to operate a lot more efficiently.
Wow, our setups are remarkably similar. My pool is also in the center of the house. I have a commercial rooftop HVAC unit that the pool room only shares with 2 other spaces. There's a high-capacity, VS exhaust fan in the pool room ceiling. No timer on it though.
Matt's point about exhausting lots of heated air is a good one. I chose not to swim when the outdoor temps hit single-digits. The windows get too wet, I hate the idea of sending that much heat out and the exhaust fan draws cold air from the floor and chills swimmers.
I keep the pool covered when it's heated, and the fan running while swimming. I heat the pool room as much or more than the rest of the house. That keeps the windows and other surfaces dry, and it's much more comfortable for swimming to not have cold air hit you in the face. The cover makes a huge difference when the pool is warm. It essentially eliminates moisture issues. When the pool isn't heated, I can pull the cover off, and I do. The cover is so ugly and the water is so beautiful...
I would like a high-capacity dehumidifier, but I'm not sure I could ever justify it. I can forego swimming when temps dip really low.
My pool is half the size of yours, but the cost of heating it to 90º was surprisingly reasonable.
Matt's point about exhausting lots of heated air is a good one. I chose not to swim when the outdoor temps hit single-digits. The windows get too wet, I hate the idea of sending that much heat out and the exhaust fan draws cold air from the floor and chills swimmers.
I keep the pool covered when it's heated, and the fan running while swimming. I heat the pool room as much or more than the rest of the house. That keeps the windows and other surfaces dry, and it's much more comfortable for swimming to not have cold air hit you in the face. The cover makes a huge difference when the pool is warm. It essentially eliminates moisture issues. When the pool isn't heated, I can pull the cover off, and I do. The cover is so ugly and the water is so beautiful...
I would like a high-capacity dehumidifier, but I'm not sure I could ever justify it. I can forego swimming when temps dip really low.
My pool is half the size of yours, but the cost of heating it to 90º was surprisingly reasonable.
Mine doesn't even drip. Pretty impressive, especially when you consider that they're cheap to buy.
Well, I redid the suction side plumbing and the skimmer acts exactly as it did before (very low suction), although I can tell my new 3 way valve works better because the pump is trying a lot harder to pull from the skimmer. Also replaced the shaft seal on my pump and that seems to be fine, I will double check for drips tonight. Buddy coming to help me fix the venting on the pool heater tomorrow. Of course because the previous owners ran the heater with bad venting I need to replace the heat exchanger to the tune of $700 just for the part. Yay.
Before I installed my SWG I took a 2+ week vacation and went to Walmart and purchased 16 1/2 gallon bottles of bleach for my pool attendant (1 jug/day). When people looked at me funny I just told them I was cleaning up a crime scene.
One must have fun in life!
One must have fun in life!
Agreed, we must have fun, hopefully with beverages and bikinis involved. I hope I'm not deraling this thread, the people have been very nice and I don't want to break any rules on this great forum. However my friend just took a pic at the airport with Loni Anderson and she looks as great as she did in the 70s, I asked him if she could fill out the 70s theme of my house, haven't heard back.
Pool related though, JoyfulNoise I am on top of getting a bubble cover and I have a manometer. I don't know if you are an HVAC guy at all but since I have both furnace coming into the room and exhaust fan going out do you know of any measurements/calculations that I should do? Cheers.
Pool related though, JoyfulNoise I am on top of getting a bubble cover and I have a manometer. I don't know if you are an HVAC guy at all but since I have both furnace coming into the room and exhaust fan going out do you know of any measurements/calculations that I should do? Cheers.
I agree with you on the cost/benefit of heating when it's cold out. The wife is getting to know the cost and she got a promotion with MSP so that's on her since the kid just learned to swim. I'm more concerned with possible damage to the room (which is brick with metal ceiling). The heat vents in this room are on the floor all around the pool so I think that is good for swimmers' feet (if furnace is turned on) but all that heat will just go out the exhaust, blah.
Well thanks all for the help. Replaced the heat exchanger in the pool heater and that is up and running, also replacing the shaft seal on the pump got rid of the leak it had. Chem levels are fine and currently have the pool at 80 degrees with a solar cover on it. Heating the water brought the air temp of the room up to 68 degrees, which is actually a degree or two warmer than I have the rest of the house set at. We are just getting into cold weather here in Michigan but so far I have had no need to run the furnace that goes specifically to the pool room. Would be great if I never had to use that furnace as it is 30+ years old.
So heating the water with the cover on still made that much difference in air temp?! Good to hear!
What water temp are you shooting for?
What water temp are you shooting for?