Piping Options

[LakiRed]

Hey, I have an issue where my PVC piping come out of the ground is too close to a wall to be able to remove/install a new pump (Hayward Super II). I was hoping for some advice on cutting into and adding to the existing pipe to give myself a little more play. Obviously flexible 2" PVC piping would be best for my purposes, but I'm not sure how well flexible piping would handle the pressure/elements (I'm in Tucson, so heat is the main issue). The other alternative I can think of would be to add a bunch of joints to give myself the extra couple of inches I need. My main concern is that there's very little exposed PVC to work with, as it comes out of the ground and directly joints into the pump, so there isn't a lot of room to mess up before I'm going to have to drill through concrete to get to more pipe to work with. And as a relative novice to this type of stuff, I'm no stranger to messing up. Since a picture paints a thousand words...



That's what I'm working with. Thanks for any advice!

 

[jblizzle]

I might be inclined to dig down and see what is happening under ground. Might be easier to divert a bit under ground to give more room. Obviously would have to be careful about that electric conduit right there.

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Oh, that is concrete ... well that does limit options.

Can you add a picture showing more of the surrounding area?

 

[LakiRed]

Thanks for the response! Here's another shot of the area:



Tried to upload a third image, but hit my quota, it seems. Here's the link to imgur of the 'bird's eye view' shot:

https://i.imgur.com/NJLOVlH.jpg

 

[jblizzle]

FYI, you can change the URL tags to IMG and the picture will show up ... edit your post above to see what I mean.

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What is to the left of the filter? This might require quite the replumbing effort.

 

[LakiRed]

Thanks, below is a full view of the area. Is there really no simple fix here? I was really hoping adding a single inch wouldn't be that challenging a process. My gut instinct when I discovered the problem was to just knock out a small section of the slump block where it was hitting, but I both don't own a mason drill and I was hoping that it would only require adding a small section of piping to get the extra inch(es) I need. All in all, I'm pretty annoyed they decided to pipe it in so close to the dang wall... there's plenty of room for them to have made it super convenient to work on, haha. Instead of course whoever put it in decided to install it completely flush.

 

[jblizzle]

Are you just trying to put a new motor on the pump? Or are you replacing the entire pump?

If you are replacing the entire pump, then you are going to have to replumb the inlet and outlet anyway.
If you have to do this, what I would suggest is move the filter to the left about 4 feet (easy enough to shorten the pipe on the ground to the left and extend the horizontal pipe up against the wall).
Then put the new pump parallel to the wall with the motor toward the filter.
Cut off the pipe coming out of the concrete just below the coupler, add a new coupler and some pipe to continue vertical, a 90 directly toward the wall, and then a 90 to turn into the front of the pump (note you usually want at least a few inches of straight pipe into the pump)
Then replumb between the pump and filter.

 

[LakiRed]

Just the motor needs to be changed.

 

[kadavis]

If you remove the electrical and mount the timer on the wall next to CB panel you can turn the pump around and plumb it in that way. I'm assuming the conduit on the left side of CB panel goes to your pump. There seems to be enough pipe coming out of ground to connect suction, the trick will be replumbing back to filter. You should use the 2" Hi-Temp unions in and out of pump

 

[jblizzle]

So can you get the old motor out?
Or can you not fit the new motor?
There might be shorter motors with a larger diameter available.

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If you remove the electrical and mount the timer on the wall next to CB panel you can turn the pump around and plumb it in that way. I'm assuming the conduit on the left side of CB panel goes to your pump. There seems to be enough pipe coming out of ground to connect suction, the trick will be replumbing back to filter. You should use the 2" Hi-Temp unions in and out of pump

True, you could just put the pump out in front of that valve and then not have to move the filter.
Although that might put it in front of the large electrical panel which may not be to code.

 

[LakiRed]

The original issue was with my chassis. I was given a new one and installed it, but didn't think to check to see that the connector I got from Lowes was longer than the original that had been used, so even though I removed an inch from sawing off the old unit, I gained 1 3/4ths of an inch from the new connector. So I'm 3/4ths of an inch shy from being able to re-install the motor (I guess I technically have two operable motors now, but both are equal size).

 

[jblizzle]

The original issue was with my chassis. I was given a new one and installed it, but didn't think to check to see that the connector I got from Lowes was longer than the original that had been used, so even though I removed an inch from sawing off the old unit, I gained 1 3/4ths of an inch from the new connector. So I'm 3/4ths of an inch shy from being able to re-install the motor (I guess I technically have two operable motors now, but both are equal size).

I wonder if you might be able to remove the rear cap on the motor and get it installed and then put the rear cap back on

 

[LakiRed]

I tried that initially, but wasn't able to make it work.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

I've looked at it, taken a break, looked some more and the only thing I can see is taking the valve loose from the filter and cutting the inlet pipe down by the hose clamp under the timer box leaving as much pipe as you can sticking up and then seeing if you have enough flex to get that motor out if the pump to valve plumbing will give enough.

 

[LakiRed]

So is it definitive that I wouldn't be able to cut the line going down into the ground and use flexible PVC to attach it to the pump? That would give me the play I need, but I don't have any experience with flexible PVC to know whether it would be appropriate for the task.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

I have flexible pipe on the intake of mine and it's held up for over 10 years so far. You should be able to go rigid or flexible without any problem. I'm just trying to see a way for you to replace the motor with the least amount of re-plumbing.
Just cutting that intake might not give you enough flex to get that motor out. That's why I was thinking if you unscrewed the push pull valve you might have enough.

It would be nice to cut the pump out completely and redo it with unions and move the filter over a bit. IMHO that would make it all so simple now and in the future. The problem I couldn't get past last night is your pump to valve plumbing looks like it's all glued, no place to cut and still have anything to glue back onto. So if you chose to move the filter or cut the pump loose you'd need to replace the valve too. Or am I seeing it wrong ??

 

[carlyai]

Are you just trying to put a new motor on the pump? Or are you replacing the entire pump?

If you are replacing the entire pump, then you are going to have to replumb the inlet and outlet anyway.
If you have to do this, what I would suggest is move the filter to the left about 4 feet (easy enough to shorten the pipe on the ground to the left and extend the horizontal pipe up against the wall).
Then put the new pump parallel to the wall with the motor toward the filter.
Cut off the pipe coming out of the concrete just below the coupler, add a new coupler and some pipe to continue vertical, a 90 directly toward the wall, and then a 90 to turn into the front of the pump (note you usually want at least a few inches of straight pipe into the pump)
Then replumb between the pump and filter.

My pump installation manual says you should have a 45 cm straight section plumbing coming into the pump to make the pump work more efficiently and less noise. Seems a straight section of about half a meter or more cuts down water turbulance into the pump.

 

[jblizzle]

I think that is some old school advice that does not take new pump designs into account, like the large strainer baskets. There are members with 90s going directly into the pump with no issues.

 

[carlyai]

I think that is some old school advice that does not take new pump designs into account, like the large strainer baskets. There are members with 90s going directly into the pump with no issues.

Well, you may be right, but it's a brand new 2 HP pump, and it's written in the manufacturer's installation book.
Off course with a smaller length of straight pipe, with bends etc you will not notice it, because you can't compare it to a pump plumbed correctly.
I don't know, but to me it seems reasonable that a pump input with turbulent and cavitating water, would not run as efficiently or as quiet as a pump input with the opposite.
Anyway, I just mention it in case replumbing is needed.

 

[jblizzle]

And pool industry manufacturers always have accurate information in there recommendations ......

Do as you wish. But with a large settling chamber, no turbulence is reaching the impeller to cause noise.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Sooooo have you been able to get the motor out yet and if so how and if not what do you plan to do to get it out ??