There are some concerns about the tarp method.
I would recommend against it at this point.
I would recommend against it at this point.
Chemical recommendations (Newbie)
- Thread starter Autonoz
- Start date
LOL!!! You sure flipped on the tarp method fast. Both of you have a good idea about slowly draining and adding water at the same rate. It will be slow, but I am going to give it a shot. I do not have a hydrant in the vicinity so I will just use a slow submersible and fill with a water hose. Hopefully I can make a dent. Thanks to everyone who responded. I will post my results when I have something positive to report.
I lucked out. My house water is only about 4.5 gpm and I found a pump that when adjusted properly matches the output. I know, very slow, but I have nothing but time. I figure 10 hours a day for 6 days will get me close and 7 will put me over. I know it is not a complete swap since I will be mixing, but it should help some. Am I correct or am I wasting my time?
- May 23, 2015
- 24,481
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It's the best you can do right now. As long as you can match flow rates (keep an eye on it) reasonably well, you should get some decent dilution.
Pleasantly surprised! After replacing approximately 3100 gallons of water in one day, of course this is an estimation of GPM bym y non scientific, non calibrated method of determination. I have seen some promising results.
(CYA 200+ down to 180) originally my dilution test was over the 100 mark and I tried a 3:1 test and got 80, that made my CYA 240. Not sure how accurate that is.
(Calcium hardness 600 don to 570) Not huge, but it shows something is working.
(PH 7.4 up to 7.6) I will leave this alone until it gets to 7.8 unless advised otherwise by someone in the know here.
I will continue this until my numbers are acceptable. It's 0445 and I'm back at it. I purchased a small 640 GPM pond pump and adapted a 1.5" back flush hose and then a garden hose to that to reach my discharge sight. With the lift of the pump and the friction loss in the hose I have the discharge and intake almost dead on.
(CYA 200+ down to 180) originally my dilution test was over the 100 mark and I tried a 3:1 test and got 80, that made my CYA 240. Not sure how accurate that is.
(Calcium hardness 600 don to 570) Not huge, but it shows something is working.
(PH 7.4 up to 7.6) I will leave this alone until it gets to 7.8 unless advised otherwise by someone in the know here.
I will continue this until my numbers are acceptable. It's 0445 and I'm back at it. I purchased a small 640 GPM pond pump and adapted a 1.5" back flush hose and then a garden hose to that to reach my discharge sight. With the lift of the pump and the friction loss in the hose I have the discharge and intake almost dead on.
Two more days of draining and replacing. At approx. 8200 gallons of water.
FC I am maintaining at proper CYA table amount. Overnight test had a .5 loss
PH 7.6
TA 130 down to 110
CH 610 down to 430
CYA 240 down to 160 (80 with dilution test x 2)
Seems to be working. I am going to keep going, starting up again tomorrow
FC I am maintaining at proper CYA table amount. Overnight test had a .5 loss
PH 7.6
TA 130 down to 110
CH 610 down to 430
CYA 240 down to 160 (80 with dilution test x 2)
Seems to be working. I am going to keep going, starting up again tomorrow
- May 23, 2015
- 24,481
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Glad it's working for you. Looks like you're getting good results.
Given the heat and heavy sun exposure we get here, you don't have to go much lower than 80ppm CYA. Managing a pool 80ppm CYA is super easy and it will just naturally degrade from there as long as you don't add anymore. If you have a flat roof at all then you can try to redirect water from it into the pool whenever it rains. The free water helps too.
Given the heat and heavy sun exposure we get here, you don't have to go much lower than 80ppm CYA. Managing a pool 80ppm CYA is super easy and it will just naturally degrade from there as long as you don't add anymore. If you have a flat roof at all then you can try to redirect water from it into the pool whenever it rains. The free water helps too.
Note that the results are best at first but drop off as the CYA goes down.
That's because the water going to waste has progressively less and less CYA.
That's because the water going to waste has progressively less and less CYA.
It's been eight days and approximately 18,200 gallons of water has been changed out. The drop in CYA went slow after the first couple of days, but has worked its way lower. My current readings are;
PH 6.4
TA 90
CH 320
CYA 100
I may go a couple of more days to see if I can get the CYA a little lower, but I am very pleased with the lower PPM's I have achieved at 4GMP. LOL!
PH 6.4
TA 90
CH 320
CYA 100
I may go a couple of more days to see if I can get the CYA a little lower, but I am very pleased with the lower PPM's I have achieved at 4GMP. LOL!