Need Help with aqua troll

[Escalade0709]

Ok. So here is my issue.

My salt generator is not working properly. When I turn it on it starts fine when on auto then after a minute or so the check salt light and inspect cell light come on and do not go off.

So I checked my salt with a test strip and it confirmed it being low about 1500ppm. I added salt a bit to much but now I am over 4000ppm.

Still the lights are on and will not go off. I also check the salt cell and cleaned it with moratic acid and water while it was out and still lights are on and not generating.

So here are my readings when I first turn the machine from off to auto. I am also not receiving a instant salt reading as well.

Readings

0
84
29.8
0.18
75p
-0
AL-7
R 1.45

I thank yu in advance for your time and consideration with helping me.

 

[Escalade0709]

So I called Hayward and they tell me it's either my board or my cell.

Anyone have a suggestion on changing either one? Could a wire have gone bad inside the salt machine itself maybe I should take the front off and see if I see anything noticeable?

 

[Bama Rambler]

How old is the cell?

A lot of pool stores can test the cell to see if it's good.

Here's a Diagnostics Manual for the unit. If you're handy, you can troubleshoot it to see if it's the board or the cell. Aqua Rite's and Aqua-Trol's are notorious for having the current limiter fail on the boards. They're very cheap and relatively easy to replace if that's the problem.

 

[Jamison04]

Your readings looked identical to mine and my salt also tested on Par with where I knew it should be. On mine it turned out to be the cell was bad. But it was also 4 yrs old. I'm fairly confident you just need a new cell.

 

[Escalade0709]

My cell is going into its 3rd season. I have only used it for 2 prior seasons.

 

[Bama Rambler]

2 years old is a little new for the cell to be at the end of it's life, but it could be. I'd try to find a place that can test it and see what they say about it.

 

[Escalade0709]

Ok. I think that is what I will do next.

 

[Aubie99]

I agree with Bama on having the cell checked locally if you can to rule out your cell is/isn't the issue.

As another troubleshooting step, does your generating light come on momentarily, then go off after switching it from off to auto (I have also experienced where it fails to even come on)? If so, I would point you to this previous thread on the forum that saved me a ton of money vs replacing a cell or control board. It would be worth it to have a couple of these current limiters on hand anyway as they are only a couple bucks and seem to be a chronic problem with the control boards on these units after a little run time.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/17562-Aquarite-Not-generating-lights-not-on

 

[Escalade0709]

Yes. When I go from off to auto the generating light comes on for a mite or two then goes off and the other lights come on.

 

[Aubie99]

Yes. When I go from off to auto the generating light comes on for a mite or two then goes off and the other lights come on.

Escalade, I'm betting it is the current limiter on the control board. Been there and done this twice on mine and once for my neighbor who has same system. The replacement part from Digi-Key Corp. is part# is 570-1062-ND, for 2.49 each. Just need a soldering iron and some solder...good tutorials on youtube if you've never done this. One thing I did have to do was cut the prongs off the old current limiter as I could not un-solder the old limiter from the board and then trim/bend the prongs on new one to make it fit up, then solder on new one. An extra set of hands or a clamp holding the new limiter in proper position will help immensely when doing the new soldering job . Hope this helps solve your problem.

 

[Escalade0709]

 

[Escalade0709]

 

[Escalade0709]

Those are pictures of the board and what I think is the limitor.
It doesn't look burnt if cracked of any kind.

 

[Aubie99]

Yep, 2nd picture (round black disc size of quarter to left of the red wire is the inrush current limiter). Mine didn't look bad either until I took it off and the plastic jacket started crumbling to pieces and I was left with a piece of lead in my hand. The only thing I was able to see upon inspection of board was a very small discolored (burnt) spot on the backside of board at one of the solder joints. It was either give it the old college try for $2.50+ shipping or spend $450 with my pool company for new board. It has fixed my problem as stated above 2x on my own system and 1x on same system of my neighbors.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Looks like a cold solder joint on the top lead on the limiter. Might try touching that up with a soldering iron and seeing if that helps.

 

[Escalade0709]

Well we shall see. I ordered 4 of them hopefully fix my problem and have spares lol.
Can you recommend a good test kit. I stink at those color strips I can never tell what is what lol.

 

[Escalade0709]

Looks like a cold solder joint on the top lead on the limiter. Might try touching that up with a soldering iron and seeing if that helps.

What do you mean. Add solder to the top connection?

 

[Escalade0709]

I haven't taken it apart yet but the limiter looks perfect. Just by eyeing it before taking it apart. Could it still be bad with no marks?

 

[Aubie99]

I think what Bama means you could try touching up that top solder connection if its a bad joint to see if this would help. As far as looks, I can't say...I just know that when my system experiences your symptoms, it has always been the current limiter which needed to be replaced. Worse case is you cut off the one that is there and you're out a couple bucks if this doesn't fix the problem.

 

[Escalade0709]

Yea I agree. I will be changing it regardless hoping that is it. I was just curious as to if it could be bad with no signs.