First time pool owner

[cincypool47]

Hello,

I purchased a house last October with an IG pool and just had it opened for the first time on 5/19. When the company came to open the pool the water level was about 6 inches below the skimmer opening, I was told this was due to my use of the sump pump that drained the water off of my safety cover. The company checked for leaks and installed all the necessary components and had the system running off of the main drain. The pump was fully primed and according to the pool technician everything was looking and running great. I was told that there was a thin layer of algae on the bottom of the pool which was clearly visible and that I'd need to brush and shock the pool. I was also told to fill the water level to a third of the way up the skimmer opening, turn off the pump, remove the plug from the skimmer, run a hose down the skimmer opening for a few minutes to flush out any air, and restart the system. Once the pool was filled to to the correct level and I restarted the system I noticed there was barely any circulation. I am consistently getting readings of 22-25 PSI on my pressure gauge on top of my filter and have tried cleaning and rising the cartridge on numerous occasions since Friday. Every time I do I gain circulation and water flow for a few minutes at lower pressure but the pressure slowly builds back up to around 25 PSI and the water circulation stops. I was also told by the pool professional that my plumbing leading to the system may need redone and my ball valve leading into the pump has failed.

I've been running the pump since Friday but the water is very still and is very cloudy. When the pool was first opened I could see clearly down to the bottom but now I cannot see more than 3 feet down. This being my first time with a pool I'm not sure what to do. I called the pool company to ask about having them back out to fix the plumbing but they suggested I wait and "tinker" with the system to see if I can get it running before I spend money of bringing someone out.

As far as chemicals go I went to Costco over the weekend (my local store had a big sale on chemicals) and purchased Clorox shock and 3" tabs, 25lbs of baking soda, and Clorox pH up and down. I also purchased a clorox test strip bottle which has the ability to scan the strip on a phone app and provide readings (although I'm not quite sure how accurate it is.) I also asked the pool company on my call yesterday if I should start with the chemicals knowing that I'm currently having an issue with circulation and they told me to go ahead and do so. I started yesterday afternoon by adding baking soda and pH down and then came back after sunset and added 3 lbs of shock. My readings there morning were as follows. TH = 500 / TC = 0 / FC = 0 / pH = 8.4 / TA = 180 / Stabilizer = 100.

I know that's a lot but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The water is still very cloudy with a slightly green tint and circulation is still very poor. Some questions I have are below;
1. What can I do to lower pressure in my system?
2. Should I keep adding chemicals knowing that the water circulation is poor? Will the water clear up even if the pump/filter system isn't running optimally?
3. How can I get the water to begin holding chlorine?
4. What are the best recommendations for alternatives to expensive pool chemicals?

Thanks!!!!

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP.

Every time I do I gain circulation and water flow for a few minutes at lower pressure but the pressure slowly builds back up to around 25 PSI and the water circulation stops.

I've been running the pump since Friday but the water is very still and is very cloudy.

You have algae! Your filter is trying to so what it needs, but it's overloaded with live algae. You need to "SLAM" (link below). I'll quickly answer your questions:
1. Kill the algae - SLAM
2. Bleach, but in the proper amount. You must have your own (proper) test kit. Please see the TF-100 link below.
3. By killing the algae (SLAM)
4. Recommended chemicals are also found below in my signature. Do not try to adjust everything. It won't help. You need to chemically treat the algae first (SLAM), but to do that you need your own test kit. Understand we do not advocate the consistent use of tabs. They increase CYA (stabilizer), and if that pool store test is correct, those tabs made your CYA that high. The only way to lower CYA is water exchange.

But don't panic too badly yet, and don't go to the pool store for a miracle product. It does not exist. Add nothing but regular bleach right now and remove those 3" tabs. Add about one gallon of bleach each day until you get the proper test kit, then post a full set of numbers and we'll help you get the water clean again. Nice to have you with us.

 

[cincypool47]

So it sounds like the algae is what's clogging the fiter? That makes sense.

I've purchased the test kit you linked to, it should arrive on Friday. In the meantime I'll purchase a dozen or so gallons of liquid chlorine from my local Wal-Mart after work today.

Once the test kit arrives I'll test and post number. Thanks for the help.

 

[Texas Splash]

You're welcome! Nice to hear you got the right kit on its way. Wal-Mart's Great Value bleach will work just fine. Just make sure to get the regular/plain. Nothing scented or splashless. We'll look for your first set of test results in the next couple days.

 

[cincypool47]

Okay, so my test kit arrived a day early and in the meantime I purchased a new cartridge for my filter as I suspected it's been quite some time since it's been changed out. That helped the pressures drop and the water circulation is much better than before. My water is still very cloudy and has a slight tint of green to it. I've been brushing every day, running the robot basically nonstop during the day, stopping to clean it out thoroughly after each 3 hour session, and I've been pulling and washing the new cartridge with a hose twice a day. I am noticing the green algae that is falling off of the cartridge as I'm doing so.

I ran my test and results are below, advice on what to do next is greatly appreciated. I've also consulted the pool calculator but want to verify with the experts here before beginning.

3.6 ppm FC
2.2 ppm CC
60 CYA
pH appears to be through the roof (at least 8.0), I had to add 5 drops to lower to the acceptable range.
TA = 130
CH = 200

Chemicals I have on hand are as follows;
I have 30 lbs of baking soda
10 lbs of Sodium Bisulfate
8 lbs of Cyanuric Acid
1 quart of something called Scale, Metal and Stain control

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Texas Splash]

Alright! So here's what you need to do:
- Lower pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid. Re-test about 20 minutes after each dose with pump running to see if you hit your goal of 7.2.
- Next, with a CYA of 60, your SLAM FC level is "24". So increase that FC right away.

Test your FC as follows: Use the 10 ML water sample with ONE generous scoop of power and mix. Count drops until clear and divide by 2. Example: 24 drops = FC of 12.

Ignore everything else and don't add anything else to your water at this point. Lower the pH then add bleach and maintain it until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. The more consistent you are the better the results. Good luck!

 

[cincypool47]

Very much appreciated, how long should I wait after adding the bleach until testing?

The pool calc is telling me to add 6 gallons, should I add all at once then wait and test?

 

[Texas Splash]

As soon as you confirm the pH is lowered to about 7.2, increase the FC to 24 all at once and don't look back. Add the bleach slowly near the return jet(s). If needed due to low water movement, you can brush/sweep the area just to ensure it's not trying to settle below on the liner.

 

[cincypool47]

So I must admit I'm a bit perplexed. I lowered the pH to the acceptable range and added all of the bleach that was prescribed. I waited about 25 minutes and ran the chlorine test again and my numbers are lower than before.

My new numbers are as follows.

1.0 PPM FC
2.0 PPM CC

I tried retesting again with a new sample and the large sample size (25ml) and got the same response.

How is it possible that I've added chlorine but my numbers have gone down since my last test?

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Just to confirm, you had the pump running, had PH 7.2-7.8, didn't add any acid or other chemicals within 20 minutes of the bleach, then poured about 7 jugs of bleach in, waited 25 minutes with pump running whole time, took a new water sample, and FC was 1.0, correct? (this is possible, others will explain, just want to make sure we got the situation correct)

 

[cincypool47]

That is correct....let me also add that as I walk around the pool the smell of chlorine is very strong so I'm not sure what's up. It's getting much to dark here for me to fiddle with it any more tonight. I'll be up early and at it again before I head to work tomorrow to test levels and back on my lunch break and again after work.

Someone please tell me that after I fix this algae solution I won't have to be working on this thing nonstop anymore like I have been for the past week.

 

[Texas Splash]

as I walk around the pool the smell of chlorine is very strong

This is an indication of the intense oxidation happening between your bleach (chlorine) and whatever is in your water which is why your CCs are becoming elevated. There are a couple possibilities to this happening, some of which include, residual chemicals from the winter closing (i.e. antifreeze, algaecides), and/or your CYA and FC dropping to zero which may have converted the products to ammonia which is extremely challenging. If any other products were added to the water last season or this year, let us know. Otherwise, I'm going to give you some instructions to follow:

So tomorrow be prepared for a battle. You'll need a lot of bleach. If the sock with CYA (stabilizer) is in the water, remove it now and save it for later.

- When you're ready (you'll need to be home for a while to do this), have plenty of bleach handy and increase FC to "10". You need to reach an FC of 10, so re-test right away (like in 5-10 minutes). The amount of bleach required may differ from what the Poolmath calculator states for a clean pool going from 0 - 10 because you have something else in the water that's very aggressive destroying the chlorine as soon as it enters. But you need to increase the FC to 10. Then test it 10 minutes later. If it stayed between 5-10, you can add stabilizer and continue with the SLAM. But if the FC fell quickly in 10 minutes, you need to kick it back up to 10 and repeat this process until it holds for at least 10 minutes between 5-10 ppm of FC. Therein is your battle.

- If you were successful in getting the FC to rise and overcome the rising CCs (contaminants), you will want the CYA at 30 and FC at 12 to continue the SLAM. If for some reason you exhaust your bleach supply and can't seem to clear the aggressive junk in the water, you have a decision:
1 - Buy more bleach and continue
2 - Exchange a good amount of water in hopes of diluting the contaminants so that the bleach will have a better chance.

It doesn't happen to every pool owner, nor does it happen every year, but when it does, it's a tough battle. We (TFP) have no way of knowing how intense the battle between bleach and contaminants will be. All we can do is try to prepare you for what could happen and your options. Many have succeeded in getting the FC to rise to 10 to overcome the rising CCs. Once in a while, a good water exchange is required. But give yourself a fighting chance if you can and have lots of bleach ready. You have a big pool, so you'll need lots of it. Keep us posted.

 

[demilio56]

Cincy,
Hang in there. My story is similar to yours. New house last fall, first opening for me this year. Listen to Texas. He helped me out and I was frustrated and skeptical as you. The methods here do work. Keep reading pool school. Once I got to the bottom of all my problems (my last hang up was needing to rebuild my filter), it's been smooth sailing. I've added about 60 oz of 10% liquid chlorine every other day and muriatic acid once in three weeks. The water has been consistently crystal clear.

Keep at it. You'll feel like an expert in no time.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's my 'story':
Newbie needs advice

 

[BattleOfYakima]

*Thanks for understanding, this post went way too long, I'll keep it brief starting tomorrow*

First, be sure you caught what Texas Splash asked: "If any other products were added to the water last season or this year, let us know."

If you do as Texas Splash instructed, we can help you get this thing as easy to care for as demilio56's pool is now. This TFP system works, but just like it would be for a pool boy or the pool store - getting things on track is the most intensive and expensive part. You can see and smell your pool isn't right - but good news is - TFP can help you get it there as thriftily and safely as possible. I vote you follow it to the letter and report back results frequently as lots of people can check this thread (or even get emailed instantly if they wish) after you post. Be sure to include what you observe - like how you mentioned you smelled the CC, that was good feedback nice job!

There is no way to know how many gallons it will take to get it to FC 10, but as long as you have a safe, cool, and dark place to store extra bleach/liquid chlorine shock (same chemical different strengths) then fill the trunk. Your pool, once totally clean and well cared for, will, *in my non-expert guess* use 3-8 gallons per week of 8.25% during the summer, so you'll quickly go through any extra from your SLAM. If it were me, and the bleach is fresh (link) I were going to follow instructions here to the letter, I'd buy 24 gallons, or however many fit in your vehicle safely. If shopping at Walmart, be sure to see if the garden or grill/pool section has Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid (10% bleach) for 128oz instead of 121oz and sometimes it is even cheaper than the GV 8.25% - just be sure to check the date code.

 

[cincypool47]

I'm definitely not losing the faith here, I'm committed to getting this thing up and running as quickly as possible.

I am not aware of any other products that were added to the pool since I bought the house and moved in after the pool was closed. I personally haven't added anything to the water other than 3" chlorine tabs which have since been removed, baking soda, dry acid and a few pounds of shock treatment early on. Since I came to TFP and began this process I've only added liquid chlorine (10%) and sodium bisulfate to lower pH. The pool was open when I came to look at the house for the first time in Sept and the water was crystal clear. When the pool was opened a week ago today there was a layer of algae that had settled to the bottom of the pool but the water was clear otherwise.

My plan is the head out of work today early and stock up on more bleach at WalMart (24 bottles) and head home to get the process started. My hope, with the long weekend, is that I can get this issues tackled by following this process. I'll post test results and seek advice along the way.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Texas Splash]

Sounds good! We'll watch for your posts and progress.

 

[cincypool47]

Okay, so I'm home now and working on this. Tested once I got home and FC = .2 and CC = 1. pH was good at 7.2 and CYA was still reading around 55.

Just added 3 gallons of bleach per the pool calc and retested 10 minutes later and FC is now 10.2. Will wait another 10 minutes and retest to see if it holds. Still getting a strong bleach smell about 5 minutes after adding the bleach to the pool.

I'll continue to update and keep trying until I can get the free chlorine to hold between 10 and 5. Noting that the CYA is still around 55, once I get the levels to hold should I ramp up the bleach to the prescribed number for a CYA of 55 or should I leave the levels at 10 for the duration of the SLAM?

EDIT: As a side note the water does appear to be much more blue today than yesterday. I an now make out the bottom of the deepest end of the pool, still very very cloudy but much less green than it has been.

Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

If you can get the FC to start holding, then yes ... crank it higher to "24" which is the proper SLAM level for your current CYA. Don't worry about the chlorine smell. That's just the CC's oxidizing out from the water. Maintaining that FC level is the key.

 

[cincypool47]

Good outlook so far, I retested exactly 15 minutes later and am still showing an FC level of 9. So I'll begin with the SLAM and ramp it up to 24, I'll try to retest every hour or so or the time being to make sure the levels are holding up.

Thanks, this seems like real progress!!!

 

[Texas Splash]

Good outlook so far, I retested exactly 15 minutes later and am still showing an FC level of 9.

YES! That's a BIG deal. Good work. This means your bleach is taking over. Very nice. Once you ramp it up to 24, test as frequently as you need to so that the FC stays around 24. You'll see a pattern. No need to test anything else for a while until your water is clear, the FC is maintaining really well, and you start thinking the pool might be ready for the overnight (OCLT) test. Good work!