Newbie Checking in.

[clibka]

Greetings everyone! Been trying to grasp this process, and as I am sure countless people before me have stated ... it's harder than it seems. I have read and tried to follow the advice in "swamp to oasis" and things might be progressing. My question is as follows:

My first CYA test read 0, so I (thought I) followed the calculator and added the requisite amount of stabilizer to get to around the 30-50ppm. The test still reads 0 today. Is there a chance the high chlorine level of the SLAM is interfering with my CYA measurement? Here is the test timeline so far:
2:00 pm 5/22/17:
Added 3 lbs of stabilizer via sock in front of return and in skimmer (Did I misread the pool math calculator? Should I add more?)
Added 5 gallons of Shock per pool math calculator


3:00 pm 5/22/17:
-FC = 34ppm
-CC = 33.6ppm (I might have messed the math up on this test)
-PH = 7.0/7.2
-CYA = 0


8:17 AM 5/23/17
-FC = 31.5ppm
-CC = 1.5 ppm
-CYA = 0
-PH = 8ppm +
-Acid Demand = 10 drops got it to 7.2


2:24 pm 5/23/17
-FC = 27ppm
-CC = 1.5ppm
-CYA = 0
-PH = 8ppm+
-Acid Demand = 4 drops got it to 7.4, 5 drops got it to 7.2
-TA = 100/125ppm

I feel the pool is getting better, but like losing weight ... it is hard to tell when you just stare at it constantly. What it looked like this morning:



I also wondered if I am keeping FC too high? The Chlorine/CYA chart says that for a SWG pool with a CYA of 70 the Shock level should be 28ppm. Since I do not know my CYA at the moment (or I still don't have enough) is the level supposed to be that high? It also says that a CYA of 60* is *Not Recommended, what exactly does that mean if 70 and 80 are sans asterisk?

Thank you in advance!

Cory

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Cory and welcome to TFP! Let me try to get you going on a couple things, then I may have a question or two, or three...or .......
- Let the FC come down. With NO CYA, FC (bleach) is very strong and potent against the liner. Don't exceed an FC of 10 until we figure-out what's going on with that CYA.
- Once the FC drops to 10 (or just under), run another pH to make sure it's around 7.2 before we crank it up again.
- Ignore the min required for a SWG pool right now. During a SLAM, we want the CYA low (if possible) to save on bleach.
- Is the SWG off? During a SLAM, it's best to use just regular bleach. Give the SWG a break if you can.
- What test kit are you using? Please add to your signature.
- How are you testing the CYA? Please describe to ensure accuracy.
- How did you test the FC? Can you explain the sample size, drops, and division math please?

This is just to get us started. They'll be more. But aside from the algae, we want to protect that liner. More to follow. Welcome!

 

[Texas Splash]

Also, according to the Poolmath calculator, it should take about 4.8 lbs of granular stabilizer to increase from 0 - 30 CYA. That's what I got anyways.

 

[clibka]

Hi Cory and welcome to TFP! Let me try to get you going on a couple things, then I may have a question or two, or three...or .......
- Let the FC come down. With NO CYA, FC (bleach) is very strong and potent against the liner. Don't exceed an FC of 10 until we figure-out what's going on with that CYA.
- Once the FC drops to 10 (or just under), run another pH to make sure it's around 7.2 before we crank it up again.
- Ignore the min required for a SWG pool right now. During a SLAM, we want the CYA low (if possible) to save on bleach.
- Is the SWG off? During a SLAM, it's best to use just regular bleach. Give the SWG a break if you can.
- What test kit are you using? Please add to your signature.
- How are you testing the CYA? Please describe to ensure accuracy.
- How did you test the FC? Can you explain the sample size, drops, and division math please?

This is just to get us started. They'll be more. But aside from the algae, we want to protect that liner. More to follow. Welcome!

Thanks Texas! I'll answer them the best I can in the order presented!

-SWG is off (And it was reporting low salt, so hopefully it wasn't making any to begin with?)
-Taylor k-2006 test kit
-Filling the small bottle elbow length down-ish, away from the returns to the 7 mark, then letting it warm to room temp-ish then adding the white cap to the 14 line, shaking for 30seconds, then filling the small side of the comparator until I couldn't see the dot (I could always see the dot)
-Filling the comparator in the same method as above to the 25 line, adding two scoops of the powder, then dropping the yellow cap (don't know the numbers off hand, but using the correct one as described in the lid) and counting/swirling until it runs clear. Then Multiply the # of drops by .5 from the first step to arrive at FC.

Thank you!!

-Cory

 

[Texas Splash]

CYA good.

Ahhh! Okay, for the FC, do it this way: 10 ML water sample and ONE heaping scoop of powder. Mix and count drops until clear, then divide by 2. Example: 24 drops = FC of 12.

 

[clibka]

Ok, I lied ... That is how I was doing it, 10ml then x .5 ... But for good measure I went ahead and ran one more test with your exact metrics.

FC = 24.5ppm (49 drops and one heaping powder)
CC = 1ppm

CYA good.

Ahhh! Okay, for the FC, do it this way: 10 ML water sample and ONE heaping scoop of powder. Mix and count drops until clear, then divide by 2. Example: 24 drops = FC of 12.

 

[Texas Splash]

Ok, I lied ... That is how I was doing it, 10ml

Rats! I was hoping that was one issue solved. Well, at least you're holding FC so that's good. But it's still too high - basically doubled. So don't add anymore bleach for now. Let the FC drop to about 9-10 just long enough to validate your pH one more time to ensure the pH is at about 7.2.

While you're waiting, there's the CYA. When you look at the dot, does the water sample show ANY cloudiness at all? Hopefully there's a little fog? In any case, you could add another 1.8 lbs or so of granular stabilizer to get to a CYA of 30. Continue with the sock method and squeeze often.

Once the FC drops so you can validate the pH, then we'll treat your pool with an FC SLAM/Shock level of "12". That's all you need based on the low CYA. Anything higher is just a waste of bleach and potential problem for your liner.

Now other things... do you know the history on the sand in the filter? If not, or if it's been a couple seasons since you opened it up, you might want to knockout a deep clean as seen on the TFP Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter page. Also make sure to backwash only when pressure increases by about 25% based on your clean/starting pressure. Don't forget to follow all the hints and steps on the SLAM page (link below). Brush, sweep, & more brushing.

Oh, I should've asked this first but forgot ..... since this is probably your season-opening, was the pool closed with any specific chemicals or algaecides that you know of? Any antifreeze or other products other than bleach? That could be important later.

 

[clibka]

Man, I love the interaction here. What an awesome forum.

-So I checked my PH prior to starting the SLAM and it was 7.2/7.4-ish Right in-between the two colors.

-The water for the CYA test is crystal clear. No Cloudiness what-so-ever.

-The sand has not been touched by me outside of backwashes, The pool is going on its 4th season this year, and was put in by the previous home owner. I am happy to do a deep clean if that is recommended (I planned on it at some point, but didn't know if I should do it in the middle of the SLAM)

-I've been brushing constantly and running a sweeper even more frequently

-I don't know exactly what the pool company used for pool closing other than I did see some pink in the lines when I opened everything, which I assume was RV antifreeze ...

 

[Texas Splash]

Yeah, I suspect the same (RV antifreeze) so that's fine. Your CC level is low which is good. PH should be fine then as well. So that leaves the FC and CYA. Lets' do this for now ... continue to let the FC drop to "12". 12 will be the magic SLAM FC level. Go ahead and add that remaining stabilizer. If by tomorrow evening you still don't show anything, then we'll have to dig deeper into our bag of tricks. Stabilizer is usually good about increasing unless there's ammonia, but I see no indications of that in your water while retaining FC so well and relatively no CC to show something odd trying to get burned-off. SO just do that for now and we'll follow-up tomorrow with new FC, CC, and CYA readings.

Doing a deep clean won't hurt the SLAM. In fact, even though you'll stop things for a while, it could prove to be very valuable. Just be careful taking the multiport off, and when you stick the garden hose down deep to start moving stuff around, be cautious about your laterals and stand pipe. Nothing worse than cracking one of those.

 

[clibka]

Good afternoon!

The rest of the CYA is in, and I do believe it is showing up ... Barely. I would say it is somewhere between 15 and 20ppm. The addiction to the process is real though, here is a graph illustrating chem. levels measured every 6-12ish hours:



The pool is substantially more clear, I'll keep my eyes on the levels and report back tomorrow with any changes.

 

[Numb]

You're on the right track! So question about your CYA addition, because if its not fully dissolved it can take some time to show up. You said you're using a sock, are you helping it along by squeezing the sock or letting it do it on its own? Either way is fine, just want to clarify that. I assume you're helping it as it usually takes a bit longer to dissolve.

Keep up the active posting and pictures and this crew will get you to the finish line without doubt. Welcome to TFP!

 

[clibka]

Thanks! I have been squeezing and massaging it in, I checked levels today and it is probably at around 25ish could barely see the dot with the comparator filled to the very top. Here are the #'s as of this morning @ 8:00.

Date: 5/25/17

Time: 8:00

FC: 15

CC: .5

CYA: 25

PH: 7.2

ACID demand to 7.2: 0

TA: 125

So here is the next question, lets say All checks out, what is the proper CYA level for a SWG pool? The chart says that 60ppm is not recommended but 70/80 is?