New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

[jblizzle]

I am thinking that Lee might have been thinking about the option to treat your pool following the Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools due to the small size.

When the pool is small, you always have the option to just drain it, clean it, and start over for a pretty low cost if a problem developed. And so you can "get by" with a cheaper test kit.

The issue in this case is the desire to go with a SWG. You would not want to be draining the pool multiple times in your yard as there is a chance of the salts so built up in the ground and maybe cause damage to plants. Also having to raise the CYA back up and add the salt back in is an additional cost each time you refill.

The safest path forward is to have a good test kit, know the chemistry of the water, and have a trouble free summer.
The cheapest option might be to try to follow that temp pool guide, but this has added risks.

 

[Leebo]

At 15' around and 4' deep you're right around 5k gallons of water. You've got a choice to make, and it's a good choice to have. On one hand you could simply maintain the water knowing that a drain/refill is always an option if you get dirty water. If it turns green, dump it and refill. You can find more information in Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools article.

That said, I wouldn't suggest taking this mindset if you use a SWG. If you chose a SWG I too would suggest a good testkit as it will give you the tool to properly maintain your water. On the flip though taking this approach you'll maintain clear water without any issues and avoid the headache of a drain/refill


Lastly is an answer to your question about what to do right now. I'd just dump all the water personally then scrub the walls down with a bleach/water mixture. A few hours of work and you'll be swimming this weekend.

 

[Pbudde]

Well like I said, the water is down to about 16" now, and I know you all suggest to keep at least 12" to prevent liner shrinkage. A Scrub down/Vacuum of the final bit will be happening before refill. Would this kit get the job done? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hth-6-Way-Test-Kit/101959375

If not I can painfully fork over for that TF-100 I guess. Craziness to me haha.

At 15' around and 4' deep you're right around 5k gallons of water. You've got a choice to make, and it's a good choice to have. On one hand you could simply maintain the water knowing that a drain/refill is always an option if you get dirty water. If it turns green, dump it and refill. You can find more information in Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools article.

That said, I wouldn't suggest taking this mindset if you use a SWG. If you chose a SWG I too would suggest a good testkit as it will give you the tool to properly maintain your water. On the flip though taking this approach you'll maintain clear water without any issues and avoid the headache of a drain/refill


Lastly is an answer to your question about what to do right now. I'd just dump all the water personally then scrub the walls down with a bleach/water mixture. A few hours of work and you'll be swimming this weekend.

 

[jblizzle]

That HTH 6-way is about the best you can get prior to jumping to a "real" kit

The only thing it really lacks is the FAS-DPD chlorine test which allows you get get a much more accurate FC and CC level and allows you to test much higher.
But, as long as you keep the FC level high enough for your CYA level so you do not need to SLAM, it should get you by.

 

[jeffchap]

What you spend up front on a good test kit will easily pay for itself several times over throughout the season, not only in real dollars but also in peace of mind. With only test strip or pool store test results, there is little that the good folks here can do to help you. Our methods rely upon accurate testing, and they aren't called "guess strips" for no reason.

It would be akin to asking your Dr. to examine and diagnose a major malady over the phone. You will end up wasting time and money dumping massive quantities of overpriced and unnecessary chemicals into your pool, with little or temporary results.

Everyone learns this lesson eventually. Trust me, take the easy way out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk

 

[jeffchap]

Btw, I run my 16x48" all season for about $100, mostly muriatic acid, some CYA, and a bag or two of salt. And some testing reagents.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk

 

[Vickery]

Welcome to TFP!
This is the first and most correct step any new pool owner can make. The second one is to stay away from pool stores with a water sample or to ask them how to correct a problem. Yes, $105 seems like a lot. By the third algae bloom and you are floundering around trying to get a handle on it, it will seem both cheap and a life saver. Still stay away from the Pool $tore. That will be the next best investment you can make for a pool as well as the best way to learn how your pool works. You will also learn not to panic when stuff goes wrong...which it will...with no good reason...and you will be able with the help of the kind, patient people on this forum to fix it at the least effort and cost. Your pool is an investment in enjoyment and pleasure. Protect it as such.

 

[Pbudde]

Okay, im gonna buck up for the TF100 XL + salt kit.

Now lemme get these steps straight and ask a few more questions.

Steps:

1) Water level is low now so finish scrubbing walls with bleach/water and get every bit of debris out that I can.

2) Refill pool

3) Get CYA/FC to shock levels and PH to 7.2-7.5 and complete the SLAM test's

4) Get everything else into the good zone, add salt and raise CYA, Then kick on SWG once salt is dissolved


Would it be an issue to have the SWG connected but not powered on during the slam process? Or should I just introduce it after it's all said and done?

My local walmart has Clorox branded Ph up/down, alkalinity up, and CH increaser, are those gonna be fine for leveling out everything? Or what should I use for each?

 

[Vickery]

Having the SWG inline but not powered is fine. Re-read the Pool School. All of the corrections that you need can be had from the grocery store or hardware store without the expensive branded chemicals. You don't know your alkalinity or hardness until you have your test kit; baking soda or muriatic acid will help establish the correct ph level. Once you know your numbers THEN you will know how much of what to buy. Getting the pool clean and properly sanitized is the first step. The rest comes after. Pool maintenance is really very simple the TFP way. Remember, Pool Math is your friend!

 

[Pbudde]

Having the SWG inline but not powered is fine. Re-read the Pool School. All of the corrections that you need can be had from the grocery store or hardware store without the expensive branded chemicals. You don't know your alkalinity or hardness until you have your test kit; baking soda or muriatic acid will help establish the correct ph level. Once you know your numbers THEN you will know how much of what to buy. Getting the pool clean and properly sanitized is the first step. The rest comes after. Pool maintenance is really very simple the TFP way. Remember, Pool Math is your friend!

Yeah I just found out about the PoolMath beta app for my phone and got in on that. That will make life MUCH easier. Even suggest's what to use. I think i'll be good to go now. Thanks everyone. I'll be back to post pictures as I progress.

 

[pooldv]

Okay, im gonna buck up for the TF100 XL + salt kit.

Now lemme get these steps straight and ask a few more questions.

Steps:

1) Water level is low now so finish scrubbing walls with bleach/water and get every bit of debris out that I can.

2) Refill pool

3) Get CYA/FC to shock levels and PH to 7.2-7.5 and complete the SLAM test's

4) Get everything else into the good zone, add salt and raise CYA, Then kick on SWG once salt is dissolved


Would it be an issue to have the SWG connected but not powered on during the slam process? Or should I just introduce it after it's all said and done?

My local walmart has Clorox branded Ph up/down, alkalinity up, and CH increaser, are those gonna be fine for leveling out everything? Or what should I use for each?

Looking good.

For step 3 raise CYA to 30 ppm and then keep FC at shock level for 30, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

You don't need any of those Clorox pool products except for Stabilizer/CYA and muriatic acid. The rest of it is grocery store stuff. More here on pool chems and what they are, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

I've used the AquaRite salt strips for 5 summers and they are close enough. Salt level requires being in the neighborhood. High accuracy is not required. If the SWG is happening and making chlorine then you're good to go.

 

[Pbudde]

Looking good.

For step 3 raise CYA to 30 ppm and then keep FC at shock level for 30, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

You don't need any of those Clorox pool products except for Stabilizer/CYA and muriatic acid. The rest of it is grocery store stuff. More here on pool chems and what they are, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

I've used the AquaRite salt strips for 5 summers and they are close enough. Salt level requires being in the neighborhood. High accuracy is not required. If the SWG is happening and making chlorine then you're good to go.

Well I went with the Taylor salt water testing kit. It cost about $15 more than strips, but I saved $16 on shipping. So really its a break even on that point. I'll probably get test strips just to randomly check for things going out of wack and then pull out the TF100 if something seems off.

 

[pooldv]

The only thing out of whack is you using test strips! LOL!!

If you do a good job maintaining your chlorine this summer the TF-100 might last next summer too. And now that you ordered a TF100 you will be on the secret mailing list they send out every spring where they have a refill kit on sale for under 40 bucks.

 

[Pbudde]

The only thing out of whack is you using test strips! LOL!!

If you do a good job maintaining your chlorine this summer the TF-100 might last next summer too. And now that you ordered a TF100 you will be on the secret mailing list they send out every spring where they have a refill kit on sale for under 40 bucks.

This. This I like. The test strips make sense to me for just a quick reassurance everyday that I jump in that nothing is out of wack, if something looks off, break out the real tests. In my mind it's a logical way to save the TF100 from overuse. It'll still get a full test often even if the strips say its okay.

 

[pooldv]

Here is the problem with that logic, Spock. We have seen many, many (many?) times that test strips aren't accurate, consistent or reliable. That is why we call the guess strips. If you take a test strip reading how do you know it's right? If it does match the TF-100 test then you'll think test strips work. If it doesn't match the TF-100 then what? We do not all go pay a bunch of money for good test kits because we like Taylor. If test strips worked and were reliable then we would all be using them. Right?

 

[Leebo]

This. This I like. The test strips make sense to me for just a quick reassurance everyday that I jump in that nothing is out of wack, if something looks off, break out the real tests. In my mind it's a logical way to save the TF100 from overuse. It'll still get a full test often even if the strips say its okay.

Test strips stink. Period. Even for the "quick test" they stink. Once you get your TF100 you'll get a tool that's suited perfectly for these "quick tests." The K1000 will take you about a minute to test your pH and FC levels which is all many of us test daily. You'll fall in love with this part of the kit quickly.

 

[Pbudde]

Alright, Alright. I'll forget the strips then altogether. So all of my new equipment(pump/SWG/filter/skimmer/robo cleaner) will be here satruday, but the test kit won't be here till monday. If I get the pool refilled by Sunday, should I wait till monday to add anything to the water? Or use pool math to at least get my CYA/FC up to near shock levels? This will be with all fresh water fyi, nothing left over from drainage.

 

[Leebo]

You know your CYA is zero as fill water never has this added. Add enough stabilizer to get to about 30ppm after you fill using PoolMath. Also add enough Chlorine using PoolMath to get to about 5ppm. You can assume here also your FC is zero. While it's possible to have levels of chlorine in your fill it'll be at such low levels you're not gonna damage anything by raising the FC to 5ppm using PoolMath. On the flip side though, IF your FC is really zero adding 5ppm will kill off anything that may try to start growing until your kit gets there Monday.

As for the rest of the levels, ignore them until your kit gets there then worry about them.

 

[pooldv]

Yes, use PoolMath to get 30ppm of CYA floating in a sock or a knee high or two and add 3ppm of bleach. Squeeze them regularly to help it dissolve faster. Then test everything on Monday and we can start tweaking.

Edit: 5 ppm on FC is even better.

 

[Pbudde]

Alright, so ill get CYA to 30ppm and FC to 5ppm according to pool math. Get my kit, get my Ph set and then pump up the FC to 12 to slam?