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Thread: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

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    New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Hello Everyone! I could use some words of wisdom here. I purchased a home this past winter and the previous owners left us the pool. Now that it's warming up out, it's time to rectify that mess. It is a 15' Coleman pool. I purchased a new Intex 2500gph filter pump and a intex SWG to go along with it. Plus a surface skimmer and an automatic floor cleaner to run. Here is the links to those:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I have presently drained the pool down to about 16" of water and have been getting as much as I can out of the bottom. It had a serious amount of leafs and debris in it, and not to mention all the frogs that had some fun in it. Now I know that the first thing I need to do is get everything I can out of it debris wise and refill it. What all chemicals should I plan on getting before hand to get the water ready for salting? I want to try and do all of this on Saturday in one swoop if possible since i'll be back there all morning/day/night smoking some pork shoulders. I have already purchased 160lbs of salt and CYA. Any other suggestions or should I just focus on getting it filled first?

    Do I need to worry about shocking or is that what the boost mode is for with the SWG?
    Do I need to get the levels up to what's mentioned http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...rine-generator before I connect the SWG? Or should that be connected from the get go even without salt in the pool yet?

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    You'll need a bunch of bleach to a) kill any algae still lingering and b) keep it from coming back until the salt is dissolved and the SWG can take over. Start with about ten gallons. If you don't need it all, don't worry. You'll be using it before and after any big swim parties and it'll get used.

    You've done well to remove the organics.
    Refill, let it circulate -- maybe even vacuum and backwash if you've got that equipment -- and then test. If you don't have your own proper test kit, order one now. The rest of what I've typed is useless if you don't have any means of testing onsite. Skip the article in pool school and just go to TF test kits and get the TF100 with the XL option and your choice of salt tests.

    I'm going to assume the CYA level will be really low as much water as you've replaced. You want to add to get to 30 for now. You need to plug pH and TA into poolmath and do what is needed to get pH to 7.2. Then it's jugs away! Bleach bleach bleach until you pass the three tests and the SLAMis complete. All three tests.

    After that you let the FC drop down below 10 and retest and fine tune. Get everything balanced, raise CYA, add salt, and lastly, fire up the SWG.

    Boost mode on the SWG won't generate enopugh FC fast enough to get ahead of any algae. Don't burn out the cell in a futile attempt. Use bleach.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Yikes, thats a lot of money for a testing kit, well over $100 for that is silly. I already have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER so i'll use those for the time being and move up to a more legit kit at a later date.

    So i'll refill, and test the water. Get the levels(minus Salt) to where I need them. Run my pump 24/7 with FC in the high 27-28 region, by using bleach, until it drops less than 1ppm overnight and is clear. Then Add salt, Kick on the SWG and let it ride back down to normal FC levels?

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    We don't recommend any of that. But, it's your pool and you are in charge of it.

    We recommend following this process to kill algae, SLAM

    And this for balancing salt water, Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by pooldv View Post
    We don't recommend any of that. But, it's your pool and you are in charge of it.
    Can you be a little more specific than that?

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Yes, I thought I was. We recommend that you follow this process to kill the algae, SLAM, and then this process to balance your saltwater, Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs

    I think it is best if you read it for yourself and decide which parts you want to follow and which parts you find silly and will ignore.
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by pooldv View Post
    Yes, I thought I was. We recommend that you follow this process to kill the algae, SLAM, and then this process to balance your saltwater, Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs

    I think it is best if you read it for yourself and decide which parts you want to follow and which parts you find silly and will ignore.
    Okay I get what your saying. So just worry about CYA/FC for the slam portion and then worry about everything else once that is complete?
    For the Slam I'll treat the CYA/FC as a Non-SWG to since there is no added salt in the system currently correct?

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    $100 for a testing kit (likely just $50 more than strips due to # tests) will probably save you twice that much in one pool season, unless you don't mind letting levels drift around like crazy. My feeling is if it keeps a potential algae bloom at bay, that alone pays for itself three times over. Not to mention equipment wear/corrosion.
    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
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    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Pbudde View Post
    Yikes, thats a lot of money for a testing kit, well over $100 for that is silly. I already have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER so i'll use those for the time being and move up to a more legit kit at a later date.

    So i'll refill, and test the water. Get the levels(minus Salt) to where I need them. Run my pump 24/7 with FC in the high 27-28 region, by using bleach, until it drops less than 1ppm overnight and is clear. Then Add salt, Kick on the SWG and let it ride back down to normal FC levels?
    It would be better to target 30 for CYA and maintain 12FC during the SLAM, and then add more to raise it to 70 when the SLAM is done.

    But it doesn't really matter, since your test strips won't measure that high in either case.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Pbudde View Post
    Okay I get what your saying. So just worry about CYA/FC for the slam portion and then worry about everything else once that is complete?
    For the Slam I'll treat the CYA/FC as a Non-SWG to since there is no added salt in the system currently correct?
    Yes, follow the FC/CYA Chart for non-SWG during the SLAM. Be sure to adjust pH first, before starting the SLAM.
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    $100 for a testing kit (likely just $50 more than strips due to # tests) will probably save you twice that much in one pool season, unless you don't mind letting levels drift around like crazy. My feeling is if it keeps a potential algae bloom at bay, that alone pays for itself three times over. Not to mention equipment wear/corrosion.
    It's something i'll just pick up later to diminish the upfront costs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    It would be better to target 30 for CYA and maintain 12FC during the SLAM, and then add more to raise it to 70 when the SLAM is done.

    But it doesn't really matter, since your test strips won't measure that high in either case.
    Right yeah, I was looking at the SWG part before I realized I would SLAM it as non-swg.

    Quote Originally Posted by pooldv View Post
    Yes, follow the FC/CYA Chart for non-SWG during the SLAM. Be sure to adjust pH first, before starting the SLAM.
    Thanks!

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    "Run my pump 24/7 with FC in the high 27-28 region"

    The test strips only go to 10 (corrected) and are suspect up to that number. Hence, the $105 test kit. Of that $105, $35 is for the "speed stirrer" which is VERY convenient but not mandatory. I'm surprised that more people don't rave about the Taylor "Sample Sizer". https://www.taylortechnologies.com/p...artNumber=6190.
    35,000 Gal. - 40x20x8 - Plaster - SWG Pentair IC 60 - Barracuda G3 Vacuum - Hayward c1750 Cartridge Filter - Blue Torrent VS 1.5hp pump - Pool is 45 years old.

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Philo View Post
    "Run my pump 24/7 with FC in the high 27-28 region"

    The test strips only go to 5 and are suspect up to that number. Hence, the $105 test kit. Of that $105, $35 is for the "speed stirrer" which is VERY convenient but not mandatory. I'm surprised that more people don't rave about https://www.taylortechnologies.com/p...artNumber=6190.
    What do you mean the strips only go to 5?

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Pbudde View Post
    What do you mean the strips only go to 5?
    Actually, it looks like the Clorox strips will read to 10. But it doesn't matter, that's still not high enough. And what if you're trying to calculate a dose and your FC is 8? It's a big jump there from 5 to 10. Also the dyes tend to bleach out at really high FC levels.

    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    Actually, it looks like the Clorox strips will read to 10. But it doesn't matter, that's still not high enough. And what if you're trying to calculate a dose and your FC is 8? It's a big jump there from 5 to 10. Also the dyes tend to bleach out at really high FC levels.
    It's not a perfect situation, but i'll make it work for the time being.

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Pbudde View Post
    It's not a perfect situation, but i'll make it work for the time being.
    Welcome to TFP!!!

    Well, frankly, the likelihood of success is very low if you are just going to try to "make it work". Maybe you will get lucky and it will temporarily clean up. But, we will be here to help when it inevitably goes green again due to trying to trust test strips.

    Hopefully by then you have not spent more on chemicals than you would have on a good test kit ... not to mention the loss of use while you are dealing with a green pool.

    Good Luck
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Darn you people and your logic! So best bang for my buck. TF-100 Kit with the salt test strips would cover all of my testing needs correct? Is there anything comparable on Amazon? That way I can get it hopefully before this weekend.
    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle View Post
    Welcome to TFP!!!

    Well, frankly, the likelihood of success is very low if you are just going to try to "make it work". Maybe you will get lucky and it will temporarily clean up. But, we will be here to help when it inevitably goes green again due to trying to trust test strips.

    Hopefully by then you have not spent more on chemicals than you would have on a good test kit ... not to mention the loss of use while you are dealing with a green pool.

    Good Luck

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    I prefer the Taylor drop based salt test, but others have luck with the strips (and still others get wacky results with the strips).

    The closest to the TF-100 would be the K-2006C (note the C!!!) ... the basic K-2006 has really small bottles of the reagents you need. The K-2006C has larger bottles for everything, including for the tests that you do not need to have that much. Which is why we recommend the TF-100 which has been tailored to have a better distribution of the reagents which matches real-life use.

    And if I have successfully gotten you to spend money The SpeedStir is well worth it
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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    First and foremost.........we missed something very important! WELCOME TO TFP!


    Quote Originally Posted by Pbudde
    It is a 15' Coleman pool.
    May I ask.......is this pool 4' deep??

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    Re: New Pool Owner Moving To Salt

    Oh a bit I forgot to add. This pool will be taken down once it's too cold to enjoy it. Does that change anything that I need to worry about?

    Quote Originally Posted by Leebo View Post
    First and foremost.........we missed something very important! WELCOME TO TFP!




    May I ask.......is this pool 4' deep??
    Yes, yes it is. Well not actually 4' of water. But 4' tall yes.

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