Checking my understanding and first water test

[Ave]

First time pool owner, taking a while to get a test kit in the mail, so here's what Leslies gave me:

FC - 3
PH - 8
TA - 100
CH - Not tested for
CYA - 15
Dissolved Solids - 700
Phosphates - 100

Things Leslies told me that I believe conflict with what I've learned here.
1. CYA levels are not related to FC
2. Powdered Chlorine is better then bleach, and the extra stuff in bleach will damage my pool pump
3. Need to shock/slam weekly
4. He wanted me to get my cya up to 60

My understanding from being here and pool school
1. CYA is very important to know where your FC levels should be.
2. Bleach is great to use and I should keep using it.
3. As long as FC stays at good levels I never have to SLAM.
4. CYA should to be around 30-40

I know my CYA is low, Poolmath came up with 104 liquid oz to bump it up to 30, sound right? (20k gal pool)

I know my PH is high but I was a little confused on the measurement on the calculator (what does this mean > "31.45% - 20 Baume") I found a 29% muriatic on the jug so I just selected the bottom option that says 29%, anyway I came up with 30oz. to lower it to 7.5

Is dissolved solids something I need to keep an eye on? Didn't see an reference to that in pool school.

Any other advice or comments on my understand would be very helpful, thank you.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! I'll get right to your questions:
- Everything YOU understand in item 1-4 are correct except that your ideal CYA varies based on # hrs of direct sunlight, heat, and if your pool is salt (SWG) versus non-salt. So at some point it would be good to update your signature.
- You are correct to avoid the pool store advice.
- Being a Vegas native myself, I suspect your ideal CYA will shortly be around 50 if your pool does not have a SWG. If you do, then you want a minimum of 70.
- Muriatic acid comes in various percentages. We typically advise people to look for the 20 Baume/31.45%. It can vary slightly. I went to a local pool store yesterday and they got a new brand that says "33%". But just enter your NOW & GOAL numbers and the Poolmath calculator will tell you how much to add. Your pool should typically be in the mid-7s.
- Dissolved solids - don't worry about them.
- Stay close to the vital links below in my signature. You will use them often. They'll keep you out of trouble. ha.

Once you receive your test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006), post a full set of your own numbers and we'll get surgical on it.

 

[AimeeH]

Hi. Welcome to TFP

If that picture is what your pool currently looks like, then please wait until you get your test kit before adding CYA. Cya is the number pool stores most often get wrong. You "could" go ahead and make a small PH adjustment but I honestly think I'd wait for my test kit.

Your pool looks beautiful. What you stated about our methods is correct and Leslie's is wrong......at least if you want to be in control and understand what your adding to your pool. If you like blindly following the advise of a big name chain then I guess they are right

We think we are right and have helped 1000's of pool owners understand pool chemistry and take control from the pool store and save money to boot.

Welcome aboard

 

[Richard320]

Let me just pile on....

You're right, pool store is wrong. It's convenient that they skipped the CH test, because that will likely be the majority of your TDS and they don't want you to see that. EVERYTHING in your pool that isn't water is TDS: residual salt from whatever chlorine you have added since the pool was filled; CYA; TA; Calcium... It's meaningless. Consider that people who use a SWG put 3000 TDS in there via salt! I've never had my TDS tested so I have no clue what it may be. But my water is clear enough to look into the deep end and see that the drain cover screws are phillips head from the deck.

Add 2-3 FC per day and wait for your test kit before you mess with anything else.