Just OPENED POOL, Need some BASIC BALANCING advice

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fudgebar

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Jul 25, 2010
180
North Bergen, NJ
Hey folks....Im in Northern NJ, and I just opened my pool a little early in the season this week. The company that built it opened it for me while I wasnt home but they left a note that they shocked it too. I have run my filter for the last 48 hours, backwashed, reloaded DE and did several Pressure side vaccum cycles and the pool is finally clear, clean and visibility looks ready for the weekend. However, My water chemistry now needs to be properly balanced

I usually maintain my own water balance and do a pretty decent job with all the help from everyone here on this forum...so Im coming back to ask for some simple strategic advice of what I should attack first to get my numbers in check....I've done this before but its been a while and I dont recall the order in which I realigned my chemistry last season. So if any of you can provide some simple advice on how to attack, I'd appreciate it....thanks


Tested using the TFT 100 Kit

FC 27.5
CC .5
PH 7.8
TA 200
CYA 30-40 (approx)

Also quick question....I took these readings after the pool was already shocked and the Chlorine levels where very high (see above) Does that in any way skew the accuracy of the numbers I have taken?


Any assistance you can provide would be appreciated ....thanks

My sig is up to date for my pool specs (except for the water chemistry...those are last years numbers :))
 
Well, first, the pH test can not be trusted when the FC > 10ppm and you are WAY over that right now if anything your pH might be a little low.
Regardless, there is really nothing to do besides continue to follow the SLAM process until you pass the 3 criteria to stop. Just maintain the shock FC level for your CYA. Likely should assume 40ppm.

No point in putting test results in your signature, since some values change every hour ;)
 
Ok did all 3 tests and everything is perfect. Pass the SLAM process.....

Now can someone assist on how to tackle these out of whack numbers?

FC 24
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 200
CYA 30-40 (approx)

Thus far Ive completely shut off my SWG as I do not need anymore chlorine to be generated at this time.....in fact, Im wondering how I can now quickly burn off all this extra chlorine in time to go swimming tommorow?.....Unless of course you do not think the other numbers are safe enough??
 
fudgebar said:
Ok did all 3 tests and everything is perfect. Pass the SLAM process.....

Now can someone assist on how to tackle these out of whack numbers?

FC 24
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 200
CYA 30-40 (approx)

Thus far Ive completely shut off my SWG as I do not need anymore chlorine to be generated at this time.....in fact, Im wondering how I can now quickly burn off all this extra chlorine in time to go swimming tommorow?.....Unless of course you do not think the other numbers are safe enough??
Click to expand...
The pH is probably wrong. When FC is above 10 it interferes. So you can't do anything about that yet. The high FC is rough on swimsuits and maybe on sensitive skin, but it's not going to melt the skin off you or anything. Alkalinity is just baking soda. People brush their teeth with a million parts per million, so it ain't gonna hurt you. CYA is probably fine where it is. While it's relatively low, that excess FC will burn off faster.

The pool store will be delighted to sell you chlorine neutralizer if you're really impatient.
 
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