Second season: Where to begin???

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TF Tim

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May 9, 2016
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Massachusetts
As a new pool owner last year TFP got me up and running and after a short learning curve I had a totally trouble free season!

I still have a lot to learn but have a general knowledge as to how to manage the various levels.

When I closed last year everything was right in line. I am opening this weekend and looking on some guidance to make this years opening a bit smoother.

Just pulled the cover and tested (after a Massachusetts winter) I was a little surprised by my opening test results:

FC - O (no surprise)
CH - 75 (was 275)
TA - 40 (was 90)
PH - 7.2 (was 7.5)
CYA - 0 (was 60ish)

Last year I had 0 CYA at opening and ammonia and had to SLAM pretty hard to get through that and then brought up my CYA. Assuming that the 0 CYA means same issue?
The drop in TA and CH surprised me a bit, never had any issues there.

Any advice as to where to begin is GREATLY appreciated.

Tim
 
The 0 CYA may not be ammonia... I have to add mine every Spring :) but since you know, do the 10 min test first with bleach before adding any!!


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Question: did you allow the water to circulate before testing? Rain and snowmelt could be stratified on top, and naturally, they'll be low on CH and CYA.

Second question: what's the water temperature? If it's chilly, set the sample in a windowsill or something and let it warm up before testing CYA. Cold samples don't mix well and you'll get a falsely low CYA. Also remember that below 30, pretty much everything reads as zero.

If you really think you have ammonia, spend a few bucks on an ammonia test kit at an aquarium store. It may be cheaper to replace water than eliminate ammonia with bleach, as you no doubt know firsthand.
 
Same climate here (although a better baseball team to root for :cool:) in Upstate NY and i lose all of my CYA every winter and don't have ammonia so don't be so sure you do either. I had to buy a new eyeball for my return and the guy at the pool store said it was due to dilution from rain and snow which i am sure could impact your CH and TA as well.
 
Richard320 said:
Question: did you allow the water to circulate before testing? Rain and snowmelt could be stratified on top, and naturally, they'll be low on CH and CYA.

Second question: what's the water temperature? If it's chilly, set the sample in a windowsill or something and let it warm up before testing CYA. Cold samples don't mix well and you'll get a falsely low CYA. Also remember that below 30, pretty much everything reads as zero.
If you really think you have ammonia, spend a few bucks on an ammonia test kit at an aquarium store. It may be cheaper to replace water than eliminate ammonia with bleach, as you no doubt know firsthand.
Click to expand...

I did not allow water to circulate. And it was so cold my sample was about wrist deep...if that (i can hardly type right now). Just got everything running and will let it circulate over night and retest.
The more i look at the water it is MUCH less green than last year. I may have jumped the gun on the self ammonia diagnosis.

I REALLY appreciate the great advice! Will add some Cl and let things run and warm up a bit.

Another quick question. Just bought a new DE filter cartridge. Was thinking I should let things recirculate while I bring up FC for a bit before adding DE and running filter to prevent algae getting into filter. Is that crazy and should I just let it fill and run?


Same climate here (although a better baseball team to root for :cool:) in Upstate NY and i lose all of my CYA every winter and don't have ammonia so don't be so sure you do either. I had to buy a new eyeball for my return and the guy at the pool store said it was due to dilution from rain and snow which i am sure could impact your CH and TA as well.
Click to expand...

Ship of Fools. that's interesting - thanks. It seems like its not such a bad thing starting at 0 each year (rather than facing a drain or huge FC levels). On the baseball front, let's talk in October!!

Thank you all so much.

Tim
 
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