SWG help

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skygremlin

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2012
111
Orange County, CA
I have an Aqua Rite SWG with Hayword T15 Cell, that has stopped creating chlorine (All other levels are good). The Salt cell is roughly 4 years old and tests out “OK” when taken to Leslies. I haven’t had a chance to pull off the Control board cover yet to look at that as it’s been raining the past few days… But I know that has been replaced, I think twice….. Can anybody recommend some other SWG that could be a replacement option for me if I have to replace the control board again..

Any thoughts on how I can tell if the cell or control board is faulty this time? Besides the obvious looking for burn marks / blown fuses and take the cell to a testing facility.
 
What is your water temperature? Have you verified your salt level with a test outside the SWCG?

Often a beginning algae bloom can consume chlorine faster than the generator can create it without showing up in the water. You can eliminate that as a problem by collecting a water sample directly from a return and testing the chlorine in that sample.
 
Turn the SWG on to 100% and post all the diagnostic numbers. We should be able to tell if the SWG is producing chlorine from those numbers.

The board rarely need to be replaced if you have any soldering skills as it takes less than $10 to fix a board if that is the problem.
 
Thanx all

- water temp was 67 this morning
- All other chemical readings were in the normal range last time I had it checked - salt included.. I don't remember off the top of my head right now.. But can get a re-check and post if necessary..
- The Control board has been on super-chlorinate now for 2 - 3 weeks. and the dial has been at 100%. I normally have to have it between roughly 75% - 90% to keep the chlorine level up. and I generally keep it on the low end..
- I'll see if I can get back tonight and button thru each section on the board and post the numbers.. I think I did see a burn mark on the control board (after replacement) the last time.. I thought there were a couple fuses in that I've replaced too.. Also after seeing the blown fuses I put our whole house on a home surge protector.

Will update asap..

thanx again
 
With a 35-40k pool, 4 years puts you at the end of the life expectancy of a T-15 cell. But the diagnostic readings should give us an idea of what's really going on.
 
yeah that's what I've been told about the lifetime of the cell... But was also told that the new ones run $680.00 A LOT of $$... Just want to make sure I'm replacing the right part... for right now... I have pix of the diagnostics and board... I'll try to upload all the diagnostics now... 9 images in all to go thru the full menu..

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Those diagnostics look good. If your actual salt level is close to 2800, the cell is working correctly.

Can you post all chemical levels?

What is your pump run schedule?
 
Thanx - I'll see if I can get everything tested again tonight / asap... Last time was right before starting this thread on the 26th and everything was within the limits... I'll log the actual numbers this time.

I'm a bit confused though... Kind of a rhetorical question... If the diagnostic readings look good and salt cell is working correctly why, after having it at super chlorinate and dial at 100% for 2 - 3 weeks, don't I seem to be producing any chlorine? I added 3 or 4 bags of chlorine the other week.

The schedule, off the top of my head, runs from 12:00AM to I want to say 7:00 AM.. Been running it that way for the past 4 years and seems to work good..
 

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Add your location to your profile so it shows over there <---- so we know what kind of climate/temps we are dealing with. Most likely cause is algae growing in the pool and consuming your chlorine as fast as it is being made. The way to check for that is to perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
You need to get the chlorine up to at least 8 and keep it there. Do an overnight chlorine loss test. You have a big pool. Your runtime is not sufficient to maintain the fc level.
 
You can collect water coming out of the pool return or crack open the fitting right at the discharge from the SWG Cell, collect a sample and compare that to your pool water. If it's generating, you'll see the difference in the chlorine level. Just be sure the SWG is set at 100% so that you know that it's powered during the test.
 
If you have good volts and amps, it’s making the correct amount of chlorine.

It’s like if you have a 5.5 kW heater element and you have 240 volts and 23 amps, you know the heater element is definitely working and producing the correct amount of heat because it’s using the correct amount of power.
 
Location added: Southern CA

we've been running this run time for the past 4 years. Actually I just up'd the RPM's on the VS pump, thinking it wasn't fast enough. First time where no chlorine for this duration and both controller & salt cell test out to be operating normally.... except no chlorine..LOL.

I'll try to get a sample right from the return jet and test... Good idea.. If it was producing anything I'm assuming that is where it'll be..;)
 
You need to SLAM the pool to get rid of the organics consuming the chlorine. The diagnostics say the cell is producing as it should.

You need your own recommended test kit to solve this problem.
 
OK - I'll pull apart the Filter this weekend to clean it out and start scrubbing every day.. We also have a Dolphin cleaner.. Will run that daily as well.. I added 3 bags of shock a few days ago to get something in the pool... And I ordered a Test kit instead of having to go to Leslies and get it tested..

Test Kit Ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V4YZEO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanx for the advice - will keep updating with progress..
 

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