Algae and/or other bacteria won't die

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Did you have the pump running when you added the bleach?

When did you last vacuum?

When did you last brush?

If you have an auto vac, when did you last run it.

The video tells me it may have been a while. you are certainly not ready to finish the SLAM. I saw lots of live algae in your video.

Pump ran 24/7 for the entire slam.

I vacuumed everyday during the slam but that video was with one day of not vacuuming.

I brushed it everyday except in that video which was not done that day.

No auto vac

I passed the slam criteria for 2 days so I stopped. Now my liner is ruined and there's still algae. Great.


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Just catching-up on your thread. Very nice pool and what appears to be exceptionally nice water. Good video post as well. You did a superb job in/under those steps. After reading everything, I would add the following:
- In most cases, we always add liquid chemicals near the return jet(s) - slowly. This allows the pump and returning water to push the chems outwards and assimilate better. Never add directly to the skimmer. Whenever you have a chemical to add, you will find how best to add that product on the "Recommended Chemicals" page for each item. I also can't tell from the video about any damage from pouring around the perimeter, but in the video your pool looks very nice.
- In one of your earliest posts, you mentioned the FC being at 25+ (or more I guess). So I would simply say from this point forward, don't exceed the FC anymore than by about 2 ppm or so as required on the CYA chart. In TFP terms, more is not always better. In fact it's usually a waste as the sun will burn that extra FC faster making you think something is wrong. I learned that from personal experience.
- The dark substance in your video looks borderline between dirt, tree debris, or algae. Based on your personal effort to maintain the FC and keep that pool so pristine, I'm hoping that it's just debris that's settled. As you may already know, an OCLT can often times confirm if it's algae.

My pool is also in full sun, and I'm out in the country. My water temp is almost always over 90, and at one point this year it was 94-96. A perfect environment for algae if not careful. My biggest suggestion right now .... be "absolutely sure" about your CYA. Everything about algae control hinges on the CYA to ensure you can match-up the proper FC from there. I'm assuming you know all the CYA testing tricks, but just in case:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

Sometimes my eyes give me a fit, so I call in reinforcements (wife and son) to have them compare my CYA tube reading. From there I adjust my FC as required. If you are preparing for another OCLT later, don't overshoot the FC after dark. Example - if your CYA is 50 and your SLAM FC is 20, don't over-shoot FC to 30. You can lose more FC that way. (Another personal experience).

You shouldn't have such erratic FC drops each day. Anything more than a drop of 4 FC in 24 hours is alarming. Shoot, I don't remember what kind of filter you have. (Please update your sig). We may have a tip or two there later. But remain consistent with the FC "if" you go back to SLAM mode.

We'll watch y our thread for updates. Have a nice weekend.
 
Possibly mustard algae. In any case, it's algae. All algae has some resistance to chlorine. Some types of algae have more resistance than other types. Some algae use beta carotene as part of their strategy to deal with oxidative stress. Beta carotene adds a yellowish color to the algae.

Regardless of the type, if the algae keeps coming back, it's due to insufficient chlorine levels. I would suggest maintaining fc at a minimum of 15% of cya for two weeks after the Slam.

Bleach is not going to ruin your liner. If your liner is ruined, wrinkled, feels like sand paper or any other damage, it's from long term chemical imbalance or shorter term serious imbalance. What history can you provide for chemistry levels from the time the liner was installed?

Any chemical additions should be followed by brushing and the filter should be on for at least an hour for good mixing.
 
Just catching-up on your thread. Very nice pool and what appears to be exceptionally nice water. Good video post as well. You did a superb job in/under those steps. After reading everything, I would add the following:
- In most cases, we always add liquid chemicals near the return jet(s) - slowly. This allows the pump and returning water to push the chems outwards and assimilate better. Never add directly to the skimmer. Whenever you have a chemical to add, you will find how best to add that product on the "Recommended Chemicals" page for each item. I also can't tell from the video about any damage from pouring around the perimeter, but in the video your pool looks very nice.
- In one of your earliest posts, you mentioned the FC being at 25+ (or more I guess). So I would simply say from this point forward, don't exceed the FC anymore than by about 2 ppm or so as required on the CYA chart. In TFP terms, more is not always better. In fact it's usually a waste as the sun will burn that extra FC faster making you think something is wrong. I learned that from personal experience.
- The dark substance in your video looks borderline between dirt, tree debris, or algae. Based on your personal effort to maintain the FC and keep that pool so pristine, I'm hoping that it's just debris that's settled. As you may already know, an OCLT can often times confirm if it's algae.

My pool is also in full sun, and I'm out in the country. My water temp is almost always over 90, and at one point this year it was 94-96. A perfect environment for algae if not careful. My biggest suggestion right now .... be "absolutely sure" about your CYA. Everything about algae control hinges on the CYA to ensure you can match-up the proper FC from there. I'm assuming you know all the CYA testing tricks, but just in case:


Sometimes my eyes give me a fit, so I call in reinforcements (wife and son) to have them compare my CYA tube reading. From there I adjust my FC as required. If you are preparing for another OCLT later, don't overshoot the FC after dark. Example - if your CYA is 50 and your SLAM FC is 20, don't over-shoot FC to 30. You can lose more FC that way. (Another personal experience).

You shouldn't have such erratic FC drops each day. Anything more than a drop of 4 FC in 24 hours is alarming. Shoot, I don't remember what kind of filter you have. (Please update your sig). We may have a tip or two there later. But remain consistent with the FC "if" you go back to SLAM mode.

We'll watch y our thread for updates. Have a nice weekend.

Thanks for the compliments! I'm also out in the country and my water temp is 90 or better constantly.

I really have trouble with the cya test....I keep testing over and over but I'm still not completely convinced. The best I can come up with is between 30-40. Originally I thought it was 45-50 but that was conducted indoors.

During the day at target FC levels I never lose more than 2.5. Only when It's at high Slam or mustard slam levels. So I guess its normal to lose chlorine extremely fast at high levels?
 
Possibly mustard algae. In any case, it's algae. All algae has some resistance to chlorine. Some types of algae have more resistance than other types. Some algae use beta carotene as part of their strategy to deal with oxidative stress. Beta carotene adds a yellowish color to the algae.

Regardless of the type, if the algae keeps coming back, it's due to insufficient chlorine levels. I would suggest maintaining fc at a minimum of 15% of cya for two weeks after the Slam.

Bleach is not going to ruin your liner. If your liner is ruined, wrinkled, feels like sand paper or any other damage, it's from long term chemical imbalance or shorter term serious imbalance. What history can you provide for chemistry levels from the time the liner was installed?

Any chemical additions should be followed by brushing and the filter should be on for at least an hour for good mixing.

I used to keep the chems like this

FC=2 but now I keep it at 7 and not lower than 4
PH=7.3
TA=40-50
CH=150-200 but I don't mess with it or test often
CYA=30-40 but I am terrible with this test
 
I really have trouble with the cya test....I keep testing over and over but I'm still not completely convinced. The best I can come up with is between 30-40. Originally I thought it was 45-50 but that was conducted indoors. During the day at target FC levels I never lose more than 2.5. Only when It's at high Slam or mustard slam levels. So I guess its normal to lose chlorine extremely fast at high levels?
Once you complete this last round of SLAMming/testing, I would recommend increasing your CYA a bit. I keep mine in the 60-70 range and maintain an FC of about 7.5 give or take. I never let my FC drop below 5-6 and my pool is always crystal. Even when I get lazy about vacuuming (which is quite often), I see the dirt/debris, dead scorpions and other critters than took a dive in my pool, but it remains clear. The sun in our central/south-central areas is quite intense. Once you confirm the water is algae-free and pass an OCLT, the additional CYA may give your FC the relief it needs. Oh yes, the higher your FC during a SLAM the faster your FC will drop. That's normal.
 
The yellow is an indication of beta carotene. In my opinion, high levels of beta carotene are usually associated with mustard algae. In any case, the beta carotene usually means that the algae has better than average ability to cope with oxidative stress, which means that somewhat elevated levels of chlorine might be helpful for a few weeks to prevent reoccurring outbreaks.
 
Once you complete this last round of SLAMming/testing, I would recommend increasing your CYA a bit. I keep mine in the 60-70 range and maintain an FC of about 7.5 give or take. I never let my FC drop below 5-6 and my pool is always crystal. Even when I get lazy about vacuuming (which is quite often), I see the dirt/debris, dead scorpions and other critters than took a dive in my pool, but it remains clear. The sun in our central/south-central areas is quite intense. Once you confirm the water is algae-free and pass an OCLT, the additional CYA may give your FC the relief it needs. Oh yes, the higher your FC during a SLAM the faster your FC will drop. That's normal.

I'm going to maintain the chlorine at 7ppm for a few more days and see what happens. If algae is present or my overnight levels drop I'll slam again. I'm sort of reluctant to raise my CYA in the event that algae comes back I'll have to drain the pool to slam it.

The yellow is an indication of beta carotene. In my opinion, high levels of beta carotene are usually associated with mustard algae. In any case, the beta carotene usually means that the algae has better than average ability to cope with oxidative stress, which means that somewhat elevated levels of chlorine might be helpful for a few weeks to prevent reoccurring outbreaks.

So, is there a time and place for algaecides then? Since some algae doesn't care about chlorine and won't die?
 
All algae can be controlled by chlorine. It's just finding the correct fc/cya ratio for your algae. For most algae, 7.5% is enough. In my opinion, mustard needs a little bit higher ratio; maybe up to 15%.

Even then, it's only for a week or two to make sure that any residual mustard is killed.

And this is mostly for situations where mustard has a place to hide from good circulation, like in your steps.
 

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All algae can be controlled by chlorine. It's just finding the correct fc/cya ratio for your algae. For most algae, 7.5% is enough. In my opinion, mustard needs a little bit higher ratio; maybe up to 15%.

Even then, it's only for a week or two to make sure that any residual mustard is killed.

And this is mostly for situations where mustard has a place to hide from good circulation, like in your steps.

Ah ok. Thanks!


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Here's a pic of the filter

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