That all depends upon how much bleach you are willing to buy. The SLAM level is 40% of your CYA. So if your CYA is 149 ppm, you need to bring your FC up to 60 ppm. You can use PoolMath to determine how much bleach that will require.
No FC reading
- Thread starter snagot923
- Start date
The 3 criteria for finishing a SLAM are:
1) less than 1 ppm FC loss overnigh
2) CC .5 or below
3) water is clear
Since you fail at least one of those tests, I would say yes, SLAM it. If you need further confirmation, perform an OCLT and see if your FC drops by more than 1 ppm.
1) less than 1 ppm FC loss overnigh
2) CC .5 or below
3) water is clear
Since you fail at least one of those tests, I would say yes, SLAM it. If you need further confirmation, perform an OCLT and see if your FC drops by more than 1 ppm.
Yes you have to slam, use this method it works! Follow the instruction you have already been given and you will have a beautiful pool that will be easy to take care of. We know it can be a bit much in the beginning, I promise it won't be if you do your due diligence. Read the ABC's and Pool School and Slam several times. This is a process that you can do. Order the TF-100 XL with Speed stir and YOU will be in control of your pool not the pool store. Everyone on this forum shares in your frustration with the pool store most people on here went thru the same thing that's how they found this place.
So with that said, just bite the bullet order the test kit do a partial drain of the pool start putting a minimum of 1/2 gallon of bleach in everyday and when your test kit arrives we will get your numbers and help guide you down the path to owning your own Trouble Free Pool.
We are waiting on your numbers.
So with that said, just bite the bullet order the test kit do a partial drain of the pool start putting a minimum of 1/2 gallon of bleach in everyday and when your test kit arrives we will get your numbers and help guide you down the path to owning your own Trouble Free Pool.
We are waiting on your numbers.
Ok...test kit was ordered....will drain half of it tonight...call already put in to pool water dude....stay tuned lol
- Jan 4, 2016
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You asked highest manageable CYA level, and all the answers above are good. For your climate and now that you're part way through summer, 40 or 50 ppm CYA is probably a good number for ongoing management. The highest practical number is 80, but it's painful for a SLAM. So if I were you, I'd be shooting for 50.
Yes i figured that out when my CYA level came back 149 and his response was.....it's still ok:? Lol
- Jan 4, 2016
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I asked about CYA once, then after the quizzical look, I said cyanuric acid. The response was: "Never heard of that, or sionara acid. Is it from Japan?"
I learned to go with Stabilizer
I learned to go with Stabilizer
So drained the pool halfway and added new water and unfortunately the CYA level is still 90...Im crushed and cannot afford another drain...this has definitely been a learning experience for me and hopefully next season will be better....until then...is there anything i can do so we can still use the pool this season? FC is currently 8.3. Combined chlorine is 0.28 and TC is 8.66. pH is 7.4 alk 84 ppm. Thank you to everyone who has helped.
I feel you're pain, and I'm sorry, because I can see you are really trying. I'll try to be simple with the explanation and choices you have:
1) Drain the pool 55% giving you a CYA of 40
2) Keep the pool at a CYA of 90
With option 1, once you drain and refill, you would need to use pool math and add bleach to bring your FC to 16, and keep it there. Starting at say 5ppm, that's 2/3 gallon of bleach. Then keep it at 16 best you can. That requires testing every few hours and topping off with a little bleach. You'll see the pool turn from green to milky blue (you've already experienced some of this). That's the algae dying. The next part is let your filter do it's job WHILE you keep the FC at 16, until the water clears. At that point, you are near the end, and we'll walk you through how to do an overnight chlorine loss test. If your pool passes that test, then you're done with SLAM and back to maintaining your pool.
With option 2 if you cannot drain/refill, you would need to use pool math, but this time add more bleach to bring your FC up to 35. For a 4600 Gallon pool, starting at say 5ppm FC, that's adding 2 gallons of bleach. Fortunately for you, your pool is small, so even having a high CYA of 90, this is still doable. Now, you'll need to test every few hours just as before and keep your FC at 35. The pool will again turn milky blue and then begin to clear over 3 to 5 days. And again, once the pool is clear we can help you with a OCLT test.
The key to expediting this process, is test often, keep the FC up above 35, and run your filter 24/7. I know you're frustrated, but it's very doable with a small pool even with a CYA of 90, so don't give up. Then over time, with backwashes and small drains when you can, you can bring your CYA down over the course of several months. Just don't add anymore through trichlor or dichlor chlorine pucks. Liquid bleach ONLY!
1) Drain the pool 55% giving you a CYA of 40
2) Keep the pool at a CYA of 90
With option 1, once you drain and refill, you would need to use pool math and add bleach to bring your FC to 16, and keep it there. Starting at say 5ppm, that's 2/3 gallon of bleach. Then keep it at 16 best you can. That requires testing every few hours and topping off with a little bleach. You'll see the pool turn from green to milky blue (you've already experienced some of this). That's the algae dying. The next part is let your filter do it's job WHILE you keep the FC at 16, until the water clears. At that point, you are near the end, and we'll walk you through how to do an overnight chlorine loss test. If your pool passes that test, then you're done with SLAM and back to maintaining your pool.
With option 2 if you cannot drain/refill, you would need to use pool math, but this time add more bleach to bring your FC up to 35. For a 4600 Gallon pool, starting at say 5ppm FC, that's adding 2 gallons of bleach. Fortunately for you, your pool is small, so even having a high CYA of 90, this is still doable. Now, you'll need to test every few hours just as before and keep your FC at 35. The pool will again turn milky blue and then begin to clear over 3 to 5 days. And again, once the pool is clear we can help you with a OCLT test.
The key to expediting this process, is test often, keep the FC up above 35, and run your filter 24/7. I know you're frustrated, but it's very doable with a small pool even with a CYA of 90, so don't give up. Then over time, with backwashes and small drains when you can, you can bring your CYA down over the course of several months. Just don't add anymore through trichlor or dichlor chlorine pucks. Liquid bleach ONLY!
- Jan 4, 2016
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Your slam will go quick, but don't be shy with the chlorine. Big numbers. Go for it. It won't hurt anything and you can swim in it if you can see the bottom.
The initial charge is a lot, but top-ups will gradually decrease. And take advantage of the bleach holiday after you get it done. You might get 3-5 days at the end with no additions. Good advice and description above^ from Robert
Make sure you have enough powder and a 2 oz. (60 ml) bottle of R-0871 FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent. Each test is going to take 3 mls if you do the 10 ml test. Start experimenting with the 5 ml test. Scrounge up a 5 ml pipette if you can.
The initial charge is a lot, but top-ups will gradually decrease. And take advantage of the bleach holiday after you get it done. You might get 3-5 days at the end with no additions. Good advice and description above^ from Robert
Make sure you have enough powder and a 2 oz. (60 ml) bottle of R-0871 FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent. Each test is going to take 3 mls if you do the 10 ml test. Start experimenting with the 5 ml test. Scrounge up a 5 ml pipette if you can.
93specv
0
Sorry if off topic but in reading through this, and the post by robertmeee, am I to understand the the "hockey pucks" add CYA?
Yes, use bleach from now on...
8,400 gal 3K GPH pump, SWG CG-28669, TF100 test kit, speed stir, K-1766 Taylor salt test.
The corner stone of TFP
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
8,400 gal 3K GPH pump, SWG CG-28669, TF100 test kit, speed stir, K-1766 Taylor salt test.
The corner stone of TFP
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
93specv
0
I got our levels all balanced out from a baquicil detox using the ABCs and TFP methods, mainly bleach with stabilizer and some PH adjustments. I used the calculator to sort of "set it and forget it" using tricolor tabs. Guess I missed wherever it was mentioned they bump CYA levels. Now applying it into the calculator I see the change (which will have minimal impact) and will maintain bleach dosages from here on out.
Y'all are really great here! Brings me back 10-15 years before "other" social media sites destroyed this platform setting. Thanks for keepin it real! ??
Y'all are really great here! Brings me back 10-15 years before "other" social media sites destroyed this platform setting. Thanks for keepin it real! ??
- Jan 4, 2016
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93specv, you're very welcome and it's great to have you here at TFP. When you have an issue or question, feel free to start a thread. We'll be staying focused on snagot's SLAM in this thread. And yeh, you're so right, the mods and experts here do a great job of ensuring reliable information.
And yeh, you're so right, the mods and experts here do a great job of ensuring reliable information.
93specv,
If you have a minute set up your signature so we can help more effectively in the future.
If you have a minute set up your signature so we can help more effectively in the future.