Liquidator installed below pool level

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I don't see that it will be a long project either...interesting about the Ts...will study that option.
I think the OUT line is going to go in the plug in my pump basket as I've seen suggested someplace and I think this is what Sal was saying on our phone call.

On the IN line I don't mind drilling the hole at all. It's just PVC and this is one piece of pool equipment I will be removing if we ever move..that section of PVC can just be replaced then. I just see a new owner thinking 'wth?' and the pool people around here shrugging their shoulders and it ending up in the trash...you know, cuz 'pucks' are the best way... :blah:
 
I am operating with the official Bama setup pictured above and it is still overflowing. The float valve looks good and isn't nicked anywhere. It is apparently a very slow leak causing the overflow. My pump is on a 4 hour on/off cycle, and it doesn't overflow until it has been off for at least a couple to three hours, and when it does the float is completely submerged. I'm at my wits end.
 
Call Hasa and get them to send you a new float valve. And while you're waiting on that, take the float valves apart and swap the rubber seals. That way you can run it till the new one gets there. If it still leaks you'll know it's the nozzle and not the seal.
 
This IS a brand new float valve from HASA. I had the same problem with the old one, I think from the beginning. I just ran the pump all the time to avoid problems. I never got around to troubleshooting till now, and I replaced everything (check valves, floats, etc) . The rubber seals and the nozzles look perfect and they SEEM to seal off just fine. Wait 3-4 hours after pump shutoff and the tank is overflowing.
 
I just took some pics but need to figure out how to upload. Bama, I'm testing to determine which side it is coming from by cutting off the valve on one side or the other, but it seems when I try to do this (cut flow from EITHER side) it doesn't overflow. I don't know if that is due to intermittant/watched pot effect, or evidence of a synergistic action between both sides. I'm still experimenting, but each test takes several hours. Sal, there is only one check valve, on the suction side. It is brand new (US plastics 3/8") and seems to work correctly when tested by blowing air against the water in the tubing. The arrow points away from the tank, towards the pump intake as it should.
 
First an overall picture. The suction side is done in clear tubing. The pressure side is done in black tubing.
[attachment=0:1xldur98]overall.jpg[/attachment:1xldur98]
Next, a closer view looking down
[attachment=1:1xldur98]closer.jpg[/attachment:1xldur98]
Here is the check valve, and you can see where the tubing connects to the suction line via a tee near the pump inlet. The arrow points down, toward the pump inlet
[attachment=2:1xldur98]suction check.jpg[/attachment:1xldur98]
 

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Here is where the return tubing connects to the pressure side, between the filter and the valves to the returns. Photo taken from the rear side)

[attachment=1:3ggs59hh]return.jpg[/attachment:3ggs59hh]

Here is what the floats look like after pump has been off for a few hours, tank is overflowing out the hinge holes and the floats are submerged. The IN float on the right is the one with the longer arm, though it doesn't look that way in the picture. The OUT float is the one with the shorter arm and the sand inside.

[attachment=2:3ggs59hh]overflow.jpg[/attachment:3ggs59hh]

And this is what the tank looks like during normal flow conditions, the water level is about 2.5" below the top of the tank:
[attachment=0:3ggs59hh]normal flow.jpg[/attachment:3ggs59hh]
 

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this may not be right, but the way I eliminaed my in float valve was I pulled the tubing off of it while the pump was off. I placed a cup under it to catch any leakage and waited. The tank started to overflow and there was nothing in the cup so the float valve was sealing. I then pulled the tube off of the tank side of the out check valve with the pump off and it leaked. So it would seem to be % bad check valve. When i get my new ones, I will know for sure. Does your tank want to overflow if you close off the flow control valve? If it doesn' that would point to a bad out check valve. If it still does that would point to a bad in float valve. Hope we both get this solved soon
 
Miranda said:
Here is where the return tubing connects to the pressure side, between the filter and the valves to the returns. Photo taken from the rear side)

[attachment=1:2ecxbv1q]return.jpg[/attachment:2ecxbv1q]
Click to expand...
Is that the 'T' to which you referred the other day? And that can just be capped in the winter or if I should ever remove the liquidator and would not require drilling into the pvc?

I plan to attach the OUT line to the drain in the pump basket. That looks just as easy on the IN line...just want to be sure I know what I'm looking for at Lowes.
 
Everything looks good there. I bet you have a bad check valve. Even if it's brand new I bet it's bad. Since it takes so long for it to overflow you probably can't tell by blowing back through it that it's bad. I'd change it out if you have an extra one.
 

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