Replace pentair Front Housing

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I

iceflow

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Jul 25, 2010
201
I'm getting ready to do this once I get the correct p/n shipped. My pump booklet has the wrong p/n in it. :brickwall:
I may (probably will ) have to cut the piping on the output side so as to unscrew the old housing...however...can you take a look at the attached pic and tell me if the threaded connection going into the multi port valve on the left will unscrew? Are they typically connected without being glued to the pipe? If so then I will be able to remove the housing without cutting piping. My guess is that the threaded coupling is glued onto the 2 inch pipe. I'm assuming that is the easiest / cheapest way of connecting the threaded assy to the piping. Just a long shot. The image is upside down, not sure why that is. :geek:
 
WASP said:
The fitting is glued. When you install your new pump, use unions to connect.
Click to expand...

OK thanks. By unions....do you mean a 2in plastic coupler? or is there a flexible version I could use that may be easier to manage? I've seen some flexible couplings in Lowes, basically you fasten them with worm drive hose clamps.

Thanks
 
OK, embarrassing as the latter part of my report may be, I'm posting anyway in the event some other bright spark has a similar notion.

A couple of things on fitting this item.
When I was test fitting the housing to the strainer basket I noticed that one of the bolts would have gone in x-threaded if I’d have had at it with a wrench. They are steel bolts going into a brass threaded insert in the housing. So you may want to carefully do a test bolt fitment and make sure they screw in nice and easy, use WD-40 or some sort of lube to sluice out the brass threads if necessary. Also make sure there is no crud on the bolts. You do want them to go in nice and quickly if you have to cut the piping as I had to as you will be working with quick setting cement, unless there is a slow set product which I’m not aware of. There was no clearance to unscrew the housing from the piping so I had to cut……which brings me to the more macabre event….don’t try this at home…

I wasn’t looking forward to messing with a rigid PVC coupling to reconnect the 2 inch piping. I had visions of the PVC cement setting before I could get the housing bolted up flush with the strainer basket. That stuff will set in about 20 to 30 seconds. So, I had this brainwave of using a flexible coupling held in place by worm drive clamps. Thankfully, it blew apart as soon as the pump started to build up pressure. It blew apart like a piece of jelly, I shudder to think what might have happened had it held for a few hours and I’d have been watching tv with a celebratory beer congratulating myself on a job well done.
So with a proper plastic coupling and many thanks to the great Pool pixie in the sky, I re-engaged. I was easily able to get the housing and basket bolted up before the PVC cement set on the rigid coupling, the bolts were all test fitted and clean going in. Also, I saw 2 types of 2 inch coupling, one was 3 inches long, and the other was about 2 inches long. I went with the 3 inch one. I think the job is 'a good un'
 
banditig said:
Glad you got it working. By the way, this is the union wasp was talking about:
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...gle-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=60797107
Click to expand...
yes, I must clarify there, I wasn't referring to wasp or anyone else with my bright spark line, no offense meant. That line was totally square on my shoulders. Anyway that is good to know for the next time. Thanks for the pic. What I bought was a very pliable piece of drain connector complete with worm clips. I should've known better.

Thanks
 
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