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Rafy, Having a filter issue will not cause scaling in the pool, if that's what you mean.

Welcome to TFP! I doubt the pool is faded...it probably has a nice thick coating of calcium scale from years of water chemistry mismanagement. Does the surface feel rough? The fact that you could get some of it off with a pressure washer is another clue. Try searching the forum for "no...

It will dissolve some plaster, which may knock some pebbles loose. It's just the nature of the beast.

I have never heard of such a thing. can you post a photo? :scratch:

Ideally yes, if salt strips were perfectly accurate. You don't need potassium chloride, but you could use it if you want. The only time it might be a good idea is if you were on a strict low sodium diet and loved to chug pool water.

How about fertilizer? Could be iron.

Welcome to TFP! Those looks like spots form organic matter sitting on the bottom, like a leaf or an acorn. If you have a chlorine puck around, try diving down and scrubbing one of them with it for a little bit. If it is an organic stain, just upping the chlorine level in the pool will make...

If it comes off with a trichlor puck, it's organic staining and elevated chlorine will gradually make them fade.

There's no problem with adding them, but the probably won't save you any acid...you'll just have to add more of it less often, since it slows the rise by making the pH harder to change. I wouldn't worry about raising TA unless it's very low...<50 maybe. I don't see a salt system in your...

Re: So you want to add borates to your pool--Why and How Never heard of it, and Google doesn't seem to have any idea what it is either. Sounds like it's probably overpriced borax/boric acid.

could be, but a brush should remove those easily. They do bleach gray/white.

Looks like some nasty copper stains...almost certainly cause by (over)use of copper sulfate algeacides. If you get black algae (which can be prevented), it will still look better than that! Do you have a main drain? If you do, you might be able to just pump to waste with the main drain as...

Can you post some pictures?

It's just the vented caps working. I keep mine outside and the boxes always disintegrate.

Re: The uber geek way of measuring your free-form pool volum That is one mutant pool! Looks like the seaworld logo to me.

If you lower your TA too much, you'll start to see swings in pH and it probably will be harder to keep in a tight range. You could aim for 7 with the pH, but that doesn't give much leeway. Honestly the best way to lower your CSI would be to replace water. Or, you could add some salt.

How did you get those test results? My gut feeling does not believe the calcium number.

Give it a once-over with a pressure washer and fill 'er up!

Looks like copper stains to me...at least looking at the bench seat in the bottom right of the picture. 2 tests you can try: hold a chlorine tablet on the plaster and see if it lightens the spot, then hold a vitamin C tablet and see if it lightens it. Lightening by chlorine = organic...

That water's fine...the salt content is not very high, and the calcium hardness will be a portion of the total hardness, so also OK. FC is free chlorine, and you won't have any of that in your well.

It works with KCl just fine...I seem to remember some old conversations regarding sodium intake and diabetes, and people were using potassium chloride instead. You just need more of it (by weight) to have the SWG work correctly; probably need a certain molar concentration or something...I'm...

After shocking a pool, you end up with clean water that is slightly saltier than it was before. Not chemical soup by any definition.

I saw those too...cute, catchy, and nearly always ineffective. MPS works by oxidizing organics...but it's not a sanitizer, so won't kill algae. If you have a bunch of gunk like sweat oils, pee, etc that is clouding up the pool, it could help, but the sun provides enough UV that for an outdoor...

It has to do with the solubility of carbonates in water...unlike most solutes, they are more soluble in cold water than warm. Hence, fizzier warm soda than cold. Trying to keep the CSI right at a certain value is a real pain, and not worth the trouble. Yes, -0.6 will start pulling calcium...

Re: ECOsmarte pool I think cryptosporidium is the only thing that lasts in chlorine...rare though. As for the waterpark, either the infection came from something else or there was no FC in the water. Staph can't survive in water with enough FC.

Re: copper EPA info That still does not say it is an approved sanitizer for swimming pools, meaning it is still illegal to use in a public pool. The kill times for various disease-causing microbes using chlorine and various metals are discussed in depth in the 'chemical-free pools - the truth'...

I doubt you will find many satisfied customers...you can read some old threads to see why. You are free to use it in your own pool. Do yourself a favor a don't believe what you read on their site. This forum has real experiences, which are far more valuable. Edit: using the google search...

I think the acid demand is absolutely accurate, since it is directly measuring pH change in your pool water...which, as you wrote, means no worrying about the other numbers. The Pool Calculator depends entirely on the numbers you enter into it, which always have some slop in them. That being...

No, but you may have trouble heating it that much. Do you have a heat pump or gas heater? Do you have a solar cover? A HP won't be able to do that, and you'll need a cover for the gas to get it to 80. It also will be a very large gas bill...who's paying that? You shouldn't be.

If it doesn't fizz, it's not baking soda. Something else is going on!