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There are some marks on the bottom of my pool which I'm told are from pucks. They were there when I bought the place and 7 years later and an acid wash and they are still there. No metals in my water.

Thud.

I have some strips from Natural Chemistry that I bought locally - sort of a pain to test, even with the strips - I'm not sure they are worth a lick, but they are supposed to test from 0 - 2500 ppm. The strips are expensive, too. There are only 10 strips in the container and while I cannot...

Jason, In this case, wouldn't it be good to have the phosphate level checked and possibly treated? From what I understand, fertilizers introduce a lot of phosphates - just saying, if that's what's going on, it may make sense.

Waterbear is right. I live in Phoenix and my pool is probably 98% of the time in full sun. I only get a little shade for a couple of hours. I find if I keep my CYA at 45-50, my chlorine levels are pretty darn stable.

It's a vinyl pool, right? You don't need to worry about CH at all, according to many here. I think it sounds like you made an excellent choice. So many owner's who have well water, fight the discoloration of water and other surfaces from metals in the water. So, if your subsequent fill...

I don't wear any protective gear other than my regular glasses. You do need to always be cautious about splashing in your eyes. It will take your breath away, so also be careful of the fumes. When there's a slight breeze, I pour my dosage into a plastic container that I've marked the 1 and 2...

You should go with the 8th drop. When you test, you add drops until the color doesn't change any more. So for instance, probably a 9th drop wouldn't have changed the color any more, so you would count it as 8. Baking soda affects TA more than pH. When TA is really low, the baking soda will...

Here's my thoughts on the matter. No matter what system you use - you still need to test regularly and adjust as necessary. The only thing any of them do really is prevent you from having to go out and buy the chlorine, or whatever you use, and sometimes you still have to have some on hand...

It's much more pleasing to the eye. Great job, Jason.

That seems pretty high for evap alone. Even here in AZ where it's very arid, evap rate is usually 1/3 inch per day.

If it's algae, then I would bring it up to shock level.

Duraleigh, I think you are right that copper itself won't be evident visually, but it's the chemical reaction when you add chlorine that turns the water green. It's been a long time since I've seen it - I don't have a copper issue, myself, but as I recall, it's a different kind of green than...

Pool heater? If so, possible corrosion.

Oh, good! Just wanted to be sure. I'd just hate to have anyone raise their Alk a whole bunch based on an incorrect reading.

Just a word of caution - if you are testing with strips instead of a drop kit, be very cautious about believing the TA on certain brands of test strips. I use test strips on occasion - as a quick check when I've overslept and am hurrying like a mad to get to work, and even sometimes when I...

I think, though, anyone with pool heaters does need to keep a certain amount of calcium. I know some heater manufacturers will not honor the warranty unless you have kept your calcium and pH/TA in a particular range.

LOL! You both are so funny.

Boy, I wish I could find this article I was reading yesterday, but it was claiming that calcium is all part of balancing water because it can help with your TA balance. Don't know if it's true. Maybe some of the chemical experts here know something of this.

You would need to drain about half to get it to 50.

With your problem, you need to add it both day and night. However, normally it is best to add chlorine at night when you are just trying to maintain.

20,000 ppb of phosphates? I'm wondering how they could get this high. I'd consider having my fill water tested for contamination of phosphates. I think you should simultaneously treat for high phosphates as well as shock but with that high of a level it may be so costly to remove phosphates...

I believe your conclusions are correct. I'm no chemist, but I'm sure that one of the chemical experts will be along soon to explain/answer your questions. I just wanted to mention that products like Endure or Proteam Supreme, which are sold at pool stores are sodium tetraborate. Here's a link...

I'm certainly no chemist - heck, I don't even understand half of what the "science" of all of it is. However, I just went through 2 weeks last month of lowering my TA and I can attest that it was much easier and quicker to lower my TA using the acid ball rather than the drizzle method. I wish...

I'd be skeptical too. Wonder what the price is for one.

Jason, what a nice thing to do. Thanks!

yes, it is a very good thing

I don't understand why you say the acid ball method doesn't work very well. Could you explain? Because, in my experience it works faster than drizzling the acid around the pool and doesn't affect your pH very much.

For your pool volume 11 ounces of acid will bring down the pH .2 I personally don't add more than 3 or 4 cups at a time in that size of pool over a period of 24 hours. How are you applying the acid? Drizzling it around the pool or in one spot? I have found that pouring about 1.5 cups in one...

So is this waterfall more of a trickling type of waterfall? That's what the pic looks like, to me. In that case, I definately agree it looks like efflorescense. My old brick basement in the midwest was always sweating in the summer and would get that. If it's kind of crystally powdery when...