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My pad was called "Happy Bottom" 17 years ago when I put up my pool. I believe it was 1/4" thick closed cell foam, I cant remember. I also opted for the wall foam and the foam cove. I do think it helps hold heat better to some degree at night, with a solar cover. The foam cove is nice also...

Re: Uncovered to clear water with rust stain on the bottom. For a rust stain, take some vitamin C tablets, crush them up in a sock, & put them on the stain. If it's an iron stain, it should disappear. Actually, one tablet would probably do it, not crushed up. Hold it on the stain with your...

+1 here also. I wish I'd done it years ago!

Mine is also like that in about a 10' long stretch right inside the foam cove I have. It's been that way for probably 10 out of it's 16 years & it's caused no problems with the liner so far. I've just kept an eye on it & it's never gotten any worse. It has probably sunk maybe 1/4 - 1/2 inch...

I have an aqualuminator light as well. You can adjust the flow, if you didn't already know this by turning the outside vented collar where the water returns. If it seems too tight to turn, try loosening the nut that holds the light in on the outside of the pool. Most times for me, the skimmer...

I've had the foam cove, Happy Bottom (1/8" closed cell foam), & foam wall liner in the pool going on 16 years now. I'm sold on it all. I'm a firm believer that with a solar cover, the foam wall will loose less heat at night than without. I've done repeated tests with a friends pool on heat loss...

On my pool, the gorilla pad (mine was called happy bottom) went down first, then the cove on top of that (no sand). I also opted for wall foam (thin foam pad just like the bottom). I feel it really helps keep heat in the pool overnight & an added benefit is cushioning the liner from the steel...

I used the foam cove, foam Happy Bottom, & foam wall liner when I installed my pool 14 years ago. When it comes time for a new liner or new pool, I'll do it all the same again. I like it & have had excellent results with it.

Is the film kind of foamy? Check your pump & filter, make sure it's not sucking air. If that seems all fine, I wouldn't worry about it right now. Mine did that also during the process of coming around. It will probably clear up on its own. Check the PH & see if it's in more of a 7.0-7.2 range...

Congrats on the test kit also & Ditto to Butterfly's post. I have the same sized pool as you, so I plugged some #'s into the Pool Calculator, & come up with adding 65 oz of washing soda/soda ash, or 142 oz of Borax (whichever is easier to find) to move your PH from 6.8 to 7.2. Or if you had a...

The outlet you speak of should be ok to plug the pump into. A hardware store, a farm store that sells sprayer fittings, & pools stores should carry the fittings. I have the same pump, & it should be 1 1/2 pipe thread on the end that screws into the pump, & you need to measure the hose for the...

Don't be intimidated. Alot of people are here to help no matter the length of the thread. It is impossible tho to do accurate testing with the strips. As noted earlier, you need to keep shocking & still may need lots of chlorine to get it clear & a good test kit will keep you from pulling your...

If your water is hazy, I would assume you still need to be shocking & keeping a higher level of chlorine than most test kits can test for. Last year, I ordered the TF100 from duraleigh, & it's a great value. It will test for the higher levels needed for shocking & with regular testing, being...

I would get some cya in the pool. I have the same size pool as you & also had next to none starting this year. Aiming for a level of 30, I hung 3 lbs tied in an old sock in front of the return, squishing it a couple times a day to help dissolve it. I started putting chlorine in right away to the...

Good addition to what I was trying to say Matt..

It is perfectly normal for that to happen. Eventually enough air gets in the system that it disrupts the flow of water. Then by releasing the air on top, you are essentially bleeding the system of air. Like my previous message, my bet is that you have a suction side leak, sucking air in.

I would say you have a suction side leak somewhere. The best way to find it is to shut off the pump, & start looking for water leaking somewhere. It may be a stream, fast drip, or even just a wetness you feel that would eventually drip very slowly. If it takes a few hours for the flow to stop &...

Not to confuse you, but if you wanted to keep filtering while you top off the water, you could hook a couple of hose sections to your AquaCritter, let it sink in the pool, not much hose to bleed air out of, take out your skimmer basket & run the hose into the suction hole at the bottom of the...

where was the water level at, in relation to the mounting screws? Near the lower ones, I'm guessing?

I watch the small glass bulb, it will start out clear for a few seconds then go to green, rusty, etc., & stop when it clears up, usually about 30 seconds to a minute or more, depending how dirty the filter is. When my pool was really bad last year, it was at least a minute. A lot of water will...

in other words, water level is about 2/3rds up the skimmer hole.

I bet you just need to add more water. My skimmer has two screws on each side, as well as the top & bottom. I run my water to the top side screws for a water level. If I'm doing frequent backwashes, It will start sucking air at the skimmer if the level gets to the bottom screw. In other words, I...

Sounds like your on your way. Yeh, I bet the frogs are wondering whats going on!! They'll have to find a new home to survive. As far as chemicals, do you have a handle on what you need to add, & testing? I did alot of reading on here last year (very good people here) & finally made the switch to...

I backwash till the water clears up, then turn it to rinse for about 15 seconds, then back to filter. Be sure to shut off the pump before moving the lever to each position.

As far as backwashing, there's no set interval other than to keep an eye on the gauge and also feel the return flow into the pool, especially if you cant read your guage. When it feels like theres not much flow compared to when just after you backwash, then it's time. You'll be amazed at the...

I noticed you said your pressure gauge was foggy, hard to read? I'd replace it. Should be $10 or under. If you don't have a pool store close, a farm supply store that handles sprayer parts has the same gauge also.

Your pressure may run different with the underground lines (I like your setup), but with a clean filter, my running pressure usually is around 10-12. As things filter out, your pressure gauge will rise. At about 18-20#, I can feel the return flow is really slow. Then it's time to backwash. Keep...

For the first few days while shocking & getting balances right, I run mine 24/7. I'm gone during the day so I let it run all day, & then off at night, or vice versa, just depending what I feel like or if I'm putting chlorine or chems in, then definately have the pump running. Glad to hear it's...

oh, one more thing. Usually on startup, I set my valve to the backwash setting. That gets the crud out of the filter that sat over winter, & not possibly send it back to the pool, via the filter setting. It also seems to pull the water from the skimmer & fill the pump basket faster also, as...

Mine will do that on initial start up. Like zea3 said, make sure all plugs are out if there are any, & valves open. Even with water high enough, it seems to take a while to get all the air pushed out of the lines & filter. It will start flowing into the pump basket slowly at first, then...