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Thank you both. I didn't realize if my CSI was in range, I wouldn't need to push for each, individual number to also be in its respective range. This is great news.

Hi - this is first year since we've had pool that we've left it open over the winter. While Pool Math app indicates my CSI is acceptable -0.16, my TA has increased to a level it's never hit before (110). Removed SWCG and moved to liquid chlorine, like usual, during the off season. This is...

OK. Great suggestion. Yes. Am using the Poolmath app. My CSI is very close to 0. Hovers around 0.03, 0.05, etc.

Our first successful pool season has come to a close. Have replaced our SWG with dummy cell and taken readings. pH 7.8 (this was my SWG target) CH 450 (this has been consistent; hasn’t exceeded this level all swim season) TA 80 Should I be lowering my pH level closer to 7.5 now that the SWG...

So I ordered the TF-100 kit that comes with the basic, plastic storage box with compartments. Have since accumulated more stuff like the Taylor water sample tool, extra sample tubes, auto stirrer, etc. It is quickly cluttering up my workbench [emoji23] Has anyone found a good, portable storage...

Didn't realize CH of 225 was recommended. pool Math is telling me 250 to 350 for my pool parameters. I've been steady at 350 (newer plaster) and it hasn't suggested lowering it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was watching a YouTube video earlier on this Dr Meter pH 002. Said it's inexpensive since it's only calibrated to read water at 77F? Is that true? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jmastron, thanks!! That would be much appreciated. Is exactly what I was hoping to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK. Ran hose. Didn't see any water. Have no idea where it's going. Nevertheless I'll cap the top with something. Or at least a rag... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I poured some water into it and it never overflowed so must not be capped. Didn't see it go anywhere in particular so perhaps it's just draining under the surface? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also here is my Pool Miser autofill. No water source is connected to it yet back at the equipment pad. Just a conventional toilet float valve. Am not sure what the other white pipe in the center is? Is that an overflow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In this pic is there a reason why the valve is at a high point in the plumbing rather a lower point? Just curious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't connect our autofill yet. But will add a shutoff valve back at the equipment pad where the water source feeds it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jim, I do have an autofill in my pool deck. It's the simple, float valve version like a toilet fill valve. I believe if water level got too high, it would just come out the top of the Pool Miser cover and run off the deck. For that to happen the water level would have to get quite high. Well...

Now I am annoyed too [emoji51] am checking w PB to see if they would add it. The few times I've siphoned w small garden hose it takes forever. If I must go submersible pump, is there one you'd recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've not ever opened the drain plug as the base of my filter either. Currently don't have an ideal place to redirect water. It will flow to my neighbor's house. Was considering adding gravel around edge of equipment pad to create some sort of drainage for condensation from heater at least...

Here is my equipment pad. If you zoom in near pump, would it that small white "cap" to left of pump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New pool. Water level generally stays in center of waterline tile. Waterline tile is 6 inches, so 3 inches below the coping or center of skimmer opening. However we do not have any "overflow" drain that I'm aware of...or it's standard building practice that I'm just unaware of. When it rains...

Which Dr. Meter specifically? There are multiple on Amazon. Now I'd like one as red shades starting to look the same [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can someone link to a recommended pair. I've not worn protection or eyewear but definitely should. The fumes have been my biggest challenge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. Yes, it's the same. Mine too was outdoors in the nursery near pool chemicals about at a slight distance intentionally storing it away from liquid chlorine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is yours also clear with no noticeable odor at 31.45%? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The MA I got from Home Depot is the HDX brand and it's 31.45% - 20% baume. If it is in fact from 2013 then maybe they won't restock this strong stuff any longer but are trying to sell through it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks duraleigh. Wasn't aware. Good to know. Then I'll just use it as is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought some of this from Home Depot. It doesn't have the potent fumes of the MA from my pool store. Nor is it the yellowish color. How do you tell whether it's still effective? I want to say the label has 01/13 on label. Hoping that doesn't mean it was formulated in Jan 2013? HDX 2x1-Gallon...

Thanks - I will be doing this for now on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always add MA and bleach to a direct return stream in deep end of our pool. Haven't brushed the area after as it's usually a quick routine in morning before work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you very much. This is very helpful. I'll be sure to allow at least 15 mins between them from now on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: New build - Plano Texas Kimkats, per your comment earlier in this thread, what happens if MA and bleach are added without 15 mins in between? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kimkats, what happens when MA and chlorine are added in one after the other without 15 min in between? I certainly don't combine them but do typically add them in morning before leaving for work. In relatively small amounts (6 oz bleach, 20 oz MA). Seems I've been able to maintain levels.