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What Mr. Knauss said. You definitely need CYA. Also liquid chlorine is hard to find in some places right now. If you can’t find it where you’re at, calcium hypochlorite is a good option. You have some wiggle room as far as your calcium hardness is concerned.

Your ozone system isn't going to cause any problems, but the effects of an ozone system in an outdoor pool are negligible at best, simply because the sun is doing the same thing for you that the ozone system will do, albeit, much more quickly.

Go with your readings. Your TA is fine at 70.

Well, you can SLAM now and then you may not have to do it later. Or, you can close in a week and SLAM when you open.

Well, first off, you can't really rely on your pH reading too much because you took the sample from water that wasn't circulating. The water really needs to be circulating for a while before you can reliably draw an accurate sample. Secondly, the temperature of the water makes a big difference...

If you are wanting to get your FC up to 8 ppm, that seems about right.

Welcome to TFP! Just keep using the liquid and you'll be good. :goodjob:

Borates will buffer the pH changes and you will need to add acid less frequently than you do now. But, you don't want to add borates until you have your TA exactly where you want it to be because once those borates are in there, it is almost impossible to budge your TA at that point. Lower...

Re: Phosphates High, Pool Store says to Drain some water. HE Welcome to TFP! You need your own high quality test kit. Pool store test results are geared towards having you buy things from them. Not to fix your problems. With a proper test kit, we can tell you what to do to fix your...

Tablets are good to have for when you go out of town or something and aren't able to add bleach.

I will typically target 1 to 2 over the target FC listed on the Chlorine/CYA chart.

Damage to the eyes is the main threat to your person. On the skin, even at 32% strength, doesn't really burn unless it comes into contact with an open sore or something. I've gotten a drop or two on my skin many times. I'll just set the container down, walk over to a water source, and rinse...

I haven't heard of really any problems with a borate level of 80. Maybe someone else can relate some. Since you have a DE filter, it'll go down over time through backwashing.

Not sure how you got your CYA level reading of 106 as readings from the test are in increments of 10, 100 being the maximum that it will result to, but given a CYA of 100, safe levels are no lower than 7.

If you cannot isolate your skimmers and pull water from a main drain only, the best way to do it is to turn the pump off and use a submersible pump to drain water. They can be rented from Home Depot for about 20 to 30 dollars. They also work a lot faster than using your little hosebib thing on...

Perhaps it's better than nothing at all for a couple of days.

We recommend that SWCG pools maintain a CYA level between 60 and 80 ppm.

Another component of your high pH issues has to do with the fact that you are running an SWCG. Even after your plaster has cured, you will be contending with pH rise because of the mere fact that you are operating your SWCG. It won't be near to the degree that you are chasing it from the...

Hopefully, you got some half strength CYA and that is the cause of your situation. Do you happen to have an auto-fill on your pool though? Sometimes, the presence of an auto-fill can mask a leak that is causing your CYA to drop.

The OTO test is a good way to tell whether you have chlorine in the pool or not. It does not differentiate between FC and CC though. Only the FAS-DPD can do that. Best to use the FAS-DPD for daily testing, especially during times of heavy use.

Not sure what the reagent in the salt test is, but that looks like silver chloride staining.

Welcome to TFP! I'm guessing that your issue is that you cannot seem to keep your FC level up? How does the water look? To shock your pool involves much more than putting a bag of granulated chlorine into the pool and calling it good. Shocking is a process that is carried out. To shock your...

Re: Calculating pH Impact of Cal-Hypo, Bleach, & Other Chlor Calcium hypochlorite and bleach are essentially pH neutral.

A TA of 70 is not very low.

Welcome to TFP! You really need a good test kit in order to properly manage your pool. Many people here have the TF-100, found only at tftestkits.net. You can also get a Taylor K-2006 in various places online.

Just shock the pool. Keep it at shock level for 3 or 4 days while running the filter 24/7. You should be okay. This is not an uncommon problem.

Wouldn't hurt. Also, just to be sure. One's CYA can also start disappearing if you have a leak. Folks who use autofills and are noticing a trending downward in their CYA can also suspect a leak. The only way to lose CYA aside from a loss over the winter in a closed pool is for it to be...

Welcome to TFP! Are you using a drop-based test kit? Just want to be sure about your numbers. Disregard the advice about your CH. As you mentioned previously, you have a vinyl pool and therefore, low CH doesn't really affect anything. Is the water cloudy or is it clear and sparkly, but...

It is recommended that you replace the reagents yearly, but if you have kept your kit inside and away from temperature extremes, you can go beyond a year and be ok. Three years though? Not so sure about that. The dye related chems that are found in the CH and TA tests are usually the first to...

One or two tablets don't add that much. I try to test at the same time of day and with the same conditions while standing in the same spot. Because the test is so dependent on the amount of light entering the tube from the sides, it is important that the light during testing is consistent in...