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Pull the manifold and replace the bypass. manifold is easier to reassemble if you remove the thermal by-pass first and replace last. FYI, the heater in the video has got/had a low Ph condition, OR too high of flow (stripping the copper).

Don't think a valve knob will work for you given the location(s). That appears to be a relatively small hole. You may be able to get an eyeball type (without the eyeball) insider fitting in 1/2". You MAY be able to get it in black, but i wouldn't hold out much hope for anything other than...

Those look like air holes for the jets. I only see those in older pools. That is the way they used to do the air for the jets. Would also see small holes in the deck just above the jet for the same purpose.

At 20 years, the gearbox is probably worn to the point where the shaft has developed too much play and now interferes with the function of the switches.

Im guessing that this is a portable tub that is supposed to be hot all the time. MAYBE when the water drained out the heating element continued to heat to the point where it tripped a high limit that is not an auto reset type, meaning you have to track it down, and push the little red button to...

I agree with Bruce. I think water is coming out of the slits because there is something obstructing the jet opening. Not completely obstructing, just enough to disrupt the water flow, and cause a back up of water. With the disruption, there is no where else for the water to go but up the air...