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Can you post the video of the leak?

Did you ever say what the multiport setting is?

Can you post a picture of the equipment so we can see the valves? Did you have a hydrostatic valve installed and are you certain it was plugged before the fill? Leaks in new pools are fairly uncommon and when they do occur it's usually something pretty simple. Hopefully that's the case for yours.

Closing a pool in Riverside?!?! The only thing you need to close are the umbrellas...

Nope and how would you later excavate it without damaging the finish? 25 years is an excellent lifespan on a pool surface anyway. Do you just not want to do the repairs now or???? If I never used my pool again I'd still want to keep it because I enjoy seeing it... in fact I think I enjoy...

What size aggregate? I know a guy that sells Pebbles to all of the plaster installers in the area. He told me that SCP even buys from him on occasion.

:goodjob: You're gonna like how it turns out

Be prepared to put in some work and the diamond pads are pricey and don't last all that long. The trick is to get the water flow just right to create a slurry. Too much water just washes all that lubricating cream away and too little will smoke the disks. Aquavations makes a pressure washer...

Then that's just other tip in the direction of bicarb then... The alkalinity gets measured in ppm CaCO3 but there isn't actually calcium present to sequester, other that what was already in the water correct? I'm my eyes you get the +CSI/LSI with minimal chance of scale and the silly temperate...

Retired!!!!

On the topic of the chelating/sequestrant agents - have you ever looked in to seeing if the very thing that inhibits scale also inhibits the effectiveness of the +CSI/LSI during the startup? I see no benefit to the Orenda method since adding calcium can cause a whole slew of issues if not done...

A cleaner should be fine to use after 7-10 days but don't expect the quartz to be exposed overnight...it will be a long process

A bicarbonate startup won't expose the aggregate at all like an acid bath will. Just due to the way the aggregate finishes are installed you may end up with a very uneven and blotchy appearance without mechanical or chemical exposure. Any chance you can talk them in to polishing it instead?

Now is fine. It shouldn't do much to the TA, in fact I'd be surprised if it lowers the TA at all

Either one is fine and neither will hurt anything. I like trichlor for startups because it's really simple and is pretty much hands off. Going the CYA,/liquid chlorine way is fine too but try not to raise the FC level above 10% of the CYA level.

Every source of chlorine adds salt to some extent but not nearly enough to be of any concern. Your fill water probably contains 50ppm of salt anyway. Trichlor is acidic so it will slowly lower pH and TA. Your calcium level is low so if you choose not to increase it then you will need to raise...

Interesting setup that the main drain is shared by the suction and return side. I assume that is for a deep return for use with the heat pump. As for priming the pump, the valves are in the correct positions so as long as the plugs are removed and you fill the pump basket with water, you should...

How long do you have to maintain the Wet Edge parameters?

New sheriff in town eh??? Congrats!

Location has a lot to do with rainfall and evaporation rates. Areas with low rainfall and high evaporation shouldn't add calcium but rather maintain a slightly higher TA to keep the CSI from being so far negative until the CH naturally rises

I just thought I'd follow up on the entire process. I have really learned a great deal since the initial fill and given the chance to go through the process again, I would make a few changes. The 500 -TA - CH formula works well for the initial amount of Bicarbonate to add but past that point...

My TA is 70 now so that is probably the reason for the discrepancy. With: PH 7.8 Ch 350 Cya 80 TA 70 Salt 3500 50 ppm borates I'm getting -.37. This is more than likely where I'm going to keep things. I am still in the process of getting everything into balance after the start up which is why...

I was able to get the pH to 7.5 over night and I added 30 pounds of calcium to get me to 300. My plan is to let the pH rise to 7.8, get the CH to 350 and then add the boric acid. I'll try keeping the CH between 350 and 400 just to give me a little more of a margin on the CSI scale. I should be...

I did mean negative 0.52. Sorry for the confusion. I am using a swg. I don't see how the CSI would come up as long as I keep the values where they are now unless you are talking about a gradual CH rise and pH rise from the swg?

Even with ph 7.6, ta at 60, salt at 3500, ch at 450, and 50 ppm borates, the CSI is 0.52. Isn't that way too low?

Thank you. Perhaps I'll shoot for 400 once I'm certain there is no issue with my calcium test. As always, I am very thankful for all of the advice. I was not aware of the post for revised levels in swg pools. Perhaps that should be a sticky or the recommended levels should be updated

I'll post a picture of the bottle when I get home. My kit is only two months old. Is that odd? If it is bad would it cause a lower reading? I have a waterfall, spa and spillway. Aeration is unavoidable. I would prefer the TA to be lower but that may make more of an issue. Per the water...

What about borates then? Should my target for TA be 60? 80? Will my CH rise on its own or do I need to add more calcium? I am still suspect of my CH test. How can I check the accuracy? The R011L bottle is stained... Is that normal? I have used 3 different sources for the R0010 so I know...

This seems to be exactly what I'm experiencing. So if it comes down to it, what do you recommend? My fill water is at least 8.2 High calcium with borates Calcium within TFP guidelines and no borates Higher TA with borates and calcium within TFP range It was 28 pounds, my mistake. Could the...

The pool has been up and running for a little over a month now. My current readings: FC - 4 PH - 7.2 (to lower TA) TA - 90 CH - 275 CYA - 40 I haven't kept track but I am pretty sure I've used well over 60 gallons of acid to get to this point. My PH was never allowed to go over 8 or under 7.8...