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Just went over and signed up with Texas Pressure Washing. $3.51/gal (tax included). A little more expensive than the old Napco prices, but still well worth it for 12.5% LC. Very convenient location for me as well.

Bad news for those in the Spring, TX region. We used to have Napco as a cost effective bulk bleach supplier. Recently they were bought out by Hawkins; a national chemical company. They continued drive up bleach supply for a couple of months but now have shut it down entirely. So now we are left...

Thanks, I'll get my multimeter out and go through all those tests.

I don't shutdown either. I prepared for the store by pulling the drains on my Swim Jet pumps to drain them. I kept the pool pump and waterfall pumps primed as they are on a freeze protection program. Of course the power went out a 2am and the freeze protection was moot. Fortunately I got to...

Turned on my Spa & heater today and the heater did not start. Checked the display and it had "Service heater' light on. Popped the hood and the AFS light was on. Made sense because the blower was not running. Opened the blower to check for nests, totally clean and spins freely. Poked my phone...

I picked up a 10 pack of uln2803A.

Yeah, I have stashed 6 more of those arrays in an antistatic envelope in the panel behind the mainboard with a note for myself or the next owner.

Transistors in. Powered up board. No tripping. Powered down and connected all the sensors, controls and relays. Powered all breakers up. No tripping. Tried to turn on pump. Nothing. Well, not nothing, swearing. Opened up panel a stared menacingly at the board with my best Clark Griswold...

Checking online, is there a difference between uln2803A and uln2803APG I need to be aware of? They appear to list them interchangeably.

Soooo, with the uln2803's removed, the mainboard powers up and does not trip the 3A 18V breaker. I get several LEDs lighting up; Auto, Pool, Filter Pump & a flashing one indicating I should check the indoor control panel. So does that mean if I bought a new set of uln2803's I might breath new...

I checked out the relays per Jim's direction. They are all about equal @ 8 Ohms. I have labelled and popped the uln2803's and will hook it back up to the power in the morning. As for curent draw, something over 3A (hence the breaker popping). I am not sure I will be able to measure the actual...

With all the relays disconnected from the mainboard I still get the tripping. So the although there may be a relay problem, there is also something else on the mainboard. One way or the other the mainboard is getting all three voltage power feeds (Connection tested with multimeter) and when it...

Well, that rules out the Transformer. Red pair have 24V, Blue pair have 12V, Orange Pair 18V. All seems ok there.

Thanks Jim, It certainly points in that direction. As I only trip the 18VAC breaker, can I put a multimeter across those 2 wires coming from the Transformer and validate they are in fact delivering that? I don't want to add to my woes by cooking something else that was ok.

As you can see, the singe mark does not equate to a matching burn on actual PCB.

Followed your diagnostic tests and found is tripped with only the Power connected. Looked closer @ board and saw some toast marks on the panel. Removed the board, but did not see anything that corresponded to it on the PCB itself. I seem to remember I had a board replaced soon after install and...

Pool pumps did not run yesterday so I went to check out what it might be, finding the low voltage circuit breaker tripped for the relays. Reset it and it tripped again. Checked & tested breakers and found the Main Filter Pump breaker would not trip when I pushed the ground fault test button. So...

I use the 7 gal blue potable water jugs designed for camping. Had a pair since I built the pool. Replaced the spouts once. (Reliance Products Aqua-Tainer 7 Gallon Rigid Water Container - AMAZON)

Tune up day. A few #s of CA to bump up the hardness, a couple of socks full of CYA to bring up my Stabilizer levels. Water still a touch brisk for my liking but it is warming up. Certainly warm enough for poolside ?

Napco @ Spring,TX. BYO containers, $24 for 14 gal of fresh 11.5% bleach. ? drop!

My spillway does have the same tile under the spillway. All of miner is some form of travertine. The stacked stone is the same travertine as my coping except with a hand chipped edge. My waterline tile is a small 1"x2" travertine of a darker mixed color.

Sure will. It will be a little weaker. You will just have to retest after using it to work out how much weaker.

Pool volume was my discrepancy when I started. I began with what the pool builder said and then corrected my expectation based on TA and FC adjustment results. Now I have it dialed in, I get the expected result from and given chemical adjustment. Having a consistent bleach supplier helps...

If, at the time you sampled, the pool had not been circulating for a while, you may have got a suppressed FC level due to your sample not being from homogeneous pool water.

I have always got my bleach from a bulk chemical supplier so it's availability is not seasonal and it is a higher concentration. I never close my pool. When water temp is 60 or below the FC consumption gets really low. I also go onto a shorter filter cycle once leaves have stopped dropping.

Well we did well for Harvey, buying in the high point of our neighborhood paid off. Spent the entire next week and weekends helping gut peoples houses. Having 25 gal of 12% bleach was a godsend for making some of those houses sanitary. As most southerners know bleach isn't the solution for mold...

That will slowly bring it back up, very slowly. That said, there is no harm using all those tabs up over the long term. When you run out of tabs you can make the last adjustment with some powdered stabilizer. I just had to do that with Harvey.

Welcome Dodger. Your pool appreciates you.