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Recommendations on VSP's? I assume I should stick with Hayward to work with the Aqua Logic (PL-Plus) Controller? Thanks

You can definitely do this!! Easy and risk free. Since it is a new build, it would be prudent to talk with the builder to confirm there will not be any warranty issues opening yourselves.

I do not have any special flow requirements, just basic rectangle. I had considered VS before, but all my research has always led me back to the 2 spd since my energy is reasonable priced. Also, I think the 2 spd will be able to be controlled by the AuqaLogic (PL Plus from memory) controller...

Hello again, thanks in advance for the help. Last fall, just before I closed the pool up my motor seized. I replaced the capacitor with no success. I am now in the market for a replacement. I would prefer to replace like for like with the exception of upgrading to a 2 speed motor. I...

Hello, I would start with retesting your CYA. Take a sample, then place it indoors to warm up to room temp, then retest CYA. This test is fine to wait for a while after grabbing a sample. Unfortunately, because you can't pin point your CYA and because "haven't been testing the chlorine so much...

Have you tried holding a garden hose over the valve? You can let the water run over each connection point (and handle) on the valve and skimmer and see if that helps "seal" the leak. Shaving cream can be used to find a pin hole as well. I would not be concerned with the sharp turn in the...

The general consensus has been to try and manage the water level to keep it to your winter levels, i.e. keep draining it. This is to try and keep the ice from adding stress to those place it can get stuck on I believe. If you can, I would try to drain some water although if there is already ice...

Companies have different published minimum gpm requirements as well. I believe Hayward's is 15 gpm minimum flow rate while circupool's is 25 gpm. It has been a bit since I looked this up, but I hedged and went with a Hayward for when I switch to 2 speed pump some day. Maybe a bit unfounded by...

I think this has been noted before on the forum and that it was written off to oils and such to prevent rust on the unit prior to start up. I would pay attention to it, but I wouldn't be overly worried about it either. This assumes your rat-proofing isn't made of plastic ;)

Oops, sorry. Clearly I read pressure side, but was thinking suction side the whole time.

One way - If it is near enough the surface and pulls hard enough, it can create a vortex which would allow air to enter the system. Similar to the 'tornado' you get draining the bathtub sometimes.

Rarely known phenomenon, but happens unfortunately. I doubt the ban will be effective, but good to think of what you are doing when help isn't near. U.S. swimming pools ban long breath-holding after deaths | Reuters

Cloudiness will be cured with persistence. Keep up the hard work, keep FC at SLAM levels and keep running your pump 24/7. Backwash only after a 25% rise in pressure from your 'clean' pressure (pressure right after you backwash)...a dirty filter filters the best at least it starts to prevent flow.

If you weren't overthinking it, you wouldn't belong on this forum ;) I would suggest the higher target of 8 as you learn your pool - always better to be a touch high while you dial everything in and learn. 5 ppm is a bit high for the day, but with many factors in play certainly not impossible...

I'm new to the thread so forgive me here, but are you confident in your testing and reagents? I just noticed for a month, whether adding chlorine or not, your FC has always been 2 ppm. Just hit me as strange reading through it.

Most pet/fish stores have a basic Ammonia test you can use to confirm presence. I don't know if you can calculate an expected ammonia level from that or not.

I think it has something, or a lot, to do with volumes. I think when most folks use antifreeze they are using a couple of gallons at most. I try to get antifreeze in the low points of the piping where water may collect. 40-50 gallons is a whole different animal and I think is very atypical...

Hello, a fourth option is to look into a robot cleaner. Search for threads by Geebot for his reviews of robots. This is a more expensive option, but the reviews are good and the ability to clean the pool without running any pumps can save a lot of money. Sorry - please ignore. I got...

Any damage should be limited to the pump itself running dry. Hopefully the flow switch in the salt cell saw the loss of flow and turned itself off. The only way to be sure is to fill the pump strainer basket with water, which may refill some piping too taking a lot of water, and then try the...

Here is the process for lowering TA, it is an extended process as you do not want to add too much MA at one time and drop pH below 7.0. TA will drop fairly quickly with each MA addition but then pH rise will start to slow letting you use less and less MA until you reach a balance of sorts...

You will get good advice, but with a in-ground pool I believe they have to be hardwired or cord must be less than 3' and slotted plug. But easy enough, you can hardwire them right to the timer simply enough. The link below provides a good overview of code relative to NEC, but your house might...

Sounds good and again wasn't trying to butt in. I just bought one and with my pool I can do a thorough vacuum 2x before the battery starts to die. Recharging seems quite fast too, less than a few hours.

Pool Blaster Max, like a dust buster for the pool. Works great, just attaches to a pole and push it around. I'm ignoring the iron deposits as those are questionable (without any judgement) and any material on the bottom should be picked up either way. Just look for a fine debris bag, which I...

Multiport Valve is part of the sand filter with the handle that selects the filter options; backwash, filter, rinse, recirculate, closed, winterized. This is separate from the check valve. If the gasket is bad inside the multiport valve (MPV), then water can trickle/flow into your backwash...

Same thing, just semantics generally at a different concentration as you note. 2 gals a day (~9ppm) might be a bit much but just a thought. Liquid chlorine is much better than anything powered at this point not knowing your CYA or CH. Recommend maintain the bleach until that test kit shows up.

Does the FC consumption considered normal? Chlorine - Free Chlorine - FC. Calcium Hardness - CH. 2 - 4 ppm FC loss per day is typical. In your environment, you could try raising the CYA levels a bit provided you are sure there is no algae present. Generally recommend adding FC daily to limit...

All opinions here, but ditch the store. CH will not hamper your acid. Lowering TA is a drawn out process, similar to what you have been doing but over the course of weeks. CH will not hamper your acid additions. Metal out is good when it is required, it is not for CH. I would use your K-2006...

That is a special size meant to hold the "eye" for the return. You will want to remove the entire fitting pictured above and thread your fountain directly to the 1.5" thread. I don't think you will find any adapter to fit it.

Is there a manual valve that they can affix a tag or lock too? Maybe you could close the valve for a week, monitor the water level and then reassess based on that. Might be a good exercise just to rule out a leak for you anyway for a couple of days. Just my thoughts.

I am a bit biased as I have a personal vendetta against river rock. The folks that owned my house before me laid it everywhere when it was in vogue then covered it up with mulch when they wanted a different look. Planting flowers or any kind of work in the flower beds is annoying as digging...