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Leak is gone. Changed the gasket between the motor and wet end. It runs hot. Infrared thermo has the barrel ranging from 180 at the ends to 215 in the middle. Can’t touch it for more than a second.

Got the pump going. The inverted V timing thing had come off. Pump still leaks and runs awfully hot. Could it be a gasket or an O ring? I only changed the seal. When I first started it for the year the shaft was stuck but I twisted it a few times and it soins freely.

Replaced the seals and now the pump after 5 seconds of operation just hums. Any ideas?

Just got home after away for a day. Pump is leaking and super hot to touch so getting the seal today. Unless you think it’s already damaged?

Ok so I didn’t cause I wanted to get the thing going. Could you let me know which ones I need to replace and I’ll get them and take it off again. It’s a Hayward Superpump 1HP

Spring start up and the pump shaft was stuck from winter corrosion. Took off the motor to free it up. Could not get it to budge with the back cap off. Anyway, the pool store told me I’d need all new seals anytime the motor is removed from the pump housing. Is this correct?

Just so I know before speaking with Hayward, in theory, can high ph cause a leak in a heat exchanger? I can see understand scaling and reduced efficiency but it's not corrosive. I was looking and haven't found anything about leaking heat exchangers unless it's low ph.

I'm going to absolutely redo the setup for the piping. I'm going to also price out the raypak. Are the older model Hayward junk too?

Hayward sent a local tech and before looking at anything said its water chemistry. Told him I'd already learned my lesson on that so I'd like him to look closer. He took it apart and checked the install. Said it wasn't 'best practice'. The water flow sensor isn't where it should be. No check...

Turned it on and it lit. Leak started.

So I got home today and for the first time since the weekend the leak stopped. I know it was pool water because the test strip I put in the drip changed to match one dipped in the pool. So I'm not sure why it was a heavy leak for four days and now nothing. The heater hasnt been run since...

Yep I'll post it tonight.

Spoke to Hayward. They are sending someone to look and diagnose if it's actually a leak. At first they wanted me to pay for it and I said if this was a one off I would. Given its the fourth time I don't need to pay someone $200-300 to learn my heat exchanger is leaking. Hayward guy said a...

It's a leak. It's dripping out of it constantly now.

Any chance anyone has a Hayward installation manual from 2009? I'd like to know if the requirement for a check valve was in the manual when my pool was built.

So here's the thing. When I had the heater replaced, Hayward sent a tech to inspect my install to see if there was an issue with it. Checked for bonding and water flow etc. Never said a word about a check valve. Is that a legitimate gripe I have with them or just replace it and get a check valve...

Spoke with a pool guy tonight that asked if I had a check valve installed between my heater and salt cell. I don't. The distance between the cell and the heater is about 6 inches. He says he guarantees that's what's ruining my heat exchangers. Sound accurate to anyone here? Was that always in...

I thought the cupro nickel was for salt systems. Is that wrong?

It is. Why? - - - Updated - - - Know a place in the GTA that has great prices on heaters?

So let's say you're correct and I think you are. Can you just change the HE if the insulation and foamy stuff is all full of water damage? It sounds like all you did. What kind of chemistry were you keeping? The only number that drifts on mine is the CL level.

Which would explain no chemicals in the tested water but not explain the lack of a continuous leak.

So I turned it on this morning. Water was 80 and the outside temp about 75. 20 mins in the concrete pad has a healthy stream going. I put another test strip in the stream and saturate it. No color change. I take the back panel off and you can visibly see condensation on the walls. I've...

So here's the thing. Pool school recommends 70 CYA and 5 ppm target FC. Hayward recommends 1-3 ppm of CL. If you're beyond 3 as pool school suggests are you not causing sanitizer damage to your heater? We know Hayward will say so. What level of FC is too much on a continual basis?

Haven't run the heater in five days. No leaks. Turned it on tonight. The water was 75. I'd say the air temp is about 65. It's been leaking since. Pretty wet puddle enough to put a test strip in (I know they aren't great but I couldn't capture enough to use the drop test) and it didn't change...

Hasn't leaked all day. Was just this morning. If the there's a hole in the HE shouldn't it leak constantly?

Our pool build was in 2009. We've had the heater replaced twice already and today I noticed it leaking again. This one is 4 years old. Its the H250 electronic ignition. When the heater runs the leak seems to stop. I imagine when it cools the leak will return. The history is the first was...

Don't know what I did but I got it:). Tried three things at once so I can't tell