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Hi Todgeist, For my 2 cents worth......When I used Bromine, I got what you are getting. At that time I was not measuring Calcium Hardness and other vitals with any sort of accuracy. I discovered this site and the first thing I invested in was a Taylor kit....I switched back to Chlorine using the...

Question, Doesn't having an ozonator also accelerate FC usage? If so and a hot tub is equipped so.....would turning this off during an extended vacation help the situation?

The calculator is the greatest application developed. Ever since I joined (3 years ago) and began using this tool, I have basically had a trouble free hot tub with uncanny predictability during on-going/regular maintenance of the chemicals. Barry

Did you ever use Spa System Flush or do a superchlorination when you first got your spa? If not, then perhaps there are biofilms from the wet-testing of the spa at the factory and that the foaming is coming from there since it's worst when the spa jets are on (of course, foaming in general is...

It is good $ well spent considering the potential cost down the road due to scale build-up on equipment ie heating elements. Try that angle. :wink: Barry

I agree with the TA level too high for a tub - target 50-60 to keep PH drift rate down while adjusting CH to keep water in balance. Also, what is your Chlorine source? Dichlor, bleach, etc? Your FC should not be eaten up so quickly which means either CYA is too high (exclusively using dichlor)...

Yes and yes. A prolong power outage would be a concern since we dont have a backup generator. I would imagine I would drain then add anti-freeze and hope for the best.

We live in northern Ohio...its gets cold but rarely as cold as -20. I never close and winterize our tub. As long as the wind is calm, we pretty much use it below freezing temps. I would think it would be more of pain to drain and insure all the water is out of the pumps. During long stretches...

My tub has an ozonator. I would also recommend leaving it hooked up. My FC consumption is minimal (see attached log) and our usage is about what yours is. However, with that being said when or if it quits working, I probably will not replace it since the BBB method has served me well ever since...

I dont know if adding Borates would help he situation or not - may be worth a try? Barry

I have been using the dichlor-then bleach method for over a year. I also use a mineral stick which I've read you can keep the FC lower 2- 5 range (which concurs with the CYA/Chlorine chart for sanitizing effectiveness with CYA 30-40). I agree about the inaccuracy of he test strips especially...

Thanks for the reply......... So it may be a phosphate build-up issue in a relatively low volume container coupled with higher temps?

Just curious. :shock: I know about the formula that calc's usage vs when to drain and re-fill but what actually happens to water quality if you don't fresh-fill your hot tub accordingly? If pools can go all season why not hot tubs - if balance and key numbers are maintained? Barry

Sounds like it could be calcium or lime buildup from the water that was left in the pumps or heater for those couple of years even though the tub was emptied. Flakes eventually coming loose. Again, before I learned about this site I had my water tested at the store and they didn't even care...

Agree - it does get easier and predictable. My current CH is 225 which I live with as long as I keep the TA with the target goal range and maintain control of the PH. I favor a negative CSI but still balanced to avoid scaling since my last Hot tub had alot of calcium buildup in my lines (prior...

Nice numbers to start with, Adrian. The calculator is awesome for sure. Did you use the "traditional spa" option to plug in the suggested goal levels? takes the guess work out of it all and ensures water balance (CSI). Also, PH Down is dry acid and you will find you will periodically have to add...

Hi Adrian, First thing I would do is to test all key factors of the fresh fill to see what's needed to balance the water first. Use the pool calculator to make the necessary adjustments for the TA, PH, CH. I would then follow the advice you've been reading from Mod squad. The Pool School forum...

I don't know if adding enzymes (Scumbuster or the like) will oxidize the stuff so it can be filtered out over time or not but I use it on a two-week interval along with a scumball to prevent waterline formation from ever happening. Barry

Seems unusual to have that much demand over a 24 hr period without something in the tub that the chlorine is consuming. The smell could be related to the combined chlorine (CC) being high which also could substantiate a contaminate. What is the hardness level - CH? How old is your filter? I only...

It works for me - however it would depend on how much sand you need to suck up. Barry

I have a "grit gitter" http://images.spadepot.com/shop/images/ ... c1033f.jpg

Definitely need a good test kit before doing anything especially with PH. The only issue I would suspect with high Chlorine level having effect on spa would be a fading or discoloration of the knobs or controllers to blowers. Does the water have a distinct smell of chlorine? Since 2 weeks went...

I have been using the methods prescribed here for over a year. Chem Geek is exactly spot on. I also have been using a silver ion cartridge and have no issues with cloudy water - I only shock after extreme heavy use and the FC stays very consistent with minimal bleach additions during non-use...

Welcome, I poured a concrete slab (make sure its level and stable). Also had to put in a 60 amp breaker with ground fault protector. Two people can move it with a dolly. Depending how old it is and the move, I would check for leaks before filling it all the way. Chemicals are relatively cheap -...

I buy Scum Buster (enzyme formula) from on-line store (Spa Depot) http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Care-Maintenance-C57.aspx For Borates - 2 ways: 20 mule team borax but you have to also counter with acid since it will raise PH and TA (40 to 50 ppm) the pool calculator can determine how much to...

I would use borates to stabilize the PH for sure. Also, shocking with bleach before you leave, lastly treat with enzymes weekly to help with the stuff the kids bring in from the lake. With bromine metering dispenser and the above it should stay clear and scum free. Barry

Did you check to see if outlet hoses btw the pumps and the jets to see if they have a gate valve on them - it may be shutting off the flow since you said 80% have never worked.

That's what I would do using a long level on top rim on all four edges (if square shell) to get a feel for where the water level will be after fill. Barry

Can you send a picture of this? I might have the same issue but not sure what your specific issue is and the procedure. Thanks

I always thought the purpose was to help keep the cover's liner from pitting due to the initial heavy concentration of chlorine. (My previous tub's cover did this which caused flakes dropping into the tub)