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So my drop test shows salt 2200 ppm, and my SWG shows 3300 salt / 3100 instant salt. Because the SWG "thinks" the salt is near the desired 3200 the "high salt/low salt" lights are not on. But I think I should trust my drop test and add salt. Does the forum agree? PS I'll clean my SWG at the end...

If they don't have a salt meter, then where is it getting the values for the display that shows "3200" as the "average salt reading" and when I press the diagnostic button 5 times I get to the "Instant Salt Reading" which is usually close to the same number?

A Hayward Turbocell. The display is a simple salt ppm value, like "3200"

Is there any reason to get the salt kit with chromate indicator and silver nitrate reagent for measure salt levels if my SWG (salt water generator) has a salt level display on it?

Hi all, My daughter has found that swimming in friend's salt water pools helps her skin eczema greatly. We do not have a SWG. Is there any reason why I couldn't just add 3,000 ppm of salt to my pool without a SWG? I would also keep a Zinc ball (sacrificial Zinc anode) in the skimmer basket just...

The pool store guy took about 3 seconds to get each vial into the computer and get a readout; So, no, the CYA test did not develop for 3 minutes.

Just to be complete, the pool store was using a computerized test kit. The pool guy filled a syringe with my sample pool water, and proceeded to punch the syringe through the paper covers of 6 to 8 square vials with different reagents in them. He then put each square vial in turn into a computer...

I just measured my pool with the TF 100 testkit: [Edit to correct name of testkit:Butterfly] :wink: Free Chlorine: 3.5 Total Chlorine: 4.0 pH: 6.6 Total Alk: 50 Cyanuric Acid: off the chart, somewhere around 150 Seeing the total alkalinity and pH are very low, I started by adding a 6 lb bag of...

Definitely the pump. I stuck my head in between the pump and the filter to be sure where it was coming from. Oh, I forgot in my sad saga, my multiport dumped a few feet of water out the backwash port until I got home and shut it off. I replaced the spider (wagon-wheel) gasket to fix it. All in...

My pump has started making a rattling noise. It sounds like it's shaking dice. After a couple of weeks of a low rattling noise, today it turned the volume to 11. I'm afraid the pump is going to die. Should I try to open the plumbing and free whatever is stuck in there, or is this 'cavitation'...

I just learned what the "Liquidator" is. So I'll add that to the discussion. What about a liquid chlorine feeder instead of a TriChlor tablet feeder?

I understand from the consensus here that using Trichor tabs in an automatic feeder will eventually raise CYA too much. But what is the alternative? I work long hours during the week and tend to the pool on the weekends, so I can't be manually measuring chlorine levels and adding bleach daily...

I need to replace my cracked Hayward in-line chlorinator. I've read recommendations in this forum and on PoolSolutions.com for the Pentair Rainbow (Ben Powell's favorite). However 100% of pool store people I've asked have recommend the Hayward. Can anyone recommend one over the other and why...