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OMG! no Cal hypo is really basic! but good explanation none the less that while add liquid or cal the pH will rise and then drop back down to the original level once the CL has diminished. And as you say it is an elegant way of saying adding bleach 'is' effectively pH neutral because the pH...

oh ok i was just curious because if someone SLAMS a pool.... say with Cal Hypo because of the nature of Cal being 'basic' the TFT forum say to drop pH to very low 7's because adding the CL will raise the pH automatically with the SLAM sized Cal hypo in the water that part i understand...

while SLAMMING i get that... ill drop it down to 7 or so on the pH... The pool is fine as far as chlarity and all that but... my CL has to remain high because i do have 50 PPM CYA and it is an outdoor pool in Mexico where the sun is near 0 degree straight up quite strong. Back to the point...

From reading the Forum here, you cannot accurately measure pH beyond 10 ppm of CL, that much i understand. In one of the Forums, there are several methods to circumnavigate around the problem. One of them is by diluting the test sample (1:1 ratio) with distilled (only distilled!) water...

1.5 kilowatts = 5,000 btu's more or less . so to raise it 1 degree, could it do it in 6 hours one day and then by the weeks end 30 hours later, 5 degrees and then hold it to that, could it do it without killing it? or is heat evaporation faster than it can generate?

id like to add an electric hot water heater. all i need to do is heat the water 5 or 6 degrees F. i have 7,500 gall pool. or 60,000 BTU's to heat it 1 F. it only gets cold down to 65 F but 85 during the day ... so the water ends up around 70 F mean ave. id like to get it up to 80 F. if i put an...

great ! thank you. i read or i'm still reading the post he left me ( the graphs from his previous post). I guess all that is condensed into the Pool Calculator or Pool Math for you, as it were. BTW, 7 day into the Slamming, water is 95 ~ 97% clear, i'm brushing it 3 ~ 5 times a day to get the...

one last question.. if the cya is around 50 and the FC's are between 5 ~ 7 wouldnt that also give an artificially high pH reading?

reading chem geek's last reply is something i know now thanks. sorry for the mis-information

I thought heat would shorten the life span of chemicals, obviously the sun would be the worst yea. I heard reagents only have a shelf life of a 1 year, so knowing that, i figured storing then in a refrigerator would help prolong the life of them.

testing TA,CH, can it be done during the Slam process or will the high CL interfere with it?

of course! the kit gives you a proper basis or proper starting point and able to monitor the critical phase of Slamming. The kit i had is a not a Taylor test kit but a version of it in a foreign country called Spin. the company attempts to mimic the exriact look of the taylor kit. I tested the...

last year, i didn't have a FAS DPD test kit like the TF 100 mentioned. I couldnt tell how much chlorine i had but i knew i had a truck load of caclium Hypo in the pool. ( i wasnt as knowledgeable back then). I couldnt understand why the pool remained cloudy, despite high levels of FC, vacuuming...

for instance, i read somewhere ( i could give you the link) that below 7.5 pH, the Hypochlorite acid is less dominate but the Hypoclorous acid is. The latter is not as effective. At 7.5, both are present and equal in the water. also, wouldn't the pH lower, if more dirt ( bacteria laden dirt)...

well thats just it - is running a pool a strick chem science or a 'Cady Shack' way of running a pool lol ( a chocolate bar in the water looking like ***). i do like the science tho behind what you all mentioned that bleach is neutral. I do like what chem geek has said. I just feel its better to...

so if i shoot for 50 ppm CYA the pH, and the effect on CL's ability is lessened, then i dont have to worry if the pH is 7.4 or 7.7 or 7.8? or will i loose the oxidation power if it gets that high?

when the CYA is in the water it makes it the pH less effect on chlorine effectiveness ? the more CYA the less effect the pH has on chlorine effectiveness? if the the CL is higher such as 4 ~ 7 ppm, does it make measuring pH less accurate or invalid?

before i slammed i lowered the pH to the numbers you mentioned. when adding bleach is there a way to predetermine or calculate how much the pH will rise proportionally to FC's going up? I noticed the pool calculator mentions how much the pH will be lowered when using x amount of Trichlor or...

i also discovered how critical the pH levels can be... one website states the lower the pH the more the species of chlorine ( or part of the CL atom) is more prevalent and vice versa. The lower the pH the more oxidizing power , the higher the opposite is true. but ideally 7.5 makes the CL works...

yeah the TF-100 i bought works really well, in fact its testing the Slam process as we speak. its hard to get the kit to go thru customs tho. no one stocks a kit of this sort where we live. But i do swear by it

yeah thats right, borrowing a page from the slamming method, that is : less than 1 or 0 CL overnight loss. i should conduct that now and then or when things look suspicious. I'm yearning for the day when testing goes digital... All one would have to do is look at a gauge and go uh oh, time to...

yeah, your way of thinking is better compass heading i've heard so far.. I'm not saying the pool is right next to an open garbage pit but surprisingly, when you look at the surface of the water in such a way that it looks like the surface of a mirror, you CAN see just about anything that lands...

yea, i'm right in the middle of that process - Slamming. i'm actually nearing the end of it ( the 5 day). i just finished brushing the pool tonight with the pool light on. The light gives me a perfect method of knowing if any wispy dead algae is remaining to be oxidized. i WILL try the 50 ppm...

nascent algae is the more 'focus' of the topic because as soon as the water gets cloudy in the pool, it can be seen as a thin layer of wispy dust at the bottom of the pool when its swept up at night with the pool light on. then with a day or 2 more not doing anything about it, green algae...

obviously, an outdoor pool is subjected to more stuff ( algae, bacteria algae laden dirt, whatever) then an indoor pool with freshly washed and filtered air i.e aquatic centers. it has to be mathematical, relationship wise where more junk going in ( the aforementioned) will obviously require...

a side from chemgeeks comment...And i'm going to repeat the original question.. with dust, dirt, blowing into the pool, or being tracked in by bathers from a dirty deck. Does this put a 'load' on Cl ? What i'm saying is this: if my CYA is 30 , Cl 4 to 7, could the chlorine handle all that...

come and have a look at the pool where we used to have a palapa directly overhead and tell me that dirt demand doesn't have an effect on CL. So much Crud ( dirt ) was flacking off of it and falling into the pool we had to remove it, and i'm talking about, well, dirt! what else can i say

so the term dirt demand has no effect on chlorine is this what your trying to tell me? the dirt is clean bacteria (whatever is in there) free? lol

you didnt have to post the last comment, you had already told me cl doesn't erode or oxidize non-organics. Like i said in the last post, we have more than just 1 type of dirt lol

i understand that it wont oxidize minerals etc ... but what about the micro - organisms it carries, the dust isn't always mineral anyway, we have a lot of foliage that decays in our area that looks like dirt but its actually plants decomposing... this 'is' a big problem in our area as this stuff...