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Sorry to have missed your question. We guessed the igniter was likely fouling due to heat exchanger leakage, and decided to replace the entire unit. Not thrilled with 7-year lifespan, but we did it anyway. Went with the cupronickel option for hopefully better longevity. If you've replaced...

That was my fear as soon as I pulled the igniter. I suppose the leak starts to really manifest as the canister heats up, causing the subsequent cycles to be shorter than the first.

Today's diagnostics (focused on flame sensing)... Checked static resistance across several different ground points: bond wire, electrical ground wire, various points of frame, yellow grounded conductor in control box, flame holder nuts. All combinations measured down to meter resistance...

Thanks for this. Unfortunately, I don't have a manometer, so can't check pressure. Your link for flame sense problems is not working, but I'll do a specific search on that. I am aware that ground flakiness can lead to flame sense problems. The ground kit seems straightforward enough - seems...

Just opened up for the season this week, and diagnosing a heater problem. It's a Max-E-Therm 400 NG heater, about 7 years old. New igniter was installed last year. Controlled by IntelliCenter ("IC") via Fireman's Switch, and running on 120v. Heater panel is set to max temp (104F). IC is set...

Took me a while to figure out that my pool (built by previous owner) was fitted with the Mark Urban flow reversal system. It's got a 4-port valve (valve and parts long since NLA) that reverses the flow when heating. In this mode, flow returns through the main drain, and is drawn from the...

Ah, so the idea is to find the leak by treeangulation.

Hah! Yeah, it's basically a very lengthy planning process. I have a ton of conduit re-routing needed, as well as a need to bring in an extra sub-panel because of not enough breaker space in the IC. I have another thread from when I started this up, and I did review your thread closely back then.

When my existing system was upgraded, the ET Upgrade board went into the old Compool panel. There was no new panel.

Quick work! Well done.

It sure seems like a problem on the Compool controller board. I can't imagine the relay clicks with either no indicator light, or the quick on/off on the indicator being anything other than the board. Regarding the EasyTouch upgrade...we had that installed about 5-7 years ago, and it worked...

I think I get what you're saying now - to use the outermost central holes on the GFCI (ones normally used to secure a faceplate to the outlet), which are threaded. By "box", I thought you were referring to an electrical box mounted to the inside of the load center. The weatherproof cover does...

If I understand correctly, you're recommending to attach the outlet into an electrical box, and mount this assembly inside the load center with just the cover on the outside. Everything would then screw into the electrical box, sandwiching the load center side panel. I see how that would work...

Thanks. My existing Compool box has the outlet installed from the outside. Either way, I gotta get the screw holes punched out. May try a few more “taps” and then drill them out. Happy Thanksgiving all.

Not for any ongoing use. This is purely a utility outlet. All my pumps plug into a separate outlet tower that has deep in-use covers like the one on your pics.

To clarify, I’m mounting the outlet directly from the outside (as pictured) as one would normally do into an outdoor electrical box, with the weatherproof cover on top. Not mounting a box to the load center, but using the load center itself as the box. The GFCI body just about fit perfectly...

It's the punchout holes for the mounting screws that are around the outlet body. You can see the marks on the hole directly below the middle of the outlet (left side in the picture) where I've attempted to punch out the hole with a hammer and centerpunch. These are small holes, so there's...

I'm working on my IntelliCenter install. Today's task is mounting the GFCI utility outlet at the lower right of the load center. I was able to punch out the main rectangle knockout, although I unfortunately needed to widen it very slightly in three places in order for the outlet bracket and...

That could be it. I'll check if the relay is wired NC vs. NO (if that's configurable). I don't recall a software Setting that would configure the relay to operate opposite (off in SPA mode).

OK, found it, but I'm still left somewhat confused. The SPA relay is providing power to my SWG. Makes sense that it's only powered when the filter pump is running (recall that the SPA relay Line feed comes from the filter pump relay Load side). However, it doesn't make sense that the SPA...

Nope. Lights for pool and spa are on a separate relay and AUX circuit.

Well, we're closed down for the season. It can't be the heater since that runs pool and spa and is fully controlled by the fireman's loop. It's not the jets since they are on separate pumps, with separate wiring (I've confirmed that) via an AUX relay. We do not have a booster pump for the spa...

In the process of converting from my old EasyTouch Upgrade panel to IntelliCenter, I'm confused about the purpose of one of the relays. The relay is run from the SPA output (under the AUX and PUMP outputs on the controller board). The relay Line connection is jumpered from the Filter Pump...

It’s an EasyTouch panel - probably only about 5 years old. It was put in when the ET upgrade was done.