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It's been raining here so I have not had a chance to do those voltage readings. I got a new keypad but it did NOT solve the issue. I assume I should be measuring those voltages from the female side of the 6-pin connector, with it removed from the board - will report back when I have the...

Not those, these:

On the right side of the transformer there is a terminal block with red, black, red, and pink wires connected. If I put the black probe on the black terminal and check voltages at the other terminals, I get 24V but only in certain directions. Are those supposed to ne AC or DC at that location?

Apologies for the stupid question, but my electronics experience is almost entirely in DC circuits. When measuring the voltages on the right side of the transformer, I did notice that, with the multimeter set to AC voltage, for some of the connections I only got a voltage reading if I put the...

OK, I have power on the 24v loop, continuity on the sensor loop, and nothing on the GV loop (You say it turns on during the startup). Those all seem to be OK. Any other circuits I can check? Anything that would keep any display elements from coming on?

Right next to the 24v pin you circled, it said "6V" but I could not get any voltage reading at that pin. Is it supposed to be AC or DC?

Yeah, I am looking at replacing the board, which is better than replacing the whole unit. Not a board in great supply though. The whole bezel assembly with the board is available for around $650. Any other things to check?

Thanks AJW22! Yes, 24V - just checked. It was working well before. Should I try to clean those connections at the gas valve and elsewhere? I don't want to invest a lot in it, but I also don't want to spend $3000 to replace it.

Update, not that anyone appears to be following along! The 24V Pin on the control board (which is version 1134-500B fyi) does have power, but the 6V pin does not. The sensors all seem to have continuity. Solder connections on the board all look good, nothing obviously loose or broken. Still...

So I ordered a new keypad, but still don't know if that could be causing this. Any ideas anyone? Should I replace the control board itself? Transformer seems to be putting out ~24VAC on both sides, sensors have continuity. I am getting nothing on the digital display, and no mode light. I am...

What should the voltage be across the two terminals on the left? I get 24vAC. On the right I do get 24v between the pink and black wires and the "H" and black wires.

Some additional images as will probably be requested. Model is H250PED2

Good day! I opened my pool last week, got everything working including the heater (had to clean out the tubes before it would stay lit, but was working fine yesterday). I have an older (17? years) Hayward H250 propane heater. I went to turn it on this morning, as the pool is still pretty cold...

Thank you, that is very helpful. It is interesting, though - Hayward claims that the internal bypass keeps the water from circulating until it is 104 degrees, and when the pump is off. There's a sliding valve inside the header that is actuated by some sort of rod, but, honestly, I have never...

Hi All, I have a pool with a Hayward H250 Ed2 heater. It seems the heat exchanger (which I replaced only 3 years ago) is leaking again. I have a couple of questions. 1)If the heater is leaking when the pump is running but the heater is off, does that mean the internal bypass is broken, or is it...

I have a coverstar cover that suddenly is unspooling faster than it moves across the pool when I am closing the cover, causing the slack cover to get caught in the box. Is there a clutch on the cover spool that can slow the unspooling or apply some sort of resistance? As it draws the cover out...

Take a look at this blog post: http://blog.ingroundliners.com/?p=321 Pictures look stunningly similar to mine. I am having the liner replaced this fall. Here is what I have decided to do: 1. maintain my chlorine at 3ppm, no higher except during superchlorination. 2. maintain my pH as high as...

That's true, Vanya, thanks for pointing that out--I DON'T have any wrinkle problems on the walls of the pool. Would I see that with acid-based wrinkling? That would be a nice way to rule it out. I would think that expansion "buckling" would also show on the walls, though perhaps since there is...

Vanya, the wrinkles are hard ridges then? The ground seems completely flat under the pool (which makes me wonder about ground water, too--I would think that would deform the floor under the pool). The wrinkles in mine are sometimes hard, sometimes much softer; I've not been able to directly...

Well, free Cl is high when I shock, but comes down pretty quickly. I had been keeping my FC a little higher (~5ppm) because of the cya reading (~50). I still wonder though about the effects of the cover, which is closed whenever we are not using the pool) and the high amounts of chlorine I put...

Dave, the shading is fooling you, they are raised, and right now rather soft. My wife just found this article, which intrigues me as it makes a great deal of sense in my situation, if true. What do you make of it? http://www.aquabyte.com/starling/Swimmi ... rption.pdf Yet another thing to...

So here's what's happened since my earlier post. The wrinkles have worsened, though unexpectedly (if it was water infiltration) they seem to have gotten worse during a very dry period. They now are are on all the horizontal pool surfaces except the deepest bottom. All run primarilly across the...