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My siding appears to be pvc(or something not wood). It is held together with strips of osb on each section. Some of it has gotten rotten and some the glue has detached from the siding. I plan on repairing the frame and repainting the siding. My first question is if I should do framing strips...

I have concerns about keeping the cover tight. That’s a lot of pressure on the pool frame and without 1/3 of the water it’s not near as strong. I used 2x6’s screwed to each other around the perimeter, that worked wore the tarp hard. The 2x6’s were installed during the wind blowing, was an idea...

Tried that with like a years worth. They eventually flip over the side. 30 mile an hour winds with no wind break are rough.

Forgot to mention, I did that. It had no change. I think if I were to do it again it would need wrapped all the way to the bottom.

You would think that but that’s not how that works. Water on water is effectively one body. If there’s a tarp in between you can raise the tarp up on one side, this causes the water on the tarp to go to the other side and the water under the tarp to shift towards the side you’re raising. I’m...

Every year I struggle with the winter cover. Not the installation but the winds afterwards. I live in the country with fields all around. Filling with water above the cover doesnt work as the water will shift towards the direction of wind and the cover will still raise on the other side. It’s...

Thank you! That should really cut down on the chlorine use!

So my cover came off my above ground pool through winter due to high winds. Instead of fighting it I just left it. I opened the pool and filled it the rest of the way up then started slamming. I have 30CYA so I am doing 12 ppm. Occasionally adjusting ph down to 7 as it rises. I've got it to...

Keep in mind 7.2-7.8 is all a good working range.

Also what’s your ta? you might need to shock the bromine by raising it above 10ppm. Bromine always seems to smell a little bit but if in doubt dump in bleach or the dichlor to get it up to 10 and let it run down on its own.

I think you generally want two 2 hours filter cycles a day. How low is your ph going?

I may be wrong but I feel like your liner is like a foot too big. Is it possible you put the top rails of the pool in the wrong holes in the plate and it is pushing the top of the pool in? Are you sure it’s sitting flat along the sides around the rest of the pool?

Just an idea what if you ran it dry, will it still shut off? My thought is what if the impeller is wrong and WAY oversized.

Yep keep on it. It will clear up quick.

Yeah you will have that. The cloudyness is organics that haven’t died. Keep your bromine up and it will go away. Just like a pool you just need to keep it up for a while. Its not so much about shocking ad providing constant sanitizer. The bromine will burn out most detergents but not all the...

Never mind, I miss read your post! You’ve got it right.

Bleach is usually 6% or less sodium hypochlorite. Pool chlorine is usually 10-12.5%sodium hypochlorite. Make sure you put the right percentage of the product you are using.

Also, congratulations! Good job on the whole thing, I’m sure the family will love it.

Ozone is still basically a sales thing. Mine has it too. You would need to take the side panel off and see if the light is even working. It draws air past the ozone light and sucks it into the tub. Just because you have bubbles doesn’t mean that the ozone works. Plus it’s not considered a fast...

See if ph wants to rise with some use. If it does work on lowering ta down to 50. It might be happy where you have it now though.

Technically everything is good for use now. Ph is good ta is close. Ch is just a quality thing. Sanitizer is good! Keeping ta down helps keep ph from raising too much. Any ph from 7-7.8 is fine. Once you get ph to stabilize its alright if it’s up in the high 7’s.

Yes 3 is just a reference number. Get the bromine to around 10 for now since the water hasn’t been disinfected. If you way over shoot hold off a day on the floater. No sense adding even more. When you put the floater in just check your bromine level and check it again the next day. Ideally you...

Yes try 1 tbsp of shock and circulate for a couple minutes and check. You shouldn’tput the cover on when the bromine is over 10, but you can let it run for a little while to burn off some. I’m not going to lie, I’ve put my cover in when I was over 15 ppm because I screwed up how much I added...

Yeah you can put them in there but I would add 1tbsp of that shock first and see what the level is. Then add the floater at like level 3

You can use that for now. Try 1 tbsp. I think I used two once when I had that and it was pretty high

That’s pretty good! Drop ph to like 7.4 to lower ta a tiny bit more. Go ahead and put the sodium bromide in and circulate for like 15 minutes! Then add like 2 ounces of 10-12.5% bleach and see where that puts you

Essentially yes. The only "needed" extra chemical is a thing of sodium bromide for use during setup of the water. You don't need to use a floater with bromine tabs, it is just convenient if you can't trust the spouse or children to check sanitizer level after use. The bromine tabs are...

Bromine is ph stable in to the low 8.0 ph's which gives more protection since ph rise is very common given the aggressive turnover and aeration when in use. Chlorine loses its efficiency in the high ph ranges increasing the chance of infection. Combined bromine or broamines are still an...

Bromine isn’t complicated. It is dosed with chlorine just like a chlorine spa. The only downside is no uv stabilization but that doesn’t matter much with a covered spa.

Also I did my stuff my self and made the choices on how I was doing it. Romex nm-b is assumed to be thwn wire but when you strip the jacket off there’s no individual wire ratings on it which makes it against code to do this way. I thought about doing that but I ended up finding a good deal on...