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Everything seems more expensive this year. I’m glad I made the switch to a SWG last year. No I just need LC for closing and water temp are too low and CH is already in target (otherwise I use cal-hypo).

I wasn’t even considering “saving money” on reagents… I was thinking in the lines of… 1 - Throwing away somethig that still looks good… there is already way too much waste around us. 2 - In an emergency (let’s say a shortage of reagents)…. knowing the limits of old reagents can be the difference...

I regreat beliving in the “sizing” of equipment when I bought mine. Now I know better, but now it is too late. I deeply regret getting a single speed pump. It wasn’t a big deal before I decided to get an SWG. Now the math to replace a fully functional single speed pump with a variable speed...

Some localities (counties and municipalities) have their our build code amendments, but that kind of thing usually falls under the "mood" of the inspector. NEC is clear that sch 40 can be buried and sch 80 should be required where physical damage is likely. But fighting the inspector may be more...

Walmart usually has reasonable prices and keeps stock indoors. Seems Home Depot, Ace and similar stores went nuts this year.

I used to use a test my FC every other day when I was using LC. That burns thru FAS-DPD reagents pretty quickly. After switching to SWG I test every other day with the OTO to ensure I'm above 5ppm and only use FAS-DPD once a week (or before and after heavy use) to ensure I don't overshoot the...

This is the panel I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7N6 I wish it was a little bigger, but it did the job. This is not the only outdoors panel out there. BTW, getting the 35A and 20A GFCI breakers for it wasn't the easiest thing in the world as they were out of stock in most...

Trick questions there... I ran a 6/3 romex 75ft inside the basement and thru the basement wall to an external sub-panel and from the sub-panel I ran 5ft 4x8AWG THHN to my 220V 35A heat pump, 7 ft 3x10AWG THHN to a GE 40A Z-Wave Outdoor Switch and another 4ft to the 120V 1.5HP 12A single speed...

I'm in the same boat... my "local" pool store is a Leslie's...

I just got new reagents for my test kit and decided to compare with the old reagents I was about to throw out.... ~2 Years Old Reagents (23 months) FC: 15 CC: ~0.5 CYA: - (Out of R-0013) pH: 7.5 TA: 90 CH: 175 ~2 Year Old Reagents (22 months - Never used) FC: 14 CC: ~0.5 1 Year Old Reagents...

Also, using a non-mesh cover will reduce significantly the chlorine usage. One thing that helped a lot before the SWG was to time how long would take to fill my measuring bucket (using a LC jug filled with water) and after some practice transfer that to timing rather then measuring the LC to...

Since @Newdude was faster than me I will just point out he didn't mention the use of a SWG to avoid dosing LC during swim season (you would still need LC for opening and closing).

No Menards around here… This weekend I saw 12.5% 4 gal $19.99 at BJs. You may want to check Ocean Job Lots and Ace. The reason I went with a SWG was to avoid that maddening search for LC.

When I bought my house there were some carpeting bees on the wall of the master bedroom… we dealt with the bees long ago, but we never patched the holes. Last year some yellow jackets moved in… those things do t eat wood, but they do eat drywall… I took care of it, but my hand was hurting for...

What the retaining wall will do is prevent the soil from washing out from below the pool. It won’t help with lose dirt settling. The question you should ask yourself is how comfortable do you feel about the filled area. We can give you some advice and share some concerns, but the ultimate...

Check CYA first. You can’t really SLAM without knowing your CYA. If you assume a CYA way above your actual CYA you can bleach your liner. If you assume one way below your actual level then you will be wasting chlorine without effectively killing whatever is lurking on your water. Once you know...

Does the excavator contractually guarantee that? If wasn’t for the clay filling I wouldn’t be much concerned (stone dust, that is still not recommended, would do much better). The excavator may be right that it may be unlikely to fail. But if it does fail you are going to have 15K gallons of...

Hey @Nofronts, even though I believe @Newdude ’s math is not correct I share his concern. If your pool wasn’t already fully assembled with liner and water my suggestion would have been to excavate a little more and have the whole pool on undisturbed soil. Since the pool is already with some...

Yes. As long as CH is not too high you can use Cal-Hypo for regular chlorination. Get a bucket with water and dissolve the cal-hypo in the bucket before dosing it in front to the return. (Always add chemicals to water and never add water to chemicals). By dissolving it first you should be able...

Not necessarily. Based on the picture the slope seems to be less than 30 degrees, so the whole pressure would be absorbed by the soil. But that soil must remain in place. But to your point something like this is possible (as long as you have an engineer)

Depends on what you mean by situation… I’m no soil engineer… so talking by experience… my soil is clay and I have a similar slope… under heavy (2+ inches per hour) rain it washes away considerably. That can be mitigated by some drainage above the pool. From the research I did when I built my...

The issue with fill is it may compress differently than the undisturbed soil. Since it is fully assembled you should keep an eye on that side for the first few years. Add about a cup of bleach each evening and mix the best you can with a broom to avoid premature algae. Also the liner should not...

One other comments… On the side that is semi inground… it seems the top of the wall is too close to the ground. Are you planning to fence out the pool? The way it is it may be a code violation (and a huge liability).

The idea is a wall to keep the dirt currently supporting the pool in place. A wall to truly support a pool requires an engineer. Just to confirm… is all the pool over undisturbed soil (no fills)? BTW, it may be just the picture, but on you first picture the wall doesn’t look very level and one...

That is a bit too close. If any soil washes away with heavy rain you risk the integrity of the wall support. I would consider building a small retaining wall to prevent any soil from washing away.

Unfortunately the “free” pool store water testing is unlikely to be reliable (example: Pool Store Experiment Water Samples) and will invariably lead to expensive purchase of items you either don’t need or will outright do more harm than good. As an example of that harm is the suggests to use...

How is the water looking? Is it crystal clear? 1ppm of CC indicates there is still some stuff in the water. So keep going. You don’t want to end prematurely and risk another algae bloom, do you? You are done when: CC is 0.5 or lower; You pass an ; And the water is clear.

How did you get 32 CYA? You can’t read between the lines. The scale is not linear. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=CYA_Testing