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I tried dealing direct with Maytronics at first, but they wanted me to ship the robot to them. That was a no-go for me, so I worked with the dealer I had purchased it from. That worked well because they let me take the robot home to keep using him while we were waiting on parts, which took a while.

True enough! I was just hoping to understand the principals at play a little better before I started down the rabbit hole. I do not currently have one since, other than the pool, you would never know there was soluble iron in the water. Our current whole-home filtration system is perfect...

Maytronics honored the warranty and sent a new power supply. That didn't resolve the issue so they swapped out the motor. That did the trick and my robot is back in business.

So my line of thinking has merit? I'd want one for all 4 returns, and those things are expensive just to run an experiment. Do we think the 1 micron mesh is necessary or would a cheaper bag around 250 micron be sufficient? Never tried to catch iron before, but I'd assume the bag just needs to...

Hi all, I believe I have an iron issue. Water starts to take on a slight green tint if my FC drifts up and I've had iron staining in the past when filling from my well. I've got a decent filter on the fill water now, but I'm sure soluble iron is still getting through. Anyway, with a SWG the...

For anyone who is interested, I took everything to my local dealer and they ran a few tests. Couldn't find anything obvious in the psu or the robot, but didn't have a spare cable handy to swap out to see if the cable was bad. So they had to get one from the manufacturer who is, apparently, very...

Maytronics has so far replied with the ever helpful "have you tried turning it off and back on again yet?"

The app seems to work fine as I can connect, change the cleaning mode, and start a job... It's just that when the job starts, I get this... Now, while this is shown on the app, the robot is happily cleaning away like he's supposed to. And, if I click "STOP" on the app, he does stop. It...

So I shouldn't be running my robot right now then, eh? I mean... he's only got another 10 minutes to go on his 2 hour cycle. I'm assuming this would be inside the robot that you are talking about? If that's the case then I'm looking at a warranty claim it seems.

Getting 0 replies here on TFP is concerning... I've hit a unique issue which probably means parts replacement. I did send a note off to dolphin support through the phone app yesterday, hope to hear something back soon.

So, started my Active 30 this morning from my phone. About the time it started the self-test, I got an error in the app stating the robot is not responding and asking me to check the blue cable. The little guy appears to be working fine... doing his thing right now, cleaning away. It just...

Thanks everyone!

Might seem a silly question, but does everyone re-plug their DE filters after they drain them? I have visions of local field mice making a home in there over the winter if I don't.

So, after finally taking my light off for the first time to clean the niche I've discovered a few things. 1. It's surprisingly easier to remove then I thought it would be. One screw. 2. Two screws to remove the trim ring from the light, which I'm glad I did because there was gunk behind it...

Because this is bothering me, I've shot an email off to Hayward asking this very question... is just having water in the niche sufficient such that I can gasket the light. It will be interesting to see if they give a response beyond "modification nulls warranty."

I'd imagine the light housing and retainer ring would be the largest surface area between front and back of the light, no? What little open exposure there is for water to move between has to be negligible I'd think. But, I'm no thermal expert either. Perhaps a thermal dabbler? :LOL:

So here is an interesting question... if the light (Hayward ColorLogic 4 in my case) is tight enough to prevent decent water circulation how does it dissipate heat from the back? I have a hard time imagining temperature differential would create enough movement to push the hot water out the top...

OK... so next step is to invent a never-leak pool design. I think it might involve a lot of dirt and planting grass. ;) That's pretty cool... eliminate the problem. (y) Unless you already have a niche of course...

Bah... that all make sense, but seems like such a stupid self-created problem. Can't have it sealed or else the light will get too hot and burn out, but it isn't open enough to allow for good circulation. Someone should invent a light niche that has vents around it and can be hooked to a...

OK, so lived experience trumps my assumptions. I'll be scrubbing my light niche today. But... how does it grow back there? Is the assumption that the light doesn't fit tight enough to block the light and enough sun gets through to allow it to grow? If this is the case... would fabricating a...

I had to drain my pool this past Monday so the PB could fix a spot under the liner where, apparently, something just behind the dig-out had started to cave in. Some bad fill from the original development perhaps. Regardless, I got a brand-new 19k gallons of water trucked in on Tuesday. I...

That seems... pretty solid. I may hold off on the rivets for now on the assumption that I'm going to want to replace that collar with something a little fancier in the near future. I'm assuming mortar won't adhere to the collar itself?

Oh, on another note, I had a question about securing skimmer collars at the right height. I'm not sure what I was thinking (meaning that I wasn't thinking) but I posted that questions in a different forum instead of asking it here in my build thread where it would have gotten more eyeballs...

They poured a concrete collar around the pool, so those coping pavers are sitting directly on a pretty secure mortar base. Behind the collar they used crushed fill and then sand. We've been keeping an eye on this and it looks like the crumbling has stopped... it was only the outer layer that had...

No clue what model, but it looks like this... The collar adjusts height to match the level of the deck, but I'm not sure what the best way is to "lock it in place" at that height. It was suggested by someone to put a bead of silicone on the collar and push it into place which might work...

Hey, might be a silly question... but how does everyone secure the skimmer collar at the right height so it doesn't "sink" below the deck level when someone steps on it? I think someone recommended silicone but wasn't sure if that was the best way.